Charleston: Its Rise and Decline/Chapter 7
Chapter VII.
THE NILE RIVER.
THIS is a small river entering the sea between Point Robertson to the south, and Little Beach to the north, with a tidal basin about half-a-mile from its mouth. This basin, as stated in another chapter, was regularly used by small steamers after Constant Bay was abandoned, and was provided with a wharf for their mooring and working.
Its Maori name was Ngawaitakere, as shown on the Rev. R. Taylor’s map of 1854. The meaning of the word, or the reason for bestowing it, cannot be stated with any authority, though many conjectures have been made, one of which is that it should have a final i, thus Waitakerei or Wai Takerei, to commemorate Takerei, one of the leaders of the Maori invasion of the South-West Coast about 1833. Nga is merely the plural form of the definite article te (the).
In a sketch plan of the Nelson Province compiled in 1871, and now held by the Department of Internal Affairs, this stream is shown as Browning River, possibly in honour of Mr. John S. Browning who was later (12th May, 1876) Chief Provincial Surveyor. On more recent maps it is shown as Waitakere, or as Nile River. Apparently the Maori name was too great a mouthful for the pakeha, so the name Nile was universally adopted; though why that name, cannot be explained. One of the various conjectures is that the early arrivals found gold in the stream, as Pharaoh’s daughter found Moses in the ancient river. Another is that the stream had been spoken of to these first-comers as “the river,” a term applied to the Nile in the Book of Exodus and elsewhere in the Bible. Neither is either appealing or convincing.
Just above this basin was the Nile bridge, a pile logbridge built in 1866-1867, swept away by a flood in 1874, rebuilt as a suspension bridge in 1875, and now replaced by a modern reinforced-concrete structure of five spans of forty feet each, on a site six chains further up the river, the road having been straightened to approach it, at both ends.
For a period of about a year between the destruction of the pile bridge and the opening of the suspension bridge, a boat-ferry from the old wharf (on the Charleston side of the river) and Small’s Beach (a sand-spit in the basin) operated; but old hands tell that the erection of a “Bosun’s Chair” was discussed, such as existed at Fox River and at Teremakau. These contrivances are box affairs on pulley ropes, suspended high above the stream. In this the passenger sits or huddles, and propels himself across by pulling on a second cable. He needs to be sober, or comparatively sober. It is related that one not quite so, stopped when half-way across Kumara’s River, fell asleep, remained all night in a gorge wind almost as keen as Greymouth’s “barber,” spent some time in hospital, and earned the soubriquet of “The Comet.”
The natural beauty of the lower reaches of the Nile was marred by the discoloration and pollution of its water by the quantity of tailings swept into it from the Charleston workings, and by the felling of the forest that had lined its banks; but in its upper part were many scenes to enchant the eye, much scenic loveliness, the clear stream winding about through bush-clad flats and narrow gorges.
In 1867 Mr. Charles Nees was authorised to construct a tramline from the Nile bridge to Darkie’s Terrace Road, the terminus being just behind the Camp Reserve, where a site for a “Station” was granted. This tramway was also used by the Nile Steam Sawmill Company to convey logs to its mill behind the Nile Hotel. It was later extended across the bridge and ran along the northern bank of the river to the timberlands beyond a small creek, then unnamed, but later known as Drennan’s Creek, wherein boys loved to angle for minnows and native trout. This wooden-railed tramway extension was through virgin bush, a delightful stroll, a lovers’ walk. It is still shown on maps, but as “a track.” Not many couples are now within reach of it, to walk arm in arm along its shaded way, or to arrange picnic parties by its creek side.
The land around Charleston was in “Square 137” of the Nelson Land District; that portion between the bridge and Drennan’s Creek being Sections 41 and 19, held originally by Messrs. Beckle & Marris, of the Nile Steam Sawmill. On 1st October, 1888, a Crown grant of No. 41 was made to Barclay Mouat, and on 16th August, 1880, a grant of No. 19 was made to T. G. Macarthy. The present owner is R. C. J. Powell. Beyond the creek were Sections No. 20 of 9 acres, No. 40 of 17 acres, No. 23 of 30 acres, and No. 31 of 106 acres. These, with Nos. 41 and 19, carried heavy timber, and when cleared of this were occupied as primitive cattle-runs or farms.
The first section to be brought under cultivation was No. 20, held originally by Absolom Brook; then followed Nos. 40 and 23.
The original owner of No. 31 was Edward Drennan; of No. 40, Coghlin, “The Irish Piper”; and of No. 23 Con. Cronin, later the discoverer of Croninville. These four sections (31, 40, 23 and 20) were eventually purchased by Drennan, who combined them into one farm, protected them from erosion by building groins in the river, and brought them into good bearing. Crown grants were made to him: Of No. 23 on 1st April, 1886, of No. 40 on 6th April, 1887, of No. 31 on 13th December, 1889, of No. 20 on 25th June, 1889. The present owners of these four sections are Messrs. James and George Morris.
On the south bank of the river, just above the confluence of Darkie’s Creek and the Nile, was Nile Farm, established by Thomas A. Poole about 1869, on Section No. 14, of 50 acres. It was subsequently acquired by Jonathan Harle and secured to him by Crown Grant on 1st October, 1883. Later occupants were Thomas Brougham, and William Hill, coach proprietor. It is now owned by R. C. J. Powell.
