Life in Mexico/Volume 2/Contents

by Calderón de la Barca

 

 

CONTENTS.

 

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LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH.
Fête-day — Friendly hint — Precautions — General tranquillity — President in San Agustin — Revisit Museum — Ancient manuscripts — Scidpture — Bronze bust, &c. — Freshness after rain — Ball at the French Minister's — Pamphlet — Gutierrez Estrada — His character — Concealment — Mexicalsingo — Minister of the Treasury — Archbishop's permission — Paintings — Mexican Painters — Santa Teresa — Description of the interior — The Penitences — Tortures — Disciplines, &c. — Supper — Profane ballads — Monasteries — San Francisco — Padre Prior — Soldiers and Friars,	1
LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH.
Dia de Muertos — Leave Mexico — Herraderos — San Cristobal — Tunas — Plaza de toros — Throwing the laso — Accidents — Rustic breakfast — Country fare — Baked meat — Indian market — Buried bull — Mountain — Solitary hacienda — Reyes — Mules marked — Return — Queen of Spain's birth-day — Diplomatic dinner,	17
LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH.
Virgin of Cavadonga — Santo Domingo — Decorations and music — Daguerreotype — Weekly soirées — An arrival — An earthquake — Honorable Mr. Broken furniture — Dias — Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe — Party to the Desierto — Itzcuintepolzotli — Inn of Guajimalco — Ruined convent — Its origin — Déjeuné á la fourchette — Splendid scenery — Vow to the Virgin — Musical mass — Tacuba — Ride with the Prior,	27
LETTER THE THIRTIETH.
Christmas day — Kalends and mass — Amateur performances — Solo — Posadas — Wandering of the Holy Family — Nacimiento — Crowded party — French cooks — Mexican cook — State of household — New Year's day — Mass — Dirtiness of the churches, &c. — Comparisons — Private chapels — English club — Preparations for journey,	37
LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST.
Leave Mexico — Cuernavaca — Tierra Caliente — Atlacamulco — Orange groves — Sugar cane — Annual produce — Will of Cortes — Description — Coffee plantation — Scorpions — List of venomous reptiles — Acapansingo — Doubts and difficulties — A decision,	47
LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND.
Leave Atlacamulco — Assemble by star-light — Balmy atmosphere — Flowers and trees of the tropics — The formidable barrancas — Breakfast under the trees — Force of the sun — Meacatlan — Hospitality — Profitable estate — Leave Meacatlan — Beautiful village — Musical bells — Ride by moonlight — Sugar fires — Cocoyotla — Old gentleman — Supper — Orairge trees and cocoas — Delicious water — Sugar estates — A scorpion — Set off for the cave — Morning ride — Dangerous path,	58
LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD.
Cave of Cacahuamilpa — Superstition — Long-bearded goat — Portal — Vestibule — Fantastic forms — Breakfast — Pine torches — Noble hall — Stalactites and stalagmites — Egyptian pyramids — Double gallery — Wonderful formations — Corridor — Frozen landscape — Amphitheatre — World in chaos — Skeleton — Wax lights — Hall of angels — Return — Distant light — Indian — Alcalde — Cautlamilpas — Rancho — Return to Cocoyotla — Chapel — Meacatlan — Eclipse of the moon — Benighted travellers — Indian village — El Puente— Return to Atlacamulco,	68
LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH.
Ride by star-light — Fear of robbers — Tropical wild flowers — Stout escort — Hautepec — Hacienda of Cocoyoc — A fire — Three thousand orange trees — Coffee mills, &c. — Variety of tropical fruits — Prodigality of nature — Casa-sano — Celebrated reservoir — Ride to Santa Clara — A philosopher — A scorpion — Leave Santa Clara — Dangerous barranca — Colon — Agreeable house — Civil administrador — San Nicolas — Solitude — Franciscan friar — Rainy morning — Pink turban — Arrival at Atlisco — Cypress — Department of Puebla — Volcanoes — Doña Marina — Verses — Popocateptl — Cholula — Great pyramid — Arrival at Puebla,	83
LETTER THE THIRTY-FIFTH.
Theatre — Portmanteaus — Visiters — Houses of Puebla — Fine arts — Paseo — Don N. Ramos Arispe — Bishop — Cotton factories — Don Esteban Antuñano — Bank of Avio — United States machinery — Accidents — Difficulties — Shipwrecks — Detentions — Wonderful perseverance — "La Constancia Mejicana" Hospital — Prison — El Carmen — Paintings — Painted floors — Angels — Cathedral — Gold and jewels — A comedy — Bishop's palace — Want of masters,	99
LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH.
