Lacrosse: The National Game of Canada/Chapter 13
CHAPTER XIII.
GOAL-KEEPING.
No moment in the game of Lacrosse is of more intense and nervous interest, than the critical junctures of attack and defence at the goals. The fate of every game culminates at one or the other. No score can be made by any other play than that which puts the ball in, and then the score is not individual but collective.
The moment the ball is thrown to goal—with no chance of interception until it gets there,—the whole fortune and stake concentrates in responsibility on the individual skill of its keeper, irrespective of all play that preceded it. Nothing antecedent to the straight throw or tip, which is to win the game or be stopped, can in the least avert the danger. There are many chances of retrieving a mistake on the field, before it becomes critically dangerous, but if goal-keeper misjudges a shot, or fails to stop a ball, at least one game is irretrievably lost. Let the bail through, and you may rest on your crosse, while your antagonists throw their sticks in the air, and “hurrah!” and your side look glum and blue. Point may be Point to perfection; Centre may be all that could be wished, and your fielders swift as the antelope, but of what avail, if you fail? Brave defence cannot compensate for loss of victory. What matters it, comparatively, if the ball passes any other player; nothing is really lost? Who blames a fielder if he evades swift balls?—but who forgives the goal-keeper?
The single responsibility is the principal reason, why so few players select the goal in preference to any other position.
It is a common error to suppose that the Indians never had special men at the goals. Where the single pole was used there was no necessity for a special defender; but wherever the present goal was in use, one or more men were placed at the flags, or conveniently near. Proximity to the goal was governed by the size of the ground, the number of players, and the face of the game. On fields of a quarter or half a mile, it was left comparatively unprotected, unless the game was pressing hard towards it; but on moderate sized fields it was common to have special men posted, unless the number of players was unusually small. Basil Hall, writing of the Creeks of Alabama, and of a game he saw in a field 200 yards long, fifty players on a side, says, “I observed that each of the goals or wickets, formed by the two boughs at the ends, was guarded by a couple of the most expert players, whose duty it was to prevent the ball passing through the opening;—the especial object of their antagonists.”
An observer, looking at our game, easily signals out the special man who defends the flags, because the goal-keeper is nearly always at his post; but it is quite probable that the specialty in the original game, may not have been noticed as particularly by others as it was by Hall; as the Indian game was more individual, and every man on the field was ambitious of carrying the ball to the goal. The original goal-keeper did not fear long shots, or sudden sallies, as the play had little system after it began, and the only principle of every man was to follow the ball, and concentrate entire interest upon himself by a carry. We have, however, positive testimony, that special men at the goals was the rule whenever the present kind were used, and we know it is still the rule among the Indian players of Canada, though they have often told us to the contrary, and advised us not to train one. We rather fancy they would approve of not training special men for goal, for good goal-keeping has so often baulked their best shots, and defeated even four and five of them, tipping and swiping at the flags. Who doubts whether the splendid Indian goal-keeper at the Montreal matches on Dominion Days, 1867 and 1868, was goal-keeper by chance or selection? And why does each succeeding year develop better red-skin goal defence? Simply, because one individual man trains for the post.
However, it is not what the Indians did or do among themselves; the question is, does our game necessitate special men at the flags? We have seen that wherever the present goal was used, the Indians had certain men at or in proximity to each winning point, and the reason why our game absolutely needs trained goal-keepers, may be summed up in a few words. The small fields to which we are predestinated in towns and cities,—even on this continent of great lands,—and the change from carrying, to a game of accurate throwing from all positions and distances, which makes the goal a target for good shots, might be sufficient reason; and when we consider the importance of that open space being well protected when the ball is thrown to it; that it is only six feet high and wide; that the ball is only nine inches in circumference, and that the objects of posting the men would be greatly frustrated if there was no one specially charged with defence of the flags, you will, doubtless, see the necessity for a trained goalkeeper. It is difficult to write in this connection without writing of ourself, but not egotistically, we hope. Eight or nine years ago, when we defended the goal of our Club, the matches for the championship were emphatically games of defence on our part. We used to keep a score of the balls stopped during a match, and at one, in 1860, our crosse saved game fifteen times in a little over an hour, as is chronicled on the stick we then used,—peace to its catgut! At several matches succeeding, when goal was crowded by opponents, or swift shots came at the flags, within a distance of twelve feet, no one would deny the necessity of accustoming a special man to guard that portal?
