Life with the Esquimaux/Volume 1/Chapter II
CHAPTER II.
Immediately after we had dropped anchor, great excitement reigned on board. Some of us at once prepared for the shore, dressed in accordance with our home fashion of forty days ago, the captain and I intending to visit the governor. On landing, my heart leaped with joy as I touched the firm earth, and I could not help taking in my hands some of the rocky fragments on the beach, and saying, "Thank God, I am at last on arctic land, where I have so long wished to be! Greenland's mountains, I greet you!"
As Captain Budington had met the governor before, my introduction to him was easy. It was in the afternoon when our visit took place, and Governor Elberg received us with much kindly warmth. But the events that occurred during our stay were so various, and have been so minutely narrated in my private diary day by day, that I must try and introduce them as much together as I possibly can, first giving a brief sketch of what relates to Holsteinborg and its vicinity.
The early history of Greenland is generally well known, yet a brief résumé of it may not be uninteresting to the reader. In many respects it borders upon romance, as indeed all the old Scandinavian chronicles do, but well-attested facts state nearly as follows:
About the middle of the tenth century, one Gunbiörn, an inhabitant of the previously-settled Iceland, discovered land to the west, and, on returning, made a report of what he had seen. Soon afterward, in the year 983, a person known as "Eric the Red," was sentenced by the Icelanders to banishment for the crime of manslaughter, and he determined to visit the country Gunbiörn had discovered. Sailing westward in a small vessel, he arrived at the new land, and coasted it toward the south; then turning a point now known as Cape Farewell, he came to an island, where he passed his first winter. He then remained three years exploring the coasts, and finally returned to Iceland, where he gave such a report of "Greenland," as he termed the new country, that it induced many of the colonists of both sexes to go back with him. Only some of these reached their destination, the rest turning back or perishing by the way. A colony was now formed, and communication kept up with Iceland, and even with Norway. Leif, the son of Eric, went to the latter place, and, by command of the king, was instructed in the Christian religion, whence he was afterward sent back, attended by a priest, who baptized Eric and all his followers.
In the year 1001, one of the colonists, named Bjorn, was accidentally driven in his ship to the southwest of Greenland, and discovered a new country covered with wood. On his return, Leif fitted out a vessel, and, with Bjorn as pilot, went in search of this new land. He found it as described, and termed it Vinland, which there can be no doubt must have been part of North America, about the latitude of 45°.
Meanwhile the colonists of Greenland increased in number and prosperity. In 1121 Arnold was elected the first bishop, and several churches were built. After this no less than seventeen bishops are known to have been elected from first to last, and the two settlements of East and West Greenland (into which the colonists had divided) numbered about three hundred villages. They had their little barques going from place to place along the western coast so high up as lat. 73°, and even, as is supposed from ancient records and from Runic inscriptions seen there, to the entrance of the present-named Wellington Channel.
For a long time after this the history of these colonists is involved in obscurity. Intercourse with Europe was obstructed about the beginning of the fifteenth century, and whether the colonists were cut off by hordes of the Esquimaux from the north or west, or were destroyed by a pestilence, is yet uncertain. There is, however, a document extant, discovered by Professor Mallet in the papal archives, which seems to warrant the idea of a hostile fleet "of wild heathen" having made a descent upon the colony, fell upon the people, "laid waste the country and its holy buildings with fire and sword, sparing nothing but the small parishes, and carrying captive the wretched inhabitants of both sexes." Nothing, however, has been certainly known of their fate. Only ruins of their churches and convents now remain.
At length, in 1576, Martin Frobisher visited Friesland, now known to be Greenland, on his voyage of discovery to the north-west, but brought to light no particulars concerning the original colonists. Afterward, in 1605, James Hall, an Englishman, under Admiral Lindenow, was sent by Denmark to rediscover them if possible. He succeeded in landing upon the west coast, and communicated with the natives, though nothing more resulted from his visit. Other voyagers touched upon its shores; but not until 1721, when that brave, and good, and truly Christian man, Hans Egede, conceived the project of himself going to Greenland, to spread religion among its natives, was anything permanently effected. Then Greenland soon came into notice, and, at various times, colonies and missionary establishments, under the Danish flag, were formed along its coasts. At present there are thirteen settlements, besides commercial and missionary stations. The most northern official settlement is Upernavik, in lat. 73° N. but there is a fishing establishment, called Tesswisak, some few miles still farther on. Holsteinborg is in lat. 66° 56′ N., long. 53° 42′ W. This latter place was, according to Crantz, the fifth colony begun in Greenland, and first settled in the year 1759. It is one of the most convenient places both for dwelling and trading.