Concert — Diligence — Leave Puebla — Escort — View from the cathedral towers — Black forest — History of the crosses — Tales of murder — An alarm — Report of a skirmish — Rio Frio — Law concerning robbers — Their moderation — Return to Mexico — Carnival ball — Improvement in dress,	110
LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH.
Distinguished men — Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna and Victoria — Anecdote — Señor Pedraza — Señor Gutierrez Estrada — Count Cortina — Señor Gorostiza — Don Carlos Bustamante — "Mornings in the Alameda" — Don Andrés Quintana Roo — Don Lucas Alaman — General Moran — General Almonte — Señor Cañedo — Señors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores — Doctor Valentin — Don Francisco Tagle — Eight revolutions,	120
LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH.
New minister — San Angel — Profitable pulque estate — The village — Surrounding scenery — The Indians — The padre — The climate — Holy week in the country — Dramatic representations — Coyohuacan — The Pharisees — Image of the Saviour — Music and dresses — Procession — Catholicism amongst the Indians — Strange tradition — Paul the Fifth — Contrast between a Mexican and a New England village — Love of fireworks — Ferdinand the Seventh — Military ball — Drapeaux,	130
LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH.
Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan — Hernan Cortes — His last wishes — Padres Camilas — Old church — Procession — Representation of the taking of Christ — Curate's sermon under the trees — A religious drama — Good Friday — Portable pulpit — Heat — Booths — Religious procession — Simon the Cyrenian — Costumes — Curate's sermon — Second discourse — Sentence pronounced by Pontius Pilate — Descent from the cross — Procession of the Angels — Funeral hymn — The pesame to the Virgin — Sermon — "Sweet Kitty Clover" — Music in Mexico — Anecdote,	141
LETTER THE FORTIETH.
Balloon — San Bartolo — Indian women — A beauty — Different castes — Indians — Their character, &c. — Those of noble race — Ball at the French minister's — Abecilla — Danger of walking unattended — Shooting party — A murder — Robbery of a farm house — Discomfited robber captain — The "Zambos" — Letters and visiters — Country life in Mexico,	153
LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST.
Gambling — Fête at San Agustin — Breakfast at San Antonio — Report — Cock-fight — Ladies — Private gambling — A vaca — The Calvario — Bonnets — Dinner — Evening ball — Mingling of classes — Copper tables — Dresses and decorations — Indian bankers, male and female — Decorum — Habit — Holders of banks — Female gambler — Robbery — Anecdote — Bet — Casa de Moneda — Leave San Angel — Celebration — Address — Cross and Diploma — Reply — Presentation of a sword — Discourses and addresses — Reflections,	168
LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND.
Italian opera — Artists, male and female — Prima Donna — Lucia de Lammermoor — Some disappointment — Second representation — Improvement — Romeo and Giulietta — La Ricci — La Señora Cesari — The mint — False coining — Repetition of Lucia — Procession by night — A Spanish beauty — Discriminating audience — A little too simple — Gold embroidery — Santiago — Pilgrims — Old Indian custom — Soirée — Mexico by moonlight — Mysterious figure — Archbishop — Viceroy,	190
LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD.
Revillagigedo — The false merchant and the lady — The Viceroy, the unjust Spaniard, the Indian, and the golden ounces — Horrible murder — Details — Oath — Country family — The spot of blood — The mother unknowingly denounces her son — Arrest of the three — Confession — Execution — The Viceroy fulfils his pledge — Paving of the streets — Severity to the monks — Solitary damsel — Box on the ear — Pension — Morning concert — NewMinister — "Street of the sad Indian" — Traditions — A farewell audience — Inscription on a tomb,	203
LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH.
Agitation — Storm — Revolution — Manifesto — Resembling a game of chess — Position of the pieces — Appearance of the city — Firing — State of parties — Comparisons — "Comicios" — The people — Congress — Santa Anna — Amnesty offered — Roaring of cannon — Proclamation — Time to look at home — The will of the nation — Different feelings — Judge's house destroyed — The mint in requisition — Preparations — Cannonading — "Los Enanos,"	222
LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH.
