A Complete Course in Dressmaking/Lesson 2/Simple finishes for edges

by Isabel De Nyse Conover

SIMPLE FINISHES FOR EDGES

The most simple edges are the narrow hem, binding, piping, facing an edge with tape, finishing an edge with woven banding and with rickrack braid.

Narrow Hem.—A narrow hem is one of the very easiest ways of finishing an edge. It is used to finish the sides and strings of aprons, armholes of waist linings and sometimes for hemming collars and cuffs. It is practical for anything which requires finishing in a neat, flat, inconspicuous manner.

You will recall in Lesson I that I explained just how to turn a narrow hem with the sewing machine attachment and it may be helpful to you to read that description over again carefully.

If you are not using the attachment, first
Fig. 1. Folding the edge for a narrow
hem turn off the sixteenth of an inch along the edge, creasing the material between the fingers as in Fig. 1, and then turn in an eighth of an inch. Press the edge with a hot iron.

A hem that is pressed is much easier to stitch than one that is roughly and irregularly creased. You cannot expect to have a neat finish if the edges are not neatly and accurately pressed before you stitch. Stitch the hem as in Fig. 2.

Cutting True Bias.—Fold the material diagonally, bringing the crosswise thread to a lengthwise thread. Then, cut along the diagonal line. (See Fig. 3.) Join the bias strips in a continuous piece as in Fig. 4.

Fig. 2. A narrow hem turned and stitched		Fig. 3. The material folded and marked for bias strips for binding or piping

Cut off portion of seam which extends beyond strip as indicated by dotted lines.

Binding—The use of bindings adds very much to an apron or house dress, as the contrasting material brings out the color and design of the garment and also emphasizes the lines.
Fig. 4. Make an open seam
in joining the bias folds The contrasted binding of the long lines of an apron or house dress will bring out an effect of slimness, whereas binding all the crossing lines such as pockets, belts and hems at the lower edge and around the neck will serve to shorten the appearance of the wearer.

The binding to be effective should not only be of different color, design or material, but also of goods of a firm texture and yet not bulky. It is easier to round off a corner than to turn at right angles and bind a square corner. Binding is very quickly and neatly done with a binding attachment. (See Lesson I.)

To do binding by hand, as a dressmaker would say, and which means without an attachment, lay

Fig. 5. The first stitching in joining a bias binding to the edge

the binding along the edge of the material with the right side of the binding next to the right side of the goods. (See Fig. 5.) Stitch along the edge, running the stitching one quarter of an inch from the edge.

Fold the binding onto the wrong side of the material. (See Fig. 6.) Turn under the free edge of the binding one-fourth of an inch and stitch the binding flat to the material. (See Fig. 7.)

If you turn the binding on the wrong side of the garment so that the edge comes below the edge of the fold on the right side of the garment, and then stitch from the right side of the garment just below the binding, the

Fig. 6. The binding turned the first time

stitching will hardly show. (See Fig. 8.) If you want a very nice hand finish, fell the fold into place on the wrong side.

Edges which are to be bound should have the seam allowance cut off. Binding neither adds to nor takes away from the size of the garment.

Checked gingham makes a very delightful finish. An apron of barred white muslin can be much enhanced by a binding of delicate blue and white check. The one-color chambrays, in the lovely gray blues, rose and other tones, are so attractive when edged with checks. White and even deeper shades of the same material are effective in the check. A touch of scarlet is sometimes desirable. A smart little percale of white dotted with dark

Fig. 7. The binding turned onto the wrong side and stitched

blue and bound with cherry makes a charming and unique combination.

Pipings.—Pipings are used in much the same places as binding. As a rule, they are much narrower and can also be used on woolen materials, as on cotton. They serve to brighten up garments which would be too dull and uninteresting if made all of one tone and material. Pipings are used not only for edges, but where the material joins together, such as waist and skirt yokes, deep bands on skirts and any place where it is desirable to emphasize the joining.

Pipings should be of firm material, which is easier to handle and which will retain its shape while stitching. They are cut on the bias in one and one-quarter inches width. As they are very narrow when finished they may be of a gay and vivid material. Brilliant

Fig. 8. If the stitching is placed just below the binding on the right side of the garment it will hardly show

red may pipe the edge of a blue chambray or striking green outline the edge of a gay figured chintz or cretonne with a colored background. Colored pipings may be used most effectively on muslins and organdies, especially the figured ones, and when edging an apron the color can be introduced in wider width on the ends of the strings.