A trained man at goal strengthens the confidence of the men out on the field, as infantry supports do the confidence of cavalry. A single long throw from the centre of the field, alters in a twinkling the face of the game, and may give an advantage to the home men, which no speed of leg can prevent before a strong attack is made. The art of stopping a home man’s shot or tip, is entirely different from any other play, and needs special practice as well as dodging or checking.
You may sometimes hear men who are good hand-ball catchers say “Oh! anybody can keep goal; I could catch any ball you throw, with my hand.” Let us tell you a personal reminiscence, which may serve as a warning to such ambition. A friend several years ago made just such a remark to us, and consented to try the experiment. The flags were placed only four feet apart: the first few shots were as slow as could be thrown, and were caught, of course. We then moved off to about thirty feet from the flags, and placing the ball on the lower angle, let fly straight at the mark. Our friend’s hands did not stop it, but his stomach did. Closing up to about twenty feet, we threw a moderately swift ball, which struck the ground a few feet in front of notre ami, and suddenly bouncing up, hit him under the chin with such force as to make him yell with pain. We never knew a better hand-ball catcher than the above experimenter, but he is now thoroughly convinced, that hand-ball catching and goal-keeping are two very different arts.
Many crack players dread the responsibilities and dangers of goal-keeping. We have seen veteran fielders shrink up like the mimosa sensitiva at the very approach of a swift ball, which a trained goal-keeper would no more mind than a pea. A man may even stop balls well enough out on the field, but put him at goal, and confidence gives way to trepidation. Not only does he find himself a target within a limit for the swiftest of shots; but dreads the responsibility at his back, the fear of making slips, and the nervous anticipation whenever the ball is shooting within his vicinity.
It is rarely you meet with players magnanimous enough to throw at goal in the way you would prefer, or a little slower than you would suggest. They may put the greatest amount of brute force into their most violent throw, and you must not budge or move a hair of your eye lashes. Have you ever had an opponent, noted for hard throwing, pick his ground ten feet from you, and send the ball whizzing from the lower angle down the netting straight at your face? And has it not felt pleasant when it smashed through your crosse, raising a half of a duck-egg on your forehead, and giving you an imaginative demonstration of sidereal astronomy, commonly called “seeing stars”? But that’s no odds, if you save game for your side in a match. School boys should never cry when flogged, and goal-keepers should never flinch when hit.
The first virtue of a goal-keeper is to forget that he has nerves, and simply accustom himself to stopping balls, high or low, swift or slow, because they have no business to pass him.
There are qualifications required of a goal-keeper in an eminent degree, which, owing to the singleness of his responsibility, are as imperative as a strongly woven crosse. If it does not need courage to stand at the flags, and fear no pace of a ball, which would kill a dog if it struck it, tell us what does? What needs more undivided attention, more promptness, self-reliance and coolness, than when your goal is crowded by four or five red skins, and your own men in a desperate attack and defence? Who would change positions with you under such circumstances? If the several men in front of you cannot prevent a shot or tip to goal under such circumstances, how, unerringly certain must be your defence. Not only do you lose the game for your side if you let the ball through, but your reputation, and peace of mind. Any other man may pass muster, but you are a sinner. And bright and soft eyes do not look at you graciously any more—a serious trouble, everybody knows, to young fellows unwed.
But let us smooth the way for your defence of goal. We like to go to the flags with shoes on instead of moccasins, and, if throwing at goal from short distances is to become the rule, we intend to wear leg-guards, as in Cricket, for why should we needlessly expose our shins to fracture. Our principal reason, however, for wearing leg-guards will be hereafter seen. Both hands may be gloved, but a glove on the left, padded on top, is sufficient. Our crosse, for goal-keeping, is of light, limber ash, and the cat-gut netted with twisted clock-gut strings, doubled. The lower angle needs double strings to the end. Every goal-keeper should have a foot- measure marked on his crosse, from the butt upwards, with which to regulate the height of the flag-poles. The flag-pole is a measure for the width of the flags apart, and the distance of the crease, but the crosse measure is more convenient. First, make these measurements, and correct them by permission of the umpires. Then study the ground around your goal; observe any ridge or depression within twelve feet, at which the ball might hop. The flags have no orthodox position like wickets. If better ground can be had to post the flags, ask permission of your captain. Tramp down lumps and make the ground as level and smooth as possible. If the wind is blowing strong, slip elastic bands over the flags, so that they will not interfere with your sight and crosse. If the sun is in your eyes, the more pity for you, and luck for your opponents; but have a moveable peak to your cap, which can be regulated and extended as you prefer.