Holsteinborg District begins at North Strömsfiord, and extends for about ninety-two English miles. Its breadth eastward from the sea is also about ninety-two miles. There are four fiords in the district, and the mountains upon it are high, though not so lofty as farther north. The only European who has penetrated far to the eastward through this district is Kielsen, in 1830. He found the land not so mountainous as toward the sea.
The harbour of Holsteinborg is good, and well landlocked. The spring tides are about 12 feet.
The buildings have, as I was told, the best appearance of any in Greenland. They may be thus enumerated:
The governor's house; priest's house; the church; the lieutenant governor's house; the dance-house; school-house; brewing house; the blacksmith's; two warehouses; one cooperage; one "try" house for oil; thirteen Esquimaux houses, Danish built; three turf houses for Esquimaux, and one dead-house, where deceased persons are placed for six days before burial. Graves are dug, even in winter, for burying. Thus the total number of buildings in Holsteinborg amounts to 29.
The population is as follows:
The inhabitants in Holsteinborg District proper number 197; in Kemortusük, 103; in Omanausük, 97; in Sarfangoak, 158; in Itiblik, 108—making a total of 663 souls.
In the town of Holsteinborg there are only ten Europeans, but throughout all Greenland in 1855 they numbered 250. At that date it was estimated there were 9,644 Esquimaux, three-fourths of whom were of Danish blood and the rest pure.
In the Holsteinborg District there are three small schooners, five small boats, and eleven whale-boats. In 1859, which was considered a bad year, only one whale was captured, though sometimes ten and twelve have been caught in a single season. Of reindeer 300 were secured; of seal-blubber, 5,000 lbs.; liver of sharks, 2,000 lbs.; blue fox-skins, 100; white foxskins, 150; eider-down, before cleansing, 500 lbs.; after cleansing, 100 lbs.; and of stockfish—that is, dried codfish unsalted, 4,000 lbs.
I may state that during Governor Elberg's time, since 1850, there have been killed from 5,000 to 6,000 reindeer. Several years ago there were obtained in two years from the Esquimaux about fifty tons of reindeer horn, costing some two skillings, or one cent federal money, per pound; 4,500 lbs. of it were sent home to Copenhagen, but it would not pay freight.
The governor also told me that "whenever the ships were obliged to take home to Copenhagen stone for ballast, they could sell it to no purpose, because it was complained of as rotten." This I found to be generally true. On several mountains I visited, stones exposed to the atmosphere were crumbling. On Mount Cunningham I had satisfactory proof of it. Small mounds of stone that have evidently crumbled off the larger mountains may be seen lying at the base. The winters are doing their levelling work, and doing it rapidly.
There are four midwives. Two have a good medical education, obtained in Copenhagen. They receive $70 (Danish) per year.[1]
The schoolmaster receives per annum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
$125 00 |
Three other teachers each„ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
100 00 |
Three„„„ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
25 00 |
Three„„„ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
10 00 |
Two„„„ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
6 00 |
One of these latter gets six dollars, and teaches his two children—the only two children of his district—to read and write!
Four women, who teach the children "A, B, C's," get each one dollar per year.
The men, sixteen in number, in the employ of government, get each forty to ninety dollars per year, besides provisions for themselves and families. Every fourteen days bread is baked for them.
In the town there are twenty-four stoves—only one to each house; and these stoves require 100 barrels of coal and five fathoms of wood.
There are reckoned to be 1,700 Esquimaux sealers in Greenland, 400 fishers, and one Esquimaux officer (a clerk), whose father was a Dane and the Governor of Lieveley—Goodhavn. In addition, there are of Esquimaux 17 foremen and boatsmen; 22 coopers and blacksmiths; 87 sailors; 15 pensioners, whose business is to look after goats, and who get half rations of beer, pork, meat, and butter, &c. but full rations of peas, barley, &c.