If the edge of the garment is to be piped, fold over one edge of piping a quarter of an inch and press. Turn back the other edge of the piping an eighth of an inch and stitch near this edge. (See Fig. 9.) Turn under the edge

Fig. 9. The bias fold turned and stitch for a piping

to be piped a seam’s width and press. Place the piping under this edge with the edge of

Fig. 10. The piping pinned in place ​		Fig. 11. As the piping looks on the right side of the garment when stitched in place

the piping extending one-eighth of an inch beyond the piece. (See Fig. 10.) Stitch from the right side of the garment near the edge. Fig. 11 shows how the piping looks on the right side of the garment.

Facings.—Another way to introduce novelty and color into these delightful aprons and frocks is the use of facings in varying widths. These are often used to finish the neck and sleeves of house dresses. The width is entirely a matter of choice, but facings are usually much wider than bindings and pipings.

Fig. 12. The first stitching in facing an edge

Facings are used very often with only a small portion visible on the exterior and the wider portion beneath only revealed by the movements of the wearer. This is much employed on dark blue and black garments in the facing of lower hems, of the edge of the bell-shaped sleeve and the elongated panels at either side.

While a pretty width is one inch wide, which means cutting the material one and three-quarters wide, it may be much wider even for aprons. For instance, in an apron of muslin of the unbleached type with the creamy tone but somewhat finer texture, wide bands of flowered cretonne in lovely colors were so

Fig. 13. The facing turned onto the wrong side of the garment and stitched in place

wide that the straps over the shoulders were entirely of the cretonne and only a little of the muslin showed above the band at the bottom.

To face an edge lay the facing on the wrong side of the goods along the edge as shown in Fig. 12. Turn it onto the right side and fold under the edge and stitch as in Fig. 13.

Finishing the Edge with Tape.—As a change from the made edgings, cotton tape about three-quarters of an inch wide makes an inexpensive finish for a house dress, apron or child’s frock.

This tape can be bought at the notion counter of any department store in white,
Fig. 14. Tape placed on the right side of the goods and stiched the first time red and other colors, and is especially useful when the material of the article in making is not expensive enough to warrant the expenditure of much time. In fact, the cotton tape is one of the best “hurry up” edges you can use. You would naturally combine it with materials of firmer and heavier texture than the more dainty weaves.

Lay the tape on the right side of the garment along the edge, letting it extend a quarter of an inch beyond the edge. Stitch a seam’s width back from the edge of the garment as shown in Fig. 14. Turn the tape onto the wrong side and stitch a second time from the right side of the goods as in Fig. 15.

Fig. 15. The tape turned onto the wrong side of the goods and stitched the second time

Finishing the Edge with Woven Bandings.—The woven bandings in white with floral or other designs in color or with a colored ground with contrasting motives are most charming and lend distinction to otherwise plain clothes. They are suitable for house dresses, simple tub frocks, little children’s clothes, and even washable blouses and laundry bags, as well as the ever-present apron.

Here is a vast field for the display of exquisite taste which may result in a delicious rose design on a white ground edging with charm a delicate blue chambray or smart black and white appearing with green or rose colored materials. Of course, a banding with a design is only suitable combined with a plain material or with one which has the design so subdued and interwoven with the background that it has a neutral all-over effect.

Fig. 16. Finishing an edge with embroidered banding

To finish the edge with woven banding, cut off the seam allowance at the edge except an
Fig. 17. The banding turned onto the right side and stitched the second time eighth of an inch. Lay the banding on the wrong side of the garment, allowing the edge of the banding to lap about one-eighth inch over the edge of the garment and stitch as shown in Fig. 16. Turn the banding onto the right side of the goods and stitch a second time as shown in Fig. 17.

Finishing the Edge with Rickrack Braid.—All the delightfully quaint old-fashioned finishings are coming into style again and one wonders where they are most charming—whether they appear prettiest on the wee clothes or on the grown-up house gowns and protecting aprons. Rickrack ranks with the prettiest pipings and bindings and also with the cotton tape for quickness of application. It is seen not only on the sleeves, necks, belts and pockets, but on fronts and backs—in fact, wherever a band of material has been applied.
Where the rickrack braid finishes an edge it is placed under the edge of the material with only half of it showing. (See Fig. 18.) To do this, place the braid on the right side of the goods near the edge and stitch through the center of the braid. (See Fig. 19.) Then turn it onto the wrong side, press the edge and stitch.

Fig. 18. An edge finished with rickrack braid		Fig. 19. The braid placed for the first stitching

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