We always turn our face to goal and draw three lines with our crosse,—one from each flag-pole, and one from the centre, out about seven feet in front, so that when our back is to the flags we may be guided by these lines, without having to glance behind, as to the exact middle. Some years ago we lost a game by misjudging our position, as we stood a few feet from the line parallel with the flag-poles. Originally we played with the poles seven feet apart, but the average perfection of throwing became so increased that it was thought fair to goal-keepers to narrow it to six. Goal-keeping, therefore, is a shade less difficult, especially in crowded contests, than in the olden time.
Be particular about your crosse. Do not use hickory; if you find it too heavy. Get the very best clock-gut, and sacrifice looks to strength.
At the match before H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, the whites had two goal-keepers, and the result was imperfect harmony of action. If the ball was as large as a football two men might work together, but with a Lacrosse ball, never. One trained goal-keeper is all that is required; more only obstruct and weaken the field. It is like having two batsmen before the wicket, or two wicket-keepers behind them. If you find it necessary to act on the defensive, strengthen the links out from goal, but avoid crowding and confusing your keeper.
Position.—Stand about the centre of goal, two feet out. If the hall is nearing you stand about half a foot forward, and never get immediately between the flags. The advantage of being a foot or two out will soon be demonstrated if you have much experience at goal. For instance, a grounder may be partially stopped, but, by a slip, pass you; if you are between the flags the game is lost, but, if a foot or two in front, you may catch it, as we have frequently done, before it reaches the losing line.
When the attack is towards your fags always have both hands on your crosse, right hand at the butt, left above the collar; the side with which you play facing the front. The left foot may be a little in advance of the right if you know how to use your feet in goalkeeping, but, if not, keep your heels together. If the ball is thrown from any distance past the goal-crease, or, if you are attacked by one man dodging, or Home tipping in the ball, keep an easy almost erect position; but in close, crowded play, when the ball is being fought at a few feet in front, and you see it careering under feet and between legs, stoop down, or half sit on one knee, and watch it with eagle eye, taking a short grasp of your crosse. The former erect position is the usual “Ready” for any shot, and is the safest position for young beginners; but it may be laid down, as a rule, that when your goal is not crowded, it is better to stand up; when crowded, better to stoop.
Never sit or lie down at your goal when the game is going on. Let us relate a thorn in our reputation. At a match in Ottawa between our club and the “Ottawa,” we heard the cry of “lost ball” during one of the games. The players of both sides stood and squatted in repose for some minutes, and our Point said, “the ball is to be faced when found!” As we had been very ill on the way up to Ottawa, and felt uncomfortable in our principle organ of digestion, we ventured to take a siesta on the ground until the ball was found. We were mentally analyzing the cause and cure of stomachache, when something flew over our head, and a wild cheer followed. Like a shot we, were up, but to find that one of the “Ottawas” had just jumped into goal over our head, with the ball on his crosse; having found the lost rubber and stolen down behind the crowd, who were within ten feet of the flags, and got between our Point and goal. The feat was very properly declared a “fluke,” and no game, as the ball was lost, and every one expected it would be faced for. We would certainly not have sat down had the ball not been declared lost, unless our side had it all their own way at the opposite goal; but this reminiscence may serve to teach a principle to goal-keepers, and that is, to take nothing for granted, but always be on the qui vive until game is lost or won.
The variety of guards used at goal may be enumerated as follows: 1st, the Cut; 2nd, the Block; 3rd, the Flat Check.
1st. The Cut.—Is the guard by which you strike at coming balls of all kinds; and is used in emergencies, when goal is crowded, and when your object is to drive the ball to any particular man of your side. It too often degenerates into swiping; is the safest guard, but severe on the netting of the crosse.
The side of the netting with which you cut, depends upon the kind of ball, and the position from which it is thrown. Balls may be cut well with either side; but it is better to take the most of those which come above your hips, with the opposite side to which you play, handle down; all below, with the playing side, if they are thrown from a straight point in front. Balls which come swiftly at your centre, from a right or left angle, however, should be met by the side of the crosse which will bring the wood towards the flag pole, past which the ball is coming;—for instance, if it is thrown from a point at right angles with the flag pole on your right, meet it with the left face of the netting and vice versa, The principle of this is, that the nearer the ball strikes to the wood the less likely it is to bounce off, and that you meet it sooner with a wider surface. A goal-keeper must, nevertheless, have equal confidence in either side of his netting.
