Lands of the Saracen

by Bayard Taylor

ancient cedar trees in the forest of lebanon

 

THE

 

LANDS OF THE SARACEN;

 

OR

 

PICTURES OF PALESTINE, ASIA MINOR
SICILY AND SPAIN

 

BY

 

BAYARD TAYLOR.

 

 

NEW YORK:
G. P. PUTNAM, 506 BROADWAY.

---

1859

 

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, by
G. P. PUTNAM & CO.,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District f
New York.

 

——————

R. CRAIGHEAD,
Printer, Stereotyper, and Electrotyper,
Carton Building,
81, 83, and 85 Centre Street.

 

TO

 

WASHINGTON IRVING,

This book—the chronicle of my travels through lands once occupied by the Saracens—naturally dedicates itself to you, who, more than any other American author, have revived the traditions, restored the history, and illustrated the character of that brilliant and heroic people. Your cordial encouragement confirmed me in my design of visiting the East, and making myself familiar with Oriental life; and though I bring you now but imperfect returns, I can at least unite with you in admiration of a field 80 rich in romantic interest, and indulge the hope that I may one day pluck from it fruit instead of blossoms. In Spain, I came upon your track, and I should hesitate to exhibit my own gleanings where you have harvested, were it not for the belief that the rapid sketches I have given will but enhance, by the contrast, the charm of your finished picture.

BAYARD TAYLOR.

CONTENTS

 