There are also 20 native catechists or missionaries.
The European missionaries and priests number 13 German and 11 Danish.
Of first and second governors there are 31.
Three doctors visit each place one year. There are 36 European clerks; 7 boat-steerers; 28 coopers, carpenters, and blacksmiths; 19 sailors and cooks; and 8 pensioners.
The whole body of missionaries are paid per annum, in Danish money, $16,360; of which amount Government House gives $14,650, and the East India Missions, at the outside, $2,000. For schools and school-books the sum of $6,500 is appropriated.
I now proceed with my personal narrative.
Among the numerous visitors that greeted us on our arrival, I was astonished to find myriads of musquitoes. Little did we expect so warm a reception in the arctic regions. Talk about musquitoes in the States as being numerous and troublesome! Why no man who has not visited the arctic shores in the months of July and August can have a good idea of these Liliputian elephants. In the States the very hum of a musquito is enough to set any one upon his guard. How many a poor soul there has been kept in a state of torment all night by the presence of only two or three musquitoes! But here, in the North, it is a common, every-hour affair to have thousands at one time around you, some buzzing, some drawing the very life-blood from face, hands, arms, and legs, until one is driven to a state approaching madness. Even the clothing worn in the States is no protection here against the huge proboscis with which each lady musquito is armed.
On Monday, July 9th, a laughable circumstance occurred. It consisted in the fact that Esquimaux had managed to outwit Yankee, and thus it was:
Sterry—the sharp Sterry, who understands the Esquimaux language, had been assisting Smith, the third mate, in some "trade" with the natives. Sampson, the pilot, was the man who had come on board, with several others, to see what could be picked up. He was accosted by Smith, and asked if he had any thing to trade; but the reply was that "all had gone." In fact, he had parted with every thing of value in his possession, and that, too, for nominal prices in return. Smith, however, was not satisfied, and again pressed the Esquimaux. At length it occurred to Sampson that he had money, with which he could purchase outright some tobacco. So he asked Smith if he had any to sell. Smith replied, "Yes; how much do you want?" Sampson thereupon drew forth a Danish bill, marked "sex skilling"—a shin plaster—
GREENLAND CURRENCY
Taking the "cussed" bill from his pocket and handing it to Sampson, Smith said, "No good; too little money for four pounds tobacco." Sampson, with honest face, looked Smith in the eye, and replied, "He be good;" which really was true—good for its face, sex skilling, equivalent to about three cents federal coin. But Sterry, who had joined, now insisted, in as good "Husky" (Esquimaux) language as he could command, that "too little money for good deal tobacco," and he held up his finger of one hand, a thumb and all his fingers of the other. Sampson now understood, and woefully but honestly said, "I go get tobacco and bring it back." Smith handed him the bill, but Sampson at once told him to keep it until he should return. "No," said Smith, "take it along with you. I trust you. I see you're honest, and wish to do what is right. It's Sterry's fault," he added, afterwards, "or I should not have been caught so. But, if I never get my tobacco again, I don't care. I've learned a good lesson, and that is, not to deal in 'Husky' bank-stock. I'm now a Jackson man. D—n all banks, except that of Newfoundland, where I hope yet to catch more cod on my way to and from these parts."
Need I say that the Esquimaux had to return on shore very crestfallen with their disappointment? Who would not have been, especially after investing in stocks, as many of them had done? To finish the history of this affair, I may as well add here that, in a few days after this, "Sampson," with all his family and his friends, left Holsteinborg for some other place. Smith therefore became minus four pounds of tobacco, and the "sex skilling" besides! Thus the Esquimaux completely outwitted two of our smart Yankees, and, what is more, did it without the smallest intention of dishonesty at the time. Sterry always declared that he thought the "sex skilling" bill was six Yankee shillings, and both he and Smith acknowledged they were anxious to get some Greenland money to "splice the main brace." Ever afterwards they had frequent reminders from our ship's company of the joke.