Cut by a half hook, catch and strike. When the ball is just touching the netting, draw back your crosse quickly, which will deaden the shock and prevent the rebound of the ball, and in another motion cut it away to any point desired, or retain it if you have a chance to throw. This sudden retroceding motion, as if recoiling from the ball after it touches the netting, and then striking it away, is one of the most important parts of stopping. Swiping at a ball is both injurious to the crosse and unscientific. Study the art of cutting to right and left, wherever particular points may be. Under some circumstances, such as when one or more opponents stand at the goal-crease, ready to knock in a ball about to be thrown, you must strike at it without the receding movement. Prefer cutting to either side of goal than to the immediate front, but keep your eyes open and cut to the man least checked. Study to cut exact to any distance.
2nd. The Block—Is the other common guard for all balls, especially short quick throws and tips. The difference between the cut and the block is the same as in meeting a ball with a cricket bat, to score, and with your hands as in hand catching. The rule in the former as in the cut, is for the bat to strike the ball, not the ball the bat; while in the latter, as in the block, the ball strikes the hands, not the hands the ball. The aim of the batsman is to score by a good hit; of the goal-keeper to block, so as to retain the ball for a throw. If you do not wish to retain the ball, block and cut. The receding movement described in preceding section is advisable. You may use either side of the netting, but the former rules, given in connection with this, apply as well to the block as the cut.
If the ball slips in a block or cut, catch it up smartly and draw it towards the front.
3rd. The Cover (see illustration 4) is often available, but requires practice and caution. In blocking, you may secure the ball by a quick cover check; but it is principally intended for grounders. Always cover with the reverse side of the netting to which you play, and do it quick and close. The ball should stop about the middle of the netting.
Special use of Hands, Feet and Legs.—The laws very justly allow the goal-keeper to touch the ball with his hand, while within the crease. Very often a slip is recovered and patted away by the left hand, and some useful and pretty play made in tapping it up in the air, and keeping it out from the flags after it has bounced on the netting of the crosse. It is a common thing to cut and block balls with one hand as an assistant to the crosse. There is no license, however, given goal-keeper to catch and throw with the hand. The proper use of the feet is part of the science of goal-keeping. When you block a ball near the edge of either flag pole it is liable to slip sideways; as these balls are generally stopped at arm-stretch, when you cannot bring to them a full face of the netting. The instant you block at either side spring to that side ; bring the nearest foot in line with your crosse, toe to the stick and follow with the next foot heels in line with each other. This gives a guard the width of your crosse and two feet together, and has often, in our experience saved games. Had you feet like the Monosceli Indians of whom Pliny writes, who sheltered their whole body from the sun with the only foot they had,—having only one leg,—you would certainly be able to introduce some new and startling methods of goal-keeping.
The legs, from the ankle to the hips, are sometimes made the innocent victims of hard shots; but, when stopping grounders, it is a good plan to close the legs together and meet the ball with them, as well as with the crosse. The use of one leg 2s an auxiliary of the crosse is invaluable if you do not mind knocks.
About leg-guards. That swift balls hurt one’s shins will be generally acknowledged without experiment, and we do not see why a goal-keeper should not protect his lower extremities, as well as a batsman before the wickets. The Indians never throw hard at goal when playing among themselves, bat the pale-face substitutes swift shots for the Indian way of bunching and crowding. As a goal-keeper we never intend to complain of the swiftest and strongest balls, lest some might think we dreaded them; and we do not. But if men will throw balls at goal hard enough to smash any netting that was ever made, and, sometimes any bone that ever stood in the way, it is but fair that its keeper should, at least, have some leg- armor. But it is as much, if not more, for the sake of the greater confidence leg-guards give a man, and the better use he can make of his extremities in low balls. For the same reason shoes or boots are better for a goal-keeper than moccasins, because balls striking the latter hurt the feet, and a man will not risk his toes in “toeing” a grounder if he has anything soft covering them. We know no leg-guards better for the purpose than those used at cricket, though they might be made so as to be more easily put off and on. in case goal-keeper wanted to make a good run, and had time to take them off.
Grounders—Always cut or block grounders which do not come straight, but to either side, with the bend of the crosse nearest the ground, as they there by strike the wood, instead of the bare netting near the leading strings. If the bend is down it gives more surface for stopping. Place the crosse on the ground, with the tip directly up, and the whole stick, from the butt to the bend, is on a level: reverse it, tip down, and butt touching ground, and there is a space nearly its entire length through which the ball can pass. The principle is that the former brings the largest and safest surface to receive the ball.
