Encyclopædia Britannica, Ninth Edition/Albania (1.)

ALBANIA, a country of considerable extent, which though frequently ruled by turbulent and nearly independent chiefs, ranks as one of the provinces of the Turkish empire. The tract of land to which this name is now applied extends from 39° to 43° N. lat., and from 18° 24′ to 21° 48′ E. long.; from the Gulf of Cattaro in the north to the Gulf of Arta in the south, and from the coast of the Adriatic Sea and Ionian Sea on the west to an irregular ill-defined line inland towards the east, roughly indicated in its northern part by the Tchar Dagh, the ancient Scardus, a part of the Hæmus or Balkan range, and southwards by the Pindus chain, or rather the portions of it now called the mountains of Sagori, Metzovo, and Suli. Within these limits is included the ancient Epirus, corresponding to the southern part of the country now comprehended under the general name of Albania, and divided from Albania, properly so called, by the river Voyutza or Viosa, which enters the Adriatic a few miles north of Avlona. Albania, therefore, is bounded on the N. by Dalmatia, Montenegro (from which it is separated by the river Moroka), and Bosnia; on the E. by Servia and the Turkish province of Rum-ili, in which Macedonia, or the greater part of it, is included; and on the S. by Hellas or Northern Greece, which was the Turkish province of Livadia before Greece regained its independence, and from which it is separated by the river Garla or Suli. The superficial area of Albania is estimated at about 18,944 square miles, and it has a coast-line of about 280 miles from north to south, without reckoning indentations, &c. It nowhere extends more than 100 miles from the sea, and in the southern part not more than 30 miles.

According to the most recent division of the Turkish empire into eyalets, sanjaks, and livas, Albania is comprehended in three eyalets, namely, Uskub or Uskup in the north; Roumelia, which also includes part of Macedonia, in the centre; and Yania, corresponding pretty nearly to the ancient Epirus, in the south. The chief towns of these eyalets are respectively Scutari, Monastir, and Joannina, sometimes written Janina or Yanina; and these divisions are therefore spoken of by some writers as the pashaliks of Scutari, Monastir, and Joannina. The divisions chiefly recognised by the Albanians themselves are those formed by the varieties of the native tribes. Colonel Leake, who is considered one of the best informed authorities on this head, divides them into the Ngege or Ghegides, whose principal towns are Dulcigno, Scutari, and Durazzo; the Toske or Toskides, who occupy Berat and Elbasan; the Liape, a poor and predatory race, who in habit the mountains between the Toske and Delvino; and the Tsami, who inhabit the most southerly district, and whose principal towns are Suli and Paramithia. The country is mountainous, the interior being traversed by a range which forms a prolongation of the Dinaric Alps, and which is continued southwards in the Pindus range. These mountains, from which numerous spurs are thrown out to the east and west, run in a direction from north to south, parallel to the course of the Tchar Dagh. Along the southern part of the coast-line, and parallel with it, run the Khimara mountains, known to the ancients as the Acroceraunian range, terminating northwards in the bold headland of Cape Glossa. There are three lakes of great size in Albania—Scutari in the north, Okhrida in the centre, and Joannina in the south. The rivers for the most part are short, and run, generally speaking, from east to west, or in a north-westerly direction. The Moroka and Zenta enter the lake of Scutari, which is connected with the sea by the Boyana, that flows into the Adriatic near Dulcigno. The White Drin, flowing in a southerly direction, and the Black Drin, running northwards from Lake Okhrida, form the head streams of the Drin. The principal streams in addition to these are the Skombia, Voyutza, Calamas, Alia, and Gurla (the ancient Acheron), with its tributary the Vuvó (the ancient Cocytus). The climate is generally healthy, though cold and bleak in the highlands; the warmer regions along the coast are also frequently visited by cold northerly winds.