CHAPTER I.
LIFE IN A SYRIAN QUARANTINE.
Voyage from Alexandria to Beyrout — Landing at Quarantine — The Guardiano — Our Quarters — Our Companions — Famine and Feasting — The Morning — The Holy Man of Timbuctoo — Sunday in Quarantine — Islamism — We are Registered — Love through a Grating — Trumpets — The Mystery Explained — Delights of Quarantine — Oriental vs. American Exaggeration — A Discussion of Politics — Our Release — Beyrout — Preparations for the Pilgrimage	17
CHAPTER II.
THE COAST OF PALESTINE.
The Pilgrimage Commences — The Muleteers — The Mules — The Donkey — Journey to Sidon — The Foot of Lebanon — Pictures — The Ruins of Tyre — A Wild Morning — Th«e Tyrian Surges — Climbing the Ladder of Tyre — Panorama of the Bay of Acre — Tht Plain of Esdraelon — Camp in a Garden — Acre — the Shore of the Bay — Haifa — Mount Carmel and its Monastery — A Deserted Coast — The Ruins of Cæsarea — The Scenery of Palestine — We become Robbers — El Haram — Wrecks — the Harbor and Town of Jaffa	32
CHAPTER III.
FROM JAFFA TO JERUSALEM.
The Garden of Jaffa — Breakfast at a Fountain — The Plain of Sharon — The Ruined Mosque of Ramleh — A Judean Landscape — The Streets of Ramleh — Am I in Palestine? — A Heavenly Morning — The Land of Milk and Honey — Entering the Hill-Country — The Pilgrim's Breakfast — The Father of Lies — A Church of the Crusaders — The Agriculture of the Hills — The Valley of Elah — Day-Dreams — The Wilderness — The Approach — We See the Holy City	48
CHAPTER IV.
THE DEAD SEA AND THE RIVER JORDAN.
Bargaining for a Guard — Departure from Jerusalem — The Hill of Offence — Bethany — The Grotto of Lazarus — The Valley of Fire — Scenery of the Wilderness — The Hills of Engaddi — The shore of the Dead Sea — A Bituminous Bath — Gallop to the Jordan — A watch for Robbers — The Jordan — Baptism — The Plains of Jerich — The Fountain of Elisha — The Mount of Temptation — Return to Jerusalem	60
CHAPTER V.
THE CITY OF CHRIST.
Modern Jerusalem — The Site of the City — Mount Zion — Mount Moriah — The Temple — The Valley of Jehosaphat — The Olives of Gethsemane — The Mount of Olives — Moslem Tradition — Panorama from the Summit — The Interior of the City — The Population — Missions and Missionaries — Christianity in Jerusalem — Intolerance — The Jews of Jerusalem — The Face of Christ — The Church of the Holy Sepulchre — The Holy of Holies — The Sacred Localities — Visions of Christ — The Mosque of Omar — The Holy Man of Timbuctoo — Preparations for Departure	72
CHAPTER VI.
THE HILL-COUNTRY OF PALESTINE.
Leaving Jerusalem — The Tombs of the Kings — El Bireh — The Hill-Country — First View of Mount Hermon — The Tomb of Joseph — Ebal and Gerizim — The Gardens of Nablous — The Samaritans — The Sacred Book — A Scene in the Synagogue — Mentor and Telemachus — Ride to Samaria — The Ruins of Sebaste — Scriptural Landscapes — Halt at Genin — The Plain of Esdraelon — Palestine and California — The Hills of Nazareth — Accident — Fra Joachim — The Church of the Virgin — The Shrine of the Annunciation — The Holy Places	88
CHAPTER VII.
THE COUNTRY OF GALILEE.
Departure from Nazareth — A Christian Guide — Ascent of Mount Tabor — Wallachian Hermits — The Panorama of Tabor — Ride to Tiberias — A Bath in Genesareth — The Flowers of Galilee — The Mount of Beatitude — Magdala — Joseph's Well — Meeting with a Turk — The Fountain of the Salt-Works — The Upper Valley of the Jordan — Summer Scenery — The Rivers of Lebanon — Tell el-Kadi — An Arcadian Region— The Fountains of Banias	103
CHAPTER VIII.
CROSSING THE ANTI-LEBANON.
The Harmless Guard — Cæsarea Philippi — The Valley of the Druses — The Sides of Mount Hermon — An Alarm — Threading a Defile — Distant view of Djebel Hauaran — Another Alarm — Camp at Katana — We Ride into Damascus	115
CHAPTER IX.
PICTURES OF DAMASCUS.
Damascus from the Anti-Lebanon — Entering the City — A Diorama of Bazaars — An Oriental Hotel — Our Chamber — The Bazaars — Pipes and Coffee — The Rivers of Damascus — Palaces of the Jews — Jewish Ladies — A Christian Gentleman — The Sacred Localities — Damascus Blades — The Sword of Haroun Al-Raschid — An Arrival from Palmyra	120
CHAPTER X.
THE VISIONS OF HASHEESH. —	133
CHAPTER XI.
A DISSERTATION ON BATHING AND BODIES. —	149
CHAPTER XII.
BAALBEC AND LEBANON.
Departure from Damascus — The Fountains of the Pharpar — Pass of the Anti-Lebanon — Adventure with the Druses — The Range of Lebanon — The Demon of Hasheesh departs — Impressions of Baalbec — The Temple of the Sun — Titanic Masonry — The Ruined Mosque — Camp on Lebanon — Rascality of the Guide — The Summit of Lebanon — The Sacred Cedars — The Christians of Lebanon — An Afternoon in Eden — Rugged Travel — We Reach the Coast — Return to Beyrout	161
CHAPTER XIII.
PIPES AND COFFEE. —	178
CHAPTER XIV.
JOURNEY TO ANTIOCH AND ALEPPO.
Change of Plans — Routes to Baghdad — Asia Minor — We sail from Beyrout — Yachting on the Syrian Coast — Tartus and Latakiyeh — The Coasts of Syria — The Bay of Suediah — The Mouth of the Orontes — Landing — The Garden of Syria — Ride to Antioch — The Modern City — The Plains of the Orontes — Remains of the Greek Empire — The Ancient Road — The Plain of Keftin — Approach to Aleppo	186