When grounders come straight in front of you, stop them with the crosse perpendicular, or butt slightly pointing over the right arm.
Grounders should be cut within two feet of your position. If cut too far from where you stand, the ball is liable to slip; if too near, the object of the cut is not as easily attained. The block should be done within half a foot; the cover, when the ball is about a crosse’s length. In the two former, keep the handle advanced to prevent the rise of the ball. If a grounder is coming slow, and the chances are safe, go out and meet it; but this, however necessary, requires the utmost caution.
Grounders may be caught when blocked, but never risk a catch or a block when an opponent is close to the crease.
Hoppers—Are generally hard to meet, because they rise so unexpectedly from a short distance. You get absorbed in the attitude and mode for stopping some certain ball, when suddenly it strikes a ridge or lump, and ricochets into the flags quicker than you can recover. Hoppers generally rise at points between your breast and hips, and you should always be on your guard against them, as no ground is to be trusted.
Straight balls.—If swift, keep your ground; if medium or slow, move out to meet them. Remember, these are the most difficult to stop, in the following order:—1. An inch or two above the navel; 2. The chest; 3. Head, or above it; 4. The knee; 5. Below the knee.
A dead-shot, thrown on a line with the first, will puzzle the most of goal-keepers, because it is difficult to bring, quickly, any large surface of netting to that point. Sometimes a sudden leap upwards answers to do this; sometimes, reversing the position of the crosse from a ground block, and dropping down on one knee, presenting the full surface of netting to the ball. Any straight ball that can be cut may be blocked. Balls may be struck to the ground in front, and caught; but, when caught for an intended throw, always go to one side, clear of the flags, before throwing, as it is never safe for goal-keeper to throw from a point immediately at the crease. A goal-keeper—a friend of ours—once blocked and caught a ball, and, being attacked by an opponent, ran through his own flags with it to get an opportunity to throw, and so scored a game for his antagonists. Do not do that.
Balls below the line of your hips are easier stopped with the side of the netting you use in play; those above, with the reverse side, the crosse perpendicular, netting up and butt down. Straight balls, which come at the chest, we often sweep up and backwards over the top of the flags if home is near.
Curved Balls.—Balls which come in a curve are very deceptive to the eye, as you cannot tell exactly where they will drop until they have commenced to descend. Get a partially side view of descending balls, if you can. Thes afest plan is to cut them; or practice first block, and then catch if you can. Cutting is the surest. You are liable to misjudge the time in blocking. The position at which you receive the ball is important; that is, it is safer to be too far behind it than too far in front.
Angle Shots.—Shots which are thrown from a right or left angle with the flag poles are very puzzling. We find the safest way to stop them is to stand on a line, or a little outside of the flag-pole nearest to the thrower, and meet them as if the goal was immediately behind. In this position you stand with one side to goal.
Tips and Kicks—Win many games. After you have cut a ball, it not unusually happens that it is tipped or kicked back by one or more opponents near; especially when goal is crowded. The great quickness in stopping these balls can only be acquired by practice, until it becomes a habit to meet them as if by instinct. It is quite a different kind of goal-keeping from a clear throw.
Sweeps.—Are the most dangerous and difficult to stop; and differ from swipes by being more short and quick. A swipe is a regular strike, as in shinty; but a sweep is when a thrown ball is caught on the wing by “Home” for instance, and driven into the goal. Such shots are very deceptive, as they break the line of vision between the eye and the original throw, and oblige it to catch up a new line at a very difficult pace and distance. The rule is to watch the coming ball, and if it is evident that “home” will sweep, concentrate attention on him just before the ball reaches him.
In all methods of stopping, bring the largest surface of netting to the ball; never pin your faith to the lower angle.
In grounders or straight balls, it is easier to stop those to the left than to right, because you have more command of your crosse to the left, if you hold your right hand at the butt, as nearly every player holds his stick. If you hold it by the left hand on the butt, the rule is reversed.
We keep in the centre line of goal, and when we know just about where a ball will come, we mentally say “right” or “left,” “high” or “low,” as they are to be stopped, and accommodate our position accordingly.