Albania includes not only the ancient Epirus, but also part of the ancient Macedonia, Illyria, and Chaonia. This country was in early times, as now, distinguished by the rude valour of its inhabitants. Its remote situation, and the want of union among its tribes, generally prevented it from acting any conspicuous part in Grecian politics. The only remarkable exception occurs in the reign of Pyrrhus, king of Epirus (296–272 B.C.), who was justly ranked among the greatest captains of antiquity. After his death the country was again split into a number of petty states, which were unable to resist the united strength of Macedon; and to that kingdom Epirus continued subject till both were alike subdued by the Roman arms (167 B.C.)

It was during the time of the Greek empire that the name of Albania was first given to this district. During the decline of the empire the Albanians gradually rose to distinction, and at last to independence. Their valour enabled them to maintain their ground against the Bulgarians, who had occupied all the neighbouring districts of Greece. Nor were they less successful against the Turks, a more formidable enemy. Under the command of the celebrated George Castriot, called by the Turks Scanderbeg, they baffled all the efforts of Mahomet II., the conqueror of Constantinople. That powerful monarch entered Albania only to experience a succession of defeats, and was at length compelled to acknowledge its independence by a formal treaty. On the death of Scanderbeg, the Turks redoubled their efforts against Albania, which was at length reduced to a state of nominal subjection. The siege of Scutari, in 1478, formed the termination of this memorable struggle. The subjection, however, was always the imperfect; revolts were frequent, and the inhabitants of mountainous districts still preserved their independence. It was the motives of pay and plunder, rather than compulsion, that brought these hardy soldiers into the Turkish ranks. In proportion as the Ottoman empire declined in vigour, its hold of Albania became less firm; and the vigorous and enterprising genius of Ali Pasha again converted this dependency into what might almost be called a separate kingdom.

In the grand insurrection of Greece (1821–1829), the Albanians, accustomed to view with disdain the Ottoman yoke, showed a considerable disposition to make common cause with the Greeks, and their co-operation would have almost ensured success. But the Greeks, imprudently and unhappily, could not divest themselves of the feelings of enmity cherished during the long series of wars which Ali had waged against them. At the siege of Tripolizza (October 5, 1821) overtures were made to them by a corps of 3000 Albanians, who formed part of the garrison; but the Greeks, having succeeded in entering the place, began a dreadful and indiscriminate massacre, in which the Albanians were not spared. At the siege of Arta, although the capture was much facilitated by the coming over of a corps of Albanians, the Greeks treated them extremely ill. The Albanian nation was thus forcibly thrown into the arms of the Porte, to which it has since continued nominally subject. The allegiance of the Albanians, however, to Turkey rests on a very precarious basis even at the present day, and, it will be remembered, in the Crimean war many Albanian chiefs fought under the Russian flag against the combined forces of England, France, and Turkey.

The inhabitants of Albania are estimated at 1,200,000, of whom a considerable proportion are Turks and Greeks; but the basis of the population consists of the original race, called Arnauts. About half of the entire population are Mahometans; of the other moiety, about 520,000 belong to the Greek Church, and the remainder to the Latin Church. The conversion of those who profess Mahometanism has been, however, very imperfect, and chiefly induced by political motives. In every family the males usually go to the mosque, the females to church; and some members of a family are seen in the most amicable manner eating from the same table, and even from the same plate, meats forbidden to the others. With the Turks, accordingly, infidel and Albanian are terms nearly synonymous. The native Albanian is of middle stature; his face is oval, with high cheek-bones; his neck long; his chest full and broad. His air is erect and majestic to a degree which never fails to strike the traveller. He holds in utter contempt that dissimulation which is characteristic of the Greek, and, unlike the Turk, he is gay, lively, and active. Averse, however, to regular industry, his whole delight is in arms and plunder. He goes constantly armed; and there are few Albanians who have not, in the prime of their life, belonged to some of the numerous bands of robbers who infest the mountains of their native country, of Thessaly, and of Macedonia. This occupation carries with it no disgrace: it is common for the Albanian to mention circumstances which occurred "when he was a robber." In proportion as the trade of robbing becomes overstocked, part of those engaged in it seek employment in the service of the sultan and the different pashas throughout the Turkish empire, by all of whom the Albanians are regarded as the most valuable of their troops.