Thursday, July 10th, was a most interesting day to me, on account of a visit paid by Captain Budington and myself to Governor Elberg. Leaving the ship, which was anchored half a mile from the landing, we were taken on shore by an Esquimaux boat rowed by natives, and arrived at Government House about 4 p.m. We found him busily engaged with his clerk in preparing an Annual Report for the King of Denmark; but he kindly welcomed us, and, putting aside his labours, escorted us into a private room. Here we soon entered into genial conversation; and a present from Captain Budington of sweet potatoes grown in Florida (never before seen by the governor), with a case of preserved quinces from me, much pleased him.
Hearing that I had on board a copy of McClintock's Voyage, he asked for a loan of it, and I let him have it soon afterward. Captain McClintock, in the account of his voyage, thus speaks of his visit to Holsteinborg in the latter end of April, 1858:—
"We have been visited by the Danish residents—the chief trader or governor, the priest and two others. ... I afterward visited the governor, and found his little wooden house as scrupulously clean and neat as the houses of the Danish residents in Greenland invariably are. The only ornaments about the room were portraits of his unfortunate wife and two children. They embarked at Copenhagen last year to rejoin him, and the ill-fated vessel has never since been heard of. ... This is a grand Danish holiday; the inhabitants are all dressed in their Sunday clothes—at least all who have got a change of garment—and there is both morning and evening service in the small wooden church. ... This is the only part of Greenland where earthquakes are felt. The governor told me of an unusually severe shock which occurred a winter or two ago. He was sitting in his room reading at the time, when he heard a loud noise like the discharge of a cannon. Immediately afterwards a tremulous motion was felt; some glasses upon the table began to dance about, and papers lying on the window-sill fell down. After a few seconds it ceased. He thinks the motion originated at the lake, as it was not felt by some people living beyond it, and that it passed from N.E. to S.W. ... The mountain scenery is really charming. ... The clergyman of Holsteinborg was born in this colony, and has succeeded his father in the priestly office; his wife is the only European female in the colony. Being told that fuel was extremely scarce in the Danish houses, and that the priest's wife was blue with the cold, I sent on shore a present of coals."
The governor invited us to visit the various buildings and the town. We first directed our steps to the general government store, where we saw almost as much variety as in a country store at home. There was a little of every thing, with a good deal of malt, barley, peas, and dry bread, which will keep for years.
In a warehouse near the landing, I noticed large quantities of whale rope, butter, fish, and crackers enough for his whole population (numbering 700 souls) for two years. Every thing was of the most substantial character, and stored in such a large quantity in case the vessel which is annually sent to the colonists from Denmark should be lost. There was also a large supply of deer-skins, seal-skins, water-proof clothing, &c. In a loft over the store I saw some sword-blades, used for cutting blubber! Resolving swords into ploughshares is an old idea, but swords into blubber-cutters is something decidedly new.
While at the store a customer arrived—an Esquimaux. He wanted some sugar and coffee. This was served to him and he paid for it by a Greenland bill of twenty-four skillings, equal to fourteen cents American.
We next visited the blacksmith's shop—a building that looks quite equal to a fine village dwelling-house. Inside was the machine-shop, with long rows of whale gear, harpoons, lances, &c. and three whale guns. Here I saw a cast-iron stove, which the governor said was the kind used by the natives. This stove was filed all over and polished; the stove-pipe, twenty feet long, also of cast iron. Its price was equivalent to $15 Federal money. The blacksmith was a fine-looking, intelligent mechanic.
Our next visit was to the school-house. To enter it we had to stoop much. "He stoops to conquer," was an idea that entered my mind as I thought of the teacher who bends his head on entering that temple of knowledge. The teacher's business is to bend. "As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined." Intelligence and virtue will yet conquer ignorance and vice. Who would not stoop that such a cause—the cause of knowledge—might progress?
On returning to the governor's house, we went into an upper room which overlooks Davis's Straits and the many islands around the entrance of the harbour. Here is the "apothecary's shop," the contents of which the governor himself dispenses as required among the sick natives. Shelves of stationery were also round the room; and in a closet a quantity of eider-down, from which, in 1850, both Dr. Kane and Commodore De Haven had some for their beds. The keys of the government buildings—many of ponderous size—were also kept in a closet here.