Dodging into Goal.—If your defence aids let an opponent get between them and the goal, look out for a dodge. If your opponent charges at you headlong, stand about a foot from the centre of goal, at the “ready”; watch the ball on his crosse attentively, and if he throws make a quick hard cut or block, and bring your body square, to prevent him passing you, if you can. If you see he is attempting a fair dodge, and not bearing down upon you like a hussar upon a foot soldier, follow the same rules, minus the body check. Generally a dodger throws into goal under the line of your stomach. At the “ready,” you have your crosse in the best position of preparation for any low ball, or ordinary check.
If your opponent attempts the throw and strike described on page 115, you may wait for the ball, if it is struck from beyond nine or ten feet, as the probabilities are that by running out you might miss. If it is about to be struck from a nearer position, spring at your opponent, hit his crosse as it is striking at the ball, and either hit it, or kick it away with your foot when it falls. Practice in stopping these balls is essentially necessary.
Long, Medium and Short Throws.—Long throws are the easiest to stop; medium are more deceptive; short, bring out the science of goal-keeping. Miscalculation of any throw is liable, where strict attention is not given to the ball before it reaches the flags. The longer you can keep your eyes upon it, from the instant it leaves the thrower’s crosse, the better will be your calculation. The difficulty of short throws, is that you have so little time to catch the line in which they are coming.
Swift and Slow Shots.—Allowing for the extra weight of a cricket ball, the danger of stopping a short swift lacrosse ball, thrown from the lower angle of the netting is greater.
It is a mistake to suppose that swift shots are harder to stop than slow. They make a young goal-keeper anticipate injury, and nervous, but when accustomed to the habit of stopping he fears no pace. We have always found slow balls more puzzling and more likely to be missed than swift. The Indians generally win by slow close shots, and curved balls dropped upon the flags. A swift straight throw is easier to stop as a rule, because you can calculate upon its course better than a moderately slow. The effect of swift balls is increased by their liability of breaking the netting of your crosse, and exciting the terror of maiming.
Bunching Game.—It is the highest art of goal- guarding to contest successfully against a bunch of opponents, especially if they be frantic Indians fighting your men for the ball. Stoop down low, and keep your eye on the ball. No opponent has a right to stand waiting for the rubber so as to impede the action of your crosse. The Indians used to do this, until their feet and legs were so unmercifully mauled that they gave the goal-keeper room for action. Do not let Point help you in a bunch: he ought to have enough to do without backing up parallel with you. A ball, tipped or thrown at the flags, should be stopped by only one crosse after it passes the line of the goal-crease; two, or more, only interfere.
Regulating Points.—It would be a wise principle to establish, that goal-keeper, if he has the tact, should regulate the positions of Point, Cover-point, and any connecting links, as wicket-keeper in cricket regulates the field. His quiet position enables him to see when men leave their places, and when opponents manœuvre in attack. So much ultimately depends upon him, that it is but fair that he should have some power to keep his defence aids in their places to prevent a sudden attack. It is quite common for Point and his links to get out of their places, and for games to be lost because they were too far from goal, and no one but goal-keeper can always see when they are too far out. A wicket-keeper’s tact wins many a wicket, and a goal-keeper’s can save many a hard attack at his flags. If it is necessary to give a man this power—even with a Captain—in a game like Cricket, where the points are comparatively stationary, how much more is it necessary in Lacrosse, where the shifting of one critical point may endanger a game? Goal-keeper, however, must not lose his wits, or, by too much commanding, forget his principal duty.
Difference between Batting and Goat-keeping.—It is a mistake to suppose a good batsman must easily become a good goal-keeper. No doubt he can become so sooner, as a rule, than a man ho has not had his hand and eye educated by swift halls; but there is a wide difference between batting and goal-keeping. In Cricket the batsman knows that the bowler aims solely at the wickets—that to tumble the bails is his object. In Lacrosse, goal-keeper has a space six feet high and six feet wide to defend; and, while one ball into the wickets only puts one man out, generally, one ball into goal is a lost game, invariably. The bat covers the wickets, and the batsman’s body is scarcely exposed to accident, except by his own carelessness. The crosse and you, together, cannot cover the goal, and you are a target for swift shots that have no compunction whether they hit your crosse or your face. The difference of pace and curve in bowling is not as puzzling as the many kinds of shots to goal, and the various distances from which they are flung and tipped. The Cricket ball is always delivered within the bowling-crease, and you always have the orthodox distance from it to judge; but in goal-keeping you can neither foresee the distance of the next ball, nor whether it will come high or low, swift or slow. We consider it easier to block the same paced ball, at wickets, than to stop it going into goal. Much of the fine science of batting might be introduced into goal-keeping, but it is risky, considering the width and height of the flag poles. Science in goal-keeping is not batting at all balls, but turning some to the right or left of the flags, and retaining others.