Leave Mexico — Travelling equipage — San Xavier — Fine hacienda — Millionaires — Well-educated ladies — Garden, &c. — Tlanapantla — Indian hut — Mrs. Ward — Doña Margarita — The pronunciamiento — False step — Santa Anna in Puebla — Neutrality — General Paredes — President in Tlanapantla — Tired troops — Their march — Their return — Curate's house — Murder — General Paredes in the Lecheria — President in Tlanapantla — A meeting — Return of the President and his troops — General Paredes and his men — Santa Anna in Tacubaya — A junction — President in Mexico — Allied sovereigns — Plan — Articles — President declares for federalism — Resigns — Results — Hostilities — Capitulation — Triumphal entry — Te Deum — New ministry,	235
LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH.
Santa Mónica — Solidity — Old paintings — Anachronism — Babies and nurses from the Cuna — Society — Funds — Plan — Indian nurses — Carmelite convent — Midnight warning — Old villages and churches — Indian bath — San Matéo — The Lecheria — Fertility — Molino Viejo — Dulness — Religious exercises — Return to Mexico — Mexican hotel — New generals — Disturbances — General Bustamante — Inconvenience — Abuses in the name of Liberty — Verses — Independence celebrated,	256
LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH.
Opera — Santa Anna and his suite — His appearance — Belisario — Solitary "viva!" — Brilliant house — Military dictatorship — San Juan de Dios — Hospital de Jesus — Cuna — Old woman and baby — Different apartments — Acordada — Junta — Female prisoners — Chief crime — Travaux forcés — Children — Male prisoners — Forçats — Soldiers gambling — Chapel — Confessional — Insane hospital — Frenchmen — Different kinds of insanity — Kitchen — Dinner — Insane monk — "Black chamber" — Soldiers — College — Santa Anna's leg — Projects — All Saints — Señora P——a — Leave-takings,	272
LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH.
Leave Mexico — Diligence — Indian padre — Brandy-drinking female — Bad roads — Beautiful view — Escort — Good breakfast — Crosses — Robber's head — Select party — Lerma — Valley of Toluca — Hacienda — Toluca — Count de B—— and Mr. W—— The comandante — Gay supper — Colonel Y—— Day at Toluca — Journey to La Gabia — Heat and hunger — Pleasant quarters — Princely estate — El Pilar — A zorillo — A wolf — Long journey — Tortillas — Count de B—— State of Michoacan — Forest scenery — Trojes of Angangueo — Comfort	300
LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH.
Leave Trojes — Beautiful territory — Tarrascan Indians — Taximaroa — Distressed condition — An improvement — Cold morning — Querendaro — Fine breed of horses — San Bartolo — Produce — Country proprietors — Colear — Ride to Morelia — Wild ducks — Sunset — Cathedral bell — Cuincho — Curates Morelos, Matamoros and Hidalgo — Warm baths — Handsome girls — Starving travellers — Lost mules — Lancers — Night on a heap of straw — Mules fotmd — Tzintzontzan — King Calsonsi — Pascuaro — Kind reception — Bishop — Robbers — Curu — Night in a barn — Mountain — Uruapa — Enchanting scenery — Pleasant family — Jorullo,	317
LETTER THE FIFTIETH.
Indian dresses — Saints — Music — Union of tropical and European vegetation — Old Customs — Falls of the Sararaqui — Silkworms — Lidian painting — Beautiful heroine — Leave Uruapa — Tziracuaratiro — Talkative Indian — Alcalde's house — Pascuaro —: Old church — Mosaic work — The lake — The cave — Fried fish — Rich Indians — Convent — Cuincho — Darkness — Morelia — Alameda — Cathedral — Silver — Waxworks — College — Wonderful fleas,	346
LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST.
San Bartolo — Mass — Market — Rancheros — San Andrés — Insanity — Rancho — House of Don Carlos Heimbürger — Wild scenery — German songs — Las Millas — Leavetaking — Storm — Rainbow — El Pilar — La Gabia — Toluca — News — Copper pronunciamento — Return to Mexico — General Moran — Funeral obsequies — New theatre — Cock's mass — Santa Clara — Santa Fé prisoners — New year,	371
LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND.
Last day in Mexico — Theatre — Santa Anna — French minister's — Parting — Diligence — Last look of Mexico — Fatigue — Robbers — Escort — Second impressions — Baths at Jalapa — Vera Cruz — Some account of San Juan de Ulua — Siege of 1825 — Siege of 1838 — General Bustamante — Theatre — Of the north winds,	391
LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD.
Sail in the Tyrian — Norther off Tampico — The bar — The river Panueo — The Pilote — The shore — Alligator — "Paso de Doña Cecilia" — Tampico — Spanish consul's house — Society — Navigation — Banks of the Panueo — Extraordinary inoculation — The "glorieta" — Leave Tampico — Furious norther — Voyage — Arrival at Havana,	405
LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH.
Havana — The carnival — The Elssler — La Angosta — Ingenio of Count V——a — General Bustamante — Lord Morpeth — Leave Havana — Voyage in the Medway — Old friends — Return to the United States,	420
GLOSSARY.	425