After examining the several places of note, we sat down to an excellent supper of duck, salmon, trout, eider-duck's eggs, butter, American cheese, some very rich goat's milk, white flour bread, Yankee-brewed rye liquors, and good tea. A Danish custom of shaking hands on rising from table followed. We then went out for a walk, and to call on the lieutenant governor. This gentleman was very kind and urbane in his demeanor. He brought forth numerous specimens of Greenland rocks and of fossil fish—capelin (Mallotus villosus)—called by the Greenlanders "angmarset," by the Danes "sild," and by the English "capelin." This fish is about six inches long, of a bluish-brown colour on the back, and silver-white on the belly. The fossils were found about 100 miles up a fiord, the entrance to which is close by here. Though they are of great value, the lieutenant governor most generously presented the whole to me.
At his house I saw some very good snow-shoes, such as are used in Norway. They are about six feet long by five inches wide, and covered with sealskin. They are made of a flat, thin piece of board, bent up at its fore part. This is the kind of snow-shoe Parry bought at Hammerfest, in Norway, when on his North Pole voyage in 1827. He afterwards used them for runners, on which he placed his two boats to be drawn over the ice.
We spent the evening in the governor's house, where a pleasant party was assembled, among whom were the priest's wife, Mrs. Kjer, and another lady, Feoken Bülou, daughter of the governor of the district of Goodhaab. The priest himself was absent on a journey. During conversation I related how McClintock found the paper belonging to Sir John Franklin's Expedition, and deep interest was evinced by all in the subject. The governor read from McClintock's work that portion relating to his visit here, and which I have already transcribed. When the part was translated which referred to the priest's wife being "blue with the cold," it caused immense merriment, none enjoying the joke more than the lady herself. The whole scene, indeed, was such as I cannot readily forget. The Esquimaux servants, in their costume, were around, McClintock's book in the governor's hand, while the chart and fac-simile of the Franklin record lay open before him.
After tea the ladies commenced knitting some lace, and during the evening Madam Kjer presented me with a mustard-ladle and two salt-shovels, all of ivory walrus tusk, made by an Esquimaux with only a knife! They were of excellent workmanship, and I valued them greatly. I had previously offered the ladies two pin and needle cushions, which they had kindly accepted.
During a conversation with the governor this day he informed me that the whole of Greenland belongs to the King of Denmark as his royal prerogative, and is the only dependency that is controlled exclusively by him. Much fault is found with this by the people of Denmark—much written in the papers. Those who are for the king retaining this right contend that otherwise the poor Esquimaux would at once become debased, and lose all the great influences that are now at work for their benefit. Throwing open the ports of Greenland would be followed by vessels of every country visiting the natives, and purchasing their skins, oil, and bone for liquor! The Esquimaux of Greenland will dispose of their all to obtain spirituous drinks, and the governor said that not for anything would he sell them a glass of liquor.
After bidding the party a cordial good-night, we returned to the beach at half-past ten, and found one of our boats ready to take us off. It contained Sterry (red as a beet), Smith, Rogers, and five or six others of the crew, who had been at a dance given by the mother-in-law of the lieutenant governor. They had all enjoyed themselves amazingly.
The following day, Wednesday, July 11th, fogs prevailed. Hardly a musquito had been seen since Sunday; and to me it was a singular fact, that a warm sunny day will bring myriads around you within the arctic circle, when, if it be at all foggy, none are to be seen. The bites of these annoying little insects remained for days, and my whole body was covered with the merciless wounds inflicted by them.
In the afternoon an "oomiak," or woman's boat, came alongside, rowed by Esquimaux girls. There were in the boat two mothers, with their babies, and ten young women. They had been out gathering fuel,[2] and called upon us on their way back.
The accompanying illustration of an Esquimaux woman and child is a fac-simile of a wood-cut drawn and engraved .jpg)
GREENLAND WOMAN AND CHILD.
[Fac-simile of a wood-cut executed by an Esquimaux.]