Accidents—If you lack courage and confidence you are almost sure to be injured by swift balls, Stop a hall determinedly and your crosse will bear the brunt; shirk, and your body will probably suffer.
In close conflicts around goal you are liable to accident from strokes of opposing crosses, especially when playing with Indians. They get very savage in such tussles. At an Indian match we got a stroke and a drag on the back of the left hand from an Indian's crosse, which opened a slit of an inch and a half in length, through which was afforded to the lover of anatomy a charming prospect of the articulation of the knuckles.
Getting yourself dissected to save a game is not a pleasant thing to look forward to, but, if you save the honor of your side, never mind a wound. You are not to invite it, but you must risk it. It is a very rare thing, however, to hear of any very severe accident in Lacrosse.
Should goal-keeper ever leave his place?—As a rule, if there is only one reliable goal-keeper in a match, he should not exchange permanently with another player; but there are occasions in nearly every match when games are saved and danger averted by a reasonable desertion. It would be folly to pass the goal crease if the game narrows to a bunching attack: in such a case, whether your opponents are unskilful players or not, you should keep your post.
If an opponent has a clear field, and makes an unchecked charge at you, what should you do? Run out to meet him?—as ten times in twelve you'll be advised. No, decidedly not; even though you are confessedly the best check on the field. The folly of going out to meet such an emergency is clear. If your opponent knows anything about dodging, he will throw over your head, or pass you by some carried dodge, and make a dash at the flags; or he may dart to one side, and make a clean straight or curved shot, which when you turn to follow, you'll see entering the goal! Even if he is a poor player, he may throw the ball over your head into the goal before you reach him. The probabilities too, are, that you are not as good at checking as at goal-keeping, and it is best to choose the least of two evils and receive your opponent at your flags as advised. We have lost several games by running out to meet an opponent in such a case, and only saved one. Now we always stick to our post, and trust to skill.
If the ball is thrown towards goal, and lands midway between an opponent and you.—You may if good at a dash, run out, and flat check or tip away if opponent is close. But never try experiments or run any risk, especially in a match. Sometimes too, the ball drops behind your flags, or in some spot near, which you can reach soonest. In such a case you should save your aids, and run out. Your quiet position walking the goal-crease keeps you comparatively fresh and winded for such dashes, and you have, too, the advantage of proximity to the ball, which imperatively demands that you should run out to get it. But never challenge or accept a tussel with any opponent. Point, of course, should go into goal when you leave, unless he has opportunity to move to a good position to receive the ball from you. There are a few other general principles which may guide you in every case. Be within the goal-crease whenever the ball is thrown at the flags. If “Home” is so near that he might check your block, prefer to let balls pass which shoot wide of the flag poles. Do not attempt a run down the field if the game has been, and is likely to be hard against you. It is not safe to venture past Point’s position if he is the only man to replace you, unless your men are having it their own way. If there is no reliable man to relieve you in a match, better keep your position; but while that is, emphatically, defender of the goal, you should occasionally relieve some over-taxed player, when you judge it to be safe,—who can either replace you or change places with an easier post. There is a sort of duality in the duties of a goal-keeper, which depends for its exercise upon his own judgment.
There are many puzzling occasions which test the worth of a goal-keeper. For instance:—the close throw and strike of an opponent who has reached your flags; the sweeping of the ball on the wing into goal by “Home”; and the quick succession of tips, swipes, and kicks of a crowd of checks. The most critical point we know of, is a practice common among the Indians. One man will carry the ball, or it will be tacked up near to goal, while “Home” closes in, and a fielder goes behind your flags when you are absorbed in watching the manœuvres in front. In an instant a curved ball is thrown over the flags to the fielder behind; he catches it, throws it back, dropping it just within the goal-crease, the opponents near closing up in the meantime, and hitting the ball, when it is within reach, into your flags. Or perhaps the opponent in rear of your goal, surprises you by closing in and sending a grounder through—which is not game, of course,—which “Home” tries to strike back. It is hardly possible that such a crisis can arrive and find you without your aids to check; but it is a breathless moment that needs courage and self-possession.