CHAPTER XV.
LIFE IN ALEPPO.
Our Entry into Aleppo — We are conducted to a House — Our Unexpected Welcome — The Mystery Explained — Aleppo — Its Name — Its Situation — The Trade of Aleppo — The Christians — The Revolt of 1850 — Present Appearance of the City — Visit to Osman Pasha — The Citadel — View from the Battlements — Society in Aleppo — Etiquette and Costume — Jewish Marriage Festivities — A Christian Marriage Procession — Ride around the Town — Nightingales — The Aleppo Button — A Hospital for Cats — Ferhat Fasha	196
CHAPTER XVI.
THROUGH THE SYRIAN GATES.
An Inauspicious Departure — The Ruined Church of St. Simon — The Plain of Antioch — A Turcoman Encampment — Climbing Akma Dagh — The Syrian Gates — Scanderoon — An American Captain — Revolt of the Koords — We take a Guard — The Field of Issus — The Robber-Chief, Kutchuk All — A Deserted Town — A Land of Gardens	215
CHAPTER XVII.
ADANA AND TARSUS.
The Black Gate — The Plain of Cilicia — A Koord Village — Missis — Ciliclan Scenery — Arrival at Adana — Three days in Quarantine — We receive Pratique — A Landscape — The Plain of Tarsus — The River Cydnus — A Vision of Cleopatra — Tarsus and its Environs — The Duniktash — The Moon of Ramazan	226
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE PASS OF MOUNT TAURUS.
We enter the Taurus — Turcomans — Forest Scenery — the Palace of Pan — Khan Mezarluk — Morning among the Mountains — The Gorge of the Cydnus — The Crag of the Fortress — The Cilician Gate — Deserted Forts — A Sublime Landscape — The Gorge of the Sihoon — The Second Gate — Camp in the Defile — Sunrise — Journey up the Sihoon — A Change of Scenery — A Pastoral Valley — Kolü Kushla — A Deserted Khan — A Guest in Ramazan — Flowers — The Plain of Karamania — Barren Hills — The Town of Eregli — The Hadji again	236
CHAPTER XIX.
THE PLAINS OF KARAMANIA.
The Plains of Karamania — Afternoon Heat — A Well — Volcanic Phenomona — Karamania — A Grand Ruined Khan — Moonlight Picture — A Landscape of the Plains — Mirages — A Short Interview — The Village of Ismil — Third Day on the Plains — Approach to Konia	250
CHAPTER XX.
SCENES IN KONIA.
Approach to Konia — Tomb of Hazret Mevlana — Lodgings in a Khan — An American Luxury — A Night-Scene in Ramazan — Prayers in the Mosque — Remains of the Ancient City — View from the Mosque — The Interior — A Leaning Minaret — The Diverting History of the Muleteers	256
CHAPTER XXI.
THE HEART OF ASIA MINOR.
Scenery of the Hills — Ladik, the Ancient Laodicea — The Plague of Gad-Flies — Camp at Ilgün — A Natural Warm Bath — The Gad-Flies Again — A Summer Landscape — Ak-Sheher — The Base of Sultan Dagh — The Fountain of Midas — A Drowsy Journey — The Town of Bolawadün	265
CHAPTER XXII.
THE FORESTS OF PHRYGIA.
The Frontier of Phrygia — Ancient Quarries and Tombs — We Enter the Pine Forests — A Guard-House — Encampments of the Turcomans — Pastoral Scenery — A Summer Village — The Valley of the Tombs — Rock Sepulchres of the Phrygian Kings — The Titan'a Camp — The Valley of Kümbeh — A Land of Flowers — Turcoman Hospitality — The Exiled Effendis — The Old Turcoman — A Glimpse of Arcadia — A Landscape — Interested Friendship — The Valley of the Pursek — Arrival at Kiutahya	274
CHAPTER XXIII.
KIUTAHYA, AND THE RUINS OF ŒZANI.
Entrance into Kiutahya — The New Khan — An Unpleasant Discovery — Kiutahya — The Citadel — Panorama from the Walls — The Gorge of the Mountains — Camp in a Meadow — The Valley of the Rhyndacus — Chavdür — The Ruins of Œzani — The Acropolis and Temple — The Theatre and Stadium — Ride down the Valley — Camp at Daghj-Köi	290
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE MTSIAN OLYMPUS.
Journey Down the Valley — The Plague of Grasshoppers — A Defile — The Town of Tauehanlü — The Camp of Famine — We leave the Rhyndacus — The Base of Olympus — Primeval Forests — The Guard-House — Scenery of the Summit — Forests of Beech — -Saw-Mills — Descent of the Mountain — The View of Olympus — Morning — The Land of Harvest — Aineghiöl — A Showery Ride — The Plain of Brousa — The Structure of Olympus — We reach Brousa — The Tent is Furled	300
CHAPTER XXV.
BROUSA AND THE SEA OF MARMORA.
The City of Brousa — Return to Civilization — Storm — The Kalputcha Hammam — A Hot Bath — A Foretaste of Paradise — The Streets and Bazaars of Brousa — The Mosque — The Tombs of the Ottoman Sultans — Disappearance of the Katurgees — We start for Moudania — The Sea of Marmora — Moudania — Passport Difficulties — A Greek Caǐque — Breakfast with the Fishermen — A Torrid Voyage — The Princes' Islands — Prinkipo — Distant View of Constantinople — We enter the Golden Horn	312
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE NIGHT OF PREDESTINATION.