About 2 p.m. of this day our consort, the Rescue, hove in sight, and, as the wind was almost gone, boats were sent to help her in. I went in one of the boats, pulling an oar, and, after rowing a distance of some miles, got on board of the schooner. By that time it was calm, and the stillness of evening had approached. Another boat, containing Smith, and the noble, good-hearted Esquimaux pilot, called Lars Kleijt, had joined us, and there we were, in real whaling fashion, towing the new arrival into harbour. Four boats, of beautiful form and finish—two white, with blue gunwales, and two green—were in a line ahead of the Rescue, pulling her along, while the merry voices of our men resounded upon the still waters, and were echoed back from the bold mountains in answering glee. It was a pretty sight as witnessed from the schooner's deck, and one to be often remembered.
"Otto," a pure-blooded Esquimaux, stood at the wheel to steer us in, and all hands besides, except the cook, were in the boats.
At midnight we came to an anchor within a couple of stones' throw of Government House.
Both Otto and Lars Kleijt were reckoned such good men and ice pilots that every confidence was placed in them. I asked the latter, "What for"—meaning how much—"you go to West Land (King William's Land) with me?" His answer was, "My mother old man—she get no dinner—my little ones die!"
Captain Walker, of a Scotch whaler, last year tried to get "Lars" to go with him, and offered to make him second mate; but Lars said, "Me no go for all the world. My family!" A noble fellow this Lars. But, poor man! he was then much distressed, owing to the loss of his wife, who had died a few weeks previous to our visit. He himself appeared very sick, and my sincere wish was that so good a husband, son, and parent might be spared for his little ones and the mother he so greatly loved.
Otto loved his grog. He and Lars went out fishing. On return, coming aboard, he most earnestly asked for a glass of spirits, "to keep salt-water out of poor Esquimaux!"
In the evening of the following day, myself, the captain, mate, Lamb, and most of the crew, went on shore to a grand dance given by the Esquimaux girls to the white-men visitors. Sterry, our genial Sterry, was in his element. He had a most capital faculty for gaining the affections of the fair sex, and proved himself excellent on the variations. He had a continual crowd of the good-looking around him. We had an old sea-captain (an Esquimaux), Ironface, as a fiddler, perched up in the window, with pipe in his mouth, and merry, right merry did all of us become. Several dances, in excellent order, were performed, and many of our company went through their waltzing with Esquimaux partners in capital style. Everything was done in the most kindly and agreeable manner; and when the party broke up, it left upon the mind of each of us a feeling of the most friendly nature.
The first Sunday at Holsteinborg I determined to ascend the mountain on the north side of the harbour, and there worship in the great temple of the world's Creator. In the morning, accompanied by Sterry, we began the ascent, with a fine clear sky above, and the glorious sun shining warmly upon us. But, ere we had got far, swarms of musquitoes came around. Fortunately, I had long hair on my head, and my beard and mustache were also of great length. Sterry, however, had to cover his face with a handkerchief having two little holes for look-outs.
As we went on, streams of pure and sparkling cold water came dancing down the mountain side, and at these we several times quenched our thirst. Thus steep after steep we mounted, but at what cost! The sun's rays poured hot upon our backs, and both of us soon had to doff our coats, leaving the musquitoes to persecute us at will. All we could do was to push on quickly, to see if we could get into a higher region where these torments did not abound. But our bodies soon became weary; and the steepness of the way was such that one false step would have proved fatal to us; yet we were not without some relief. Patches of broad-leaved sorrel on the mountain-side refreshed us greatly as we rested, and beds of moss, covered with smiling flowers, served as our temporary couch.
In about two hours we gained the summit, both of us covered with musquitoes, and driven almost to madness by their stings. In vain we tried everything that mind could think of to get rid of them. Nothing availed. We were doomed by these merciless invaders, and our very life's blood was copiously drawn forth to supply their gluttonous desires.
On the other side of the mountain we saw a beautiful little lake; and upon standing by its side, it was found to be clear as crystal, mirroring forth the lofty peaks above us. On its north shore was a low shingly beach, that had been thrown up by the winds coming in this, the only direction they could cross the water. This lake was fed by various small streams that were leaping down from the snowy mountains, and, if it had got no other name, I termed it "William Sterry" Lake. We walked along it, and saw numerous salmon, small trout (three of which we caught with our hands), and many skulls and horns of deer.