A fielder should be close enough to assist in front, and to check any opponent in rear of the flags. Goal-keeper should keep the whole situation in his eye; and never lose sight of the ball. Check rear throws the same as if in front, and if they go through or over to the front, wheel round to the defence. Depend altogether upon “cutting” when your goal is crowded. Have no trepidation about cutting emphatically, despite the proximity of opponents. We never considered a deliberate blockade and ram deserving of fairer play than we got. If opponents choose to impede the freedom of your crossse in cutting, let them take the consequences as on the field. They generally give the goal-keeper short swift shots: the keeper consequently should stop balls regardless of opponents near. You cannot afford to be generous, and risk defeat.
When balls are thrown from either angle, leave as little of your goal exposed as possible. If “Home” closes in, he may strike away your crosse as you stop the ball. Whenever you are likely to be checked, invariably “cut.”
Always have both hands on the crosse when stopping any ball.
Special Practice.—If a club expects to have a reliable goal-keeper, it must give him special practical training, which he cannot get by the usual play on the field, or the little practice of ordinary games.
The very best, and equally good for all parties, is to place the flags in the centre of the field, to radiate players from them, at different distances,—as seen in the following diagram,—with three or four balls, and give it to goal-keeper hot and heavy. Begin by long shots, closing into the goal gradually, until one ball will be sufficient to keep up a succession of tips and throws, that will make a goal-keeper active on his pins. We have found an hour's such practice more benefit than a month's ordinary play. Goal-keeper turns around and changes position rapidly to meet front and rear balls. They should be thrown from every angle and with diffierent degrees of force. Whenever he stops the ball, he throws it to either front or rear. The throwers take their turn, if they have only one ball.
| 4 | 2 | ||||
| 5 | 1 | 3 | |||
| G. K. | |||||
| B | A | D | |||
| C | E | ||||
The ball should be thrown in every possible way. It is excellent practice to have one or two good throwers aim in succession at the following points of your body, or on a level with them.
| 1. Head, or about it. | 2. Breast. |
| 3. Stomach. | 4. Knee. |
| 5. Ankle. | |
A word, to players, about taunting or carping a goal-keeper, when he happens to let the ball in. Consider the number of balls missed out in the field, where there is no great responsibility to make one nervous about stopping them. Consider the entirety of this responsibility upon the keeper, and the common reluctance to assume it. Put yourself in his place for one match, and trust me your depreciation will vanish. We doubt if any one can take a defeat more to heart than the goal-keeper who lets the ball through. No bitterer pill can he swallow. Sooner would he be maimed and smashed if he could thereby save game. Whose crest falls most when the men come off a lost field? Who, metaphorically, wears most willow?
We knew a goal-keeper, whose crosse never stood hard balls. Finally, in desperation, he wove himself one; doubly twisted the strings and terwove them with wire! It was far too heavy and failed completely; and was broken by him, under foot, in anguish, after the loss of two games in succession at a match.
A word to goal-keeper. You must make up your mind, to endure reproaches patiently, and defeat bravely. Study to succeed; and, believe us, goal-keeping is a post worthy of practice, and infinitely more responsible in a hard-pressed match than all others. When the ball is sent whizzing outside of the goal, and your opponents shout “game,” when it is not game, we hope you will not feel as vexed as we do. It jars on our nerves like a false check to an old chess-player.
We have often let balls through and failed to practice what we preach; but we feel that if we had our goal-keeping life to live over again, we would insist upon special practice; and with a month’s such training, we believe we would defy anyone to put the ball in. Of late, however, there has been encouragement shown to dangerous throws at goal, such as the throw from the shoulder; and notwithstanding that these methods of play have caused accidents, and have made several good players give up playing altogether, they are still in vogue. No goal-keeper can possibly count upon safely stopping them; and if they are not prohibited, in course of time there will be few goal-keepers without smashed faces, and Lacrosse will surely degenerate.
We feel we cannot better bring this book to an end, than by beseeching players not to cultivate rough and dangerous methods of play, merely because they are successful. If it is unfair and wrong in Cricket and other sports, why not in Lacrosse?—and where is the honor of taking advantage of little imperfections in the laws, and resorting to force, instead of cultivating accuracy and skill. Particularly at goal, a man wants to be shown fair play, or no good man will occupy that position. If you expect goal-keeper to restrain his desire to go out on the field, and lose the pleasures of a run, give him fair play in his own position. With a spirit of this kind, and an earnest desire to popularize fair play, in every part, our national game can never die; and the boast of an enthusiastic friend of ours will be fulfilled,—that one day “the sun will never set on our flags!”