Constantinople in Ramazan — The Origin of the Fast — Nightly Illuminations — The Night of Predestination — The Golden Horn at Night — Illumination of the Shores — The Cannon of Constantinople — A Fiery Panorama — The Sultan's Caǐque — Close of the Celebration — A Turkish Mob — The Dancing Dervishes	324
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE SOLEMNITIES OF BAIRAM.
The Appearance of the New Moon — The Festival of Bairam — The Interior of the Seraglio — The Pomp of the Sultan's Court — Reschid Pasha — The Sultan's Dwarf — Arabian Stallions — The Imperial Guard — Appearance of the Sultan — The Inner Court — Return of the Procession — The Sultan on his Throne — The Homage of the Pashas — An Oriental Picture — Kissing the Scarf — The Shekh el-Islam — The Descendant of the Caliphs — Bairam Commences	332
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE MOSQUES OF CONSTANTINOPLE.
Sojurn at Constantinople — Semi-European Character of the City — The Mosque — Procuring a Firman — The Seraglio — The Library — The Ancient Throne-Room — Admittance to St. Sophia — Magnificence of the Interior — The Marvellous Dome — The Mosque of Sultan Achmed — The Sulemanye — Great Conflagrations — Political Meaning of the Fires — Turkish Progress — Decay of the Ottoman Power	343
CHAPTER XXIX.
FAREWELL TO THE ORIENT — MALTA.
Embarcation — Farewell to the Orient — Leaving Constantinople — A Wreck — The Dardanelles — Homeric Scenery — Smyrna Revisited — The Grecian Isles — Voyage to Malta — Detention — La Valetta — The Maltese — The Climate — A Boat for Sicily	355
CHAPTER XXX.
THE FESTIVAL OF ST. AGATHA.
Departure from Malta — The Speronara — Our Fellow-Passengers — The First Night on Board — Sicily — Scarcity of Provisions — Beating in the Calabrian Channel — The Fourth Morning — The Gulf of Catania — A Sicilian Landscape — The Anchorage — The Suspected List — The Streets of Catania — Biography of St. Agatha — The Illuminations — The Procession of the Veil — The Biscari Palace — The Antiquities of Catania — The Convent of St. Nicola	363
CHAPTER XXXI.
THE ERUPTION OF MOUNT ETNA.
The Mountain Threatens — The Signs Increase — We Leave Catania — Gardens Among the Lava — Etna Labors — Aci Reale — The Groans of Etna — The Eruption — Gigantic Tree of Smoke — Formation of the New Crater — We Lose Sight of the Mountain — Arrival at Messina — Etna is Obscured — Departure	375
CHAPTER XXXII.
GIBRALTAR.
Unwritten Links of Travel — Departure from Southampton — The Bay of Biscay — Cintra — Trafalgar — Gibraltar at Midnight — Landing — Search for a Palm-Tree — A Brilliant Morning — The Convexity of the Earth — Sun-Worship — The Rock	383
CHAPTER XXXIII.
CADIZ AND SEVILLE.
Voyage to Cadiz — Landing — The City — Its Streets — The Women of Cadiz — Embarkation for Seville — Scenery of the Guadalquivir — Custom House Examination — The Guide — The Streets of Seville — The Giralda — The Cathedral of Seville — The Alcazar — Moorish Architecture — Pilate's House — Morning View from the Giralda — Old Wine — Murillos — My Last Evening in Seville	391
CHAPTER XXXIV.
JOURNEY IN A SPANISH DILIGENCE.
Spanish Diligence Lines — Leaving Seville — An Unlucky Start — Alcalà of the Bakers — Dinner at Carmona — A Dehesa — The Mayoral and his Team — Ecija — Night Journey — Cordova — The Cathedral-Mosque — Moorish Architecture — The Sierra Morena — A Rainy Journey — A Chapter of Accidents — Baylen — The Fascination of Spain — Jaen — The Vega of Granada	403
CHAPTER XXXV.
GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA.
Mateo Ximenez, the Younger — The Cathedral of Granada — A Monkish Miracle — Catholic Shrines — Military Cherubs — The Royal Chapel — The Tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella — Chapel of San Juan de Dios — The Albaycin — View or the Vega — The Genera life — The Alhambra — Torra de la Vela — The Walls and Towers — A Visit to Old Mateo — The Court of the Fish-pond — The Halls of the Alhambra — Character of the Architecture — Hall of the Abencerrages — Hall of the Two Sisters — The Moorish Dynasty in Spain	414
CHAPTER XXXVI.
THE BRIDLE-ROADS OF ANDALUSIA.
Change of Weather — Napoleon and his Horses — Departure from Granada — My Guide, José Garcia — His Domestic Troubles — The Tragedy of the Umbrella — The Vow against Aguardiente — Crossing the Vega — The Sierra Nevada — The Baths of Alhama — "Woe is Me, Alhama!" — The Valley of the River Velez — Velez Malaga — The Coast Road — The Fisherman and his Donkey — Malaga — Summer Scenery — The Story of Don Pedro, without Fear and without Care — The Field of Monda — A Lonely Venta	427
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA.
Orange Valleys — Climbing the Mountains — José's Hospitality — El Burgo — The Gate of the Wind — The Cliff and Cascades of Ronda — The Mountain Region — Traces of the Moors — Haunts of Robbers — A Stormy Ride — The Inn at Gaucin — Bad News — A Boyish Auxiliary — Descent from the Mountains — The Ford of the Guadiaro — Our Fears Relieved — The Cork Woods — Ride from San Roque to Gibraltar — Parting with José — Travelling in Spain — Conclusion	489