It was now dinner time, and our appetite was well sharpened by the exercise we had enjoyed. Accordingly, a fire was lit whereby to cook the fish, though at first I was greatly puzzled how we were to get material for a fire; but Sterry, who had been so much in this arctic region, well knew its resources. Where all looked barren to me, he soon found moss and some low brushwood, like the running hemlock of the States. It is a tough shrub, with small leaves and white blossoms, which produce black berries with red sweet juice. Dwarf willow, heather, and small undergrowth wood of various descriptions are intermixed. The dead wood, the leaves, stalks, and limbs of preceding years, are thickly interspersed with the growing portions of this fuel, and it was with it that Sterry so quickly made a fire. A result followed, however, that we little expected. The abundance of such fuel around caused the fire to spread rapidly, and as a strong breeze was now blowing, it soon got beyond our control. Sterry, however, very calmly said, "Never mind; let it burn. Of what use is this to anybody, hemmed in here by these mountains?" So I very quietly made myself content, and sat down to the primitive meal—a carpet of heather for our table, and huge precipices yawning close by, with high broken mountains, that pierced the sky, grimly looking down upon us.
There is philosophy in everything, especially in eating. The world eats too much. Learn to live—to live as we ought. A little food well eaten is better for anyone than much badly eaten. Our pleasures have a higher relish when properly used. Thus we thoroughly enjoyed our food, and, after a short nap, started on the return journey.
As we passed along, I noticed several large rocks, thousands of tons in weight, that had evidently fallen from the tops of two lofty mountains, the detached portions corresponding in shape to the parts vacated. Everywhere was seen the effects of the freezing of the water that percolates into the crevices. The tremendous workings of Nature in these mountains of Greenland during the arctic winter often result in what many of the inhabitants think to be earthquakes, when, in fact, the freezing of water is alone the cause! In descending, we encountered several little clear babbling brooks, innumerable flowers, and shrub-fuel in abundance. Peat was also plentiful. Fox holes in numbers were seen, and a natural canal, with an embankment, in appearance much like the levee at New Orleans.
On arriving at the beach, which was a quarter of a mile long, we found it as smooth and inviting as that of Cape May. The limit of this beach was next to an abrupt bank with millions of broken shells upon it, and covered with driftwood ten feet above high-water mark. One piece was twelve feet long. Here, from a boat that took us off, we heard that the town of Holsteinborg was much alarmed about .png)
GREENLAND FESTIVAL ON THE KING'S BIRTHDAY.
It was on this Sunday afternoon that I heard of a curious custom here. The dance-house is regularly opened after 4 p.m. The people go to church in the morning and afternoon, then they consider Sunday to cease, and amusement begins. I went to the dance-house, where I found the governor, his lieutenant. Miss Bülou, and Mrs. Kjer. Miss Bülou and the lieutenant-governor danced, but the governor has not for years, and the priest and his wife never. Sometimes 150 persons are crowded into this dance-house.
I asked the governor when the Sabbath began. He replied, "On Saturday evening, and ends Sunday at 4 p.m." I farther inquired if the Esquimaux were at liberty to work after that hour on Sundays. He said, "No, certainly not." "Then how is it the government dance-house is opened for balls at that time?" said I. "Oh, that is not work!" responded the good Governor Elberg.
Referring to the amusements of these native Greenlanders, I am led to speak of a great festival that occurs here on the Danish king's birthday, and is general, on the same day, throughout all the settlements. His Danish majesty supplies the good cheer, and Europeans as well as Esquimaux join in the festivity. It is a most enlivening scene, as the accompanying sketch will show. The original of this picture, which I have in my possession, was drawn by a Greenlander, and Mrs. Kjer, who gave it to me, said it was an admirable representation of the great festal day.
On another occasion I visited the church one Sunday morning, when the school-teacher—a native Esquimaux—preached exceedingly well, and I must say that the general attention given would do credit to people anywhere. The preacher played an organ, and went through the whole services in a most praiseworthy manner. Indeed, I was much struck with the great advance made by the native inhabitants of Holsteinborg in Christian and general educational knowledge. Their school is well attended, and reading and writing are carried on admirably.