These farms on the Nile, together with John Warne’s behind St. Patrick’s School, were Charleston’s only local supplies of dairy and garden produce in its busy days, but in 1867 Mr. John Lewis, of the Pioneer Dairy, on Brighton Road, had a milk-depot “opposite the Camp”; and Messrs. Lehan and O’Brien had another, but the sites are unknown. An advertisement in June, 1868, notified that Samuel Somerville had established a market garden “on Darkie’s Terrace Road, between the hospital and the slaughterhouse.”
On a portion of the Nile Farm there was established in 1912, a butter factory, but it was short-lived, having been closed about 1915.
Warne’s Farm was on rural sections (not town sections) Nos. 8 (24 acres) and 11 (20 acres) of Square 137, which were Crown Grants made to him on 12th July, 1878, but he had occupied them before that date. The present owners are Elizabeth and Euphemia Warne, executrices for John Warne.
Under what rights the various rural sections were held before being given title by Crown Grants, cannot be stated; but probably as Agricultural Leases granted by the Warden. Mr. Broad records having granted a number in 1869. The Nile Farm was noted for its flower-beds, which attracted many visitors. Poole imported many kinds of plants, and made a hobby of their cultivation, taking pride in having the only flower-garden in the district. He also had the distinction of growing the first blackberry bush in those parts, a plant that is now the pest of the whole Coast.
Other occupiers of land on the south side of the river were William Dickson, Section No. 3, Enright, Section No. 30, and McKittrick, Section No. 27 (part).
About the Nile banks were numerous beauty spots beloved of many in the old days, and to which the thoughts of such must revert when memory’s lamp is lit during quiet hours.
On the south side of the river, near to the end of the bridge, stood the Nile Hotel, and a quarter of a mile further up was Darkie’s Creek which emptied its turbid waters into the river, carrying in a few years thousands of tons of tailings from the batteries on the Back Lead, and from sluices on the flats, resulting in the silting-up of the basin.
In Darkie’s Creek were set at short intervals catchment tables to collect the gold from the waste of the various workings that used it as a sludge channel; those holding the right to do this, thus harvested where they had not sown, a 
Cottage at right, occupied by William Mouat, was site of Hall’s Racecourse Hotel.
From left—Magnus Johnson, John Madden, James Mouat, J, R. Mouat, Gilbert Harper, James Harper.
Left—William Harper. Right—John Mouat.
Showing the tramway over the bridge (illegible text) thence to the right, up the north bank of the river.
Foreground―The first wharf. At left―Road to Addison’s Flat and Westport.
From this road was the branch road to Nine-mile Beach.
At confluence of Nile River and Drennan’s Creek.
The upper one is the new concrete bridge, built 1940.
At left―The road to Nine-mile Beach.
Foreground―Little Beach. Background—Point Robertson.
Mr. and Mrs. T. A. Poole at door, Mrs. Poole, Senior, at end of veranda. Mr. Thos. Perry digging.
Note the rata vines enveloping and destroying trees.
The creek was called Darkie’s because its source was about Darkie’s Terrace, the picturesque wooded height that formed the eastern background of Charleston, and beyond which rose the snow-clad Paparoa Mountains, about ten miles from the sea. The reason for the name of the terrace cannot be ascertained, but probably a coloured man first found gold there—perhaps Addison.
The upper portion of the Nile Farm was known as The Picnic Ground, and a more charming glade could hardly be imagined. Close by, the stream rippled over a shallow rapid, through a boulder-strewn bed. A small flat provided an arena for the athletic events that were always a feature of public picnics. From this flat was a sloping bank that served as a grandstand, and whereon spectators sat or reclined beneath canopies of the boughs of great trees that had seen centuries come and go. Beyond this grandstand-bank were booths, stalls, and plank-seats, erected in the forest shade. Access to the ground was by a road, or rather a track, from Darkie’s Terrace Road, and across Darkie’s Creek, by a crude unrailed log-bridge that most people of to-day would look at twice before venturing upon. These meetings were not annual events, but all Charleston and his wife attended them; age endeavoured to cast aside the mantle of years, and youth was youth, although, to quote an old-timer, “all that tittered was not bold.”
Possibly it was here that Niho and Takerei found the easiest ford across the Nile, and the most open path, when upon their great trek about 1833, travelling this gully and crossing the site of Darkie’s Terrace Road and the pakihi, on their way south.
Picnics were usually on St. Patrick’s Day, the festal day of the Coast, which day always ended with a grand ball at which youths, willy nilly, sported white gloves, and maidens strove to out-frill each other; yet, to again quote an old-timer, “it was not the dress that counted, but what was in it”; many a print frock was more observed than silken array. Old hands say that the costumes adorning some of the Casino girls met with scanty approval from staid matrons, because leaving the wearers “about half-way out.” A reporter described one such dress as “a creation,” explaining that “a promising lode ran from neck to middle spine, and then petered out.” Its wearer when told that if her mother could see her in it, she would turn in her grave replied sweetly that “the dear would probably be glad to do so, after having lain so long in one position.”
The Charleston Herald stated in 1884 that in that year Charleston, for the first time, failed to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, and quoted the fact as an indication of how dead the town had become.