This fierce and haughty race display a greater degree of contempt for the female sex than is usual even among the most barbarous nations. The females are literally regarded as inferior animals, and treated accordingly; but in the country districts they are not confined or veiled, as is customary in Mahometan countries.

The national costume of the Albanians is handsome in appearance, and bears some resemblance to the Highland dress. It consists of a cotton shirt; a white woollen fustanella or kilt, which reaches to the knees; a jacket; a sash round the waist, in which pistols and a yataghan are commonly carried; coloured leggings; sandals; and a red cap, round which some twist a shawl or scarf. The chiefs and wealthy Albanians generally wear a jacket and vest of velvet, richly embroidered with gold, and metal greaves over their leggings, which are usually made of fine scarlet cloth. The poorer classes, though picturesque in appearance, are extremely dirty in their habits, and seldom change their clothes. As a protection from the weather, every Albanian has a capote, or rough shaggy mantle with a hood attached, and usually made of horse-hair stuff or coarse woollen cloth. The dress of the females is more various, and often fantastical. A singular custom prevails among the girls of stringing together the pieces of money which they have collected for their portion, and wearing them upon their heads. Some of them have their hair hanging down in braids to a great length, loaded with this species of ornament.

Scutari, on the lake of that name, is now considered the chief town of Albania. It is the centre of a large inland trade, and contains about 40,000 inhabitants. Prisrend, in the north-east, is noted for its manufactures of fire-arms and cutlery, and has a population of 25,000. Monastir, or Bitolia, although the capital of the eyalet of Roumelia, is not, strictly speaking, within the confines of Albania. It has a large transit trade between eastern and western Turkey. Joannina, with 36,000 inhabitants, situated on the south-west shore of a lake of the same name, was the capital of Albania in the time of Ali Pasha, and was his stronghold as well as the seat of his government. The other important towns of the interior are Jacova, Tirana, Okhrida, Elbasan, Delvino, and Metzovo. The principal seaports and river-ports are Dulcigno, Durazzo, Parga, Prevesa, and Arta.

The commerce of Albania is chiefly carried on through Arta and Prevesa, on the north side of the entrance to the Gulf of Arta. The principal merchants, however, are Greeks residing at Joannina, among whom a very active commercial spirit appears to prevail. The exports consist almost entirely of unmanufactured produce, live stock, and provisions, and comprise valonia (the cup of the acorn of the Valonia oak, used in tanning), raw silk, cheese, raw hides, drugs, dye-woods, sheep, horses, and salted meats. Notwithstanding its mountainous character, the fertility of its plains affords a surplus of grain, of which a considerable quantity is sent to Italy, the Ionian Isles, Malta, and other places. The vine, olive, pomegranate, orange, lemon, mulberry, and fig are also cultivated. Wool is exported, chiefly unmanufactured, but partly also wrought into coarse cloth. Other important articles of export are oil, tobacco of good quality, cotton, and cotton yarn. Some cargoes of wood for building and firewood are annually sent to Malta. The chief imports consist of woollen cloths, used for winter coverings. For this purpose the preference is given to a coarser and cheaper kind than any that is usually manufactured in Great Britain. This is supplied from Germany. Fire-arms, cutlery, gunpowder, hardware, coffee, and sugar are also imported. The manufactures of Albania are few and unimportant, being almost entirely confined to capotes, embroidery on cloth and velvet, fire-arms and cutlery to a limited extent, and gun and pistol stocks all for home consumption.

See the Journey through Albania and Turkey of Mr J. Cam Hobhouse (Lord Broughton); Travels in the Ionian Isles, Albania, &c., by Sir Henry Holland, who resided for some time in the capacity of physician at the court of Ali Pasha; Rev. T. S. Hugnes's Travels in Sicily, Greece, and Albania; Leake's Travels in Northern Greece; Mrs Mary A. Walker's Through Macedonia to the Albanian Lakes.