Very few persons here at home have any true conception of the great advance made in education by these Greenland Esquimaux. It has often astonished me when listening to the apt and ready way in which even children would pronounce some of their extraordinarily long words, some of those words consisting of no less than fifty letters!
The following is one of their long words, but not the longest:—
Piniagagssakardluarungnaerângat.
In all the trials made on one occasion in the cabin, by both male and female—by old and young—by all, I found none but could read, and read well.
I was surprised to see the rapidity—the full, clear enunciation of every syllable, with which they read; and one little Esquimaux boy seemed to exceed the rest, though all did well.
Perhaps I cannot give my readers a better idea of this than reprinting a small portion of a child's First Primer, beginning at the alphabet, and giving the sound of each letter. The explanation was carefully made to me by Miss Bülou.
The Greenland Esquimaux alphabet consists of twenty-four letters, as follows:—
A, B, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, Κʻ, L, M, N, O, P, R, S, T, U, V, Y, Æ, O.
The sound of each letter only varies from what we give to the same in the following:—
G is ke; H, ho; I, e; J, yoge; K, qu; Κʻ, qu; R, er; U, oo; Y, oe-i.
The following is the Lord's Prayer in Esquimaux:—
"Atâtarput kʻillangmêtottina! Akʻkit usfornarfille! Nâlægâvêt tikkiudle! Pekkosfæt kʻillangmifut nunnamisãak taimãikille! Tunnisfigut udlome pikfavtinnik! Pisfaräunatta akkêtforavta, pisfængillavuttäak akkêtfortivut! Usfernartomut pisfitfarãunatta, ajortomidle annãutigut! Nâlægãunerogavit pirfarfõunerudluttidlo usfornarnerudluttidlo isfokʻangittomut. Amen."
The minister Kjer has been at work translating "Robinson Crusoe" into Esquimaux, that copies might be printed and distributed among his people in Greenland. In his library there is an Esquimaux Bible, and everything is done to make the natives of Holsteinborg good and happy. Dr. Rink has also issued some useful story-books in Esquimaux, one of which books, and also a copy of the doctor's famous work, the governor kindly gave me.
Dr. Rink is so well known by repute among scientific men and others, that I need hardly say much about him. Unfortunately, he was absent at my visit, but I wrote to him about the object of my undertaking, and expressed my regret at not having had the pleasure of an interview.[3]
The following are a few interesting particulars I obtained from Governor Elberg concerning this eminent man:—
At the time I visited Holsteinborg he had been inspector of South Greenland eight years; two years also governor of Julianna-haab. He is a tall man, and a clever student. He was employed by government to survey Greenland, and received during the time 500 Danish dollars per annum, besides found in everything. The government supplied all the boats, men, and provisions.
Dr. Rink's wife was 17 years of age when he married her. She was the daughter of Governor Müller, who in 1850 was succeeded by Governor Elberg over the Holsteinborg District. Mrs. Rink was born at Frederick's Haab, and she likes Greenland so well for her home that she would be sorry to leave it.
- ↑ [See Appendix, No. 3.]
- ↑ A dwarf shrub—Andromeda tetragona.
- ↑ The following is a copy of the letter I sent to Dr. Rink, and, as it explains some matters that belong to my movements after this date, I here append it:
"Holsteinborg, Greenland, July 24th, 1860.
"On board the barque George Henry."Dr. H. Rink:"Dear Sir,—Though unacquainted personally, yet I claim to know you, n common with my countrymen, from your works, as a man devoted to the increase of knowledge among men, especially that knowledge pertaining to geography and science.
"On my arrival here, July 7th, it was with sorrow that I learned from Governor Elberg that you had departed. The pleasure and profit, intellectually, of meeting one so experienced in and devoted to the regions of the North would have been incalculable.
"I am on my way to King William's Land, viâ Frobisher Strait, Fox Channel, Fury and Hecla Strait, Gulf of Boothia, and Boothia. On the peninsula of Boothia and King William's Land I expect to spend the next three years, devoting myself mainly to the object of continuing and completing the history of the Franklin Expedition.
"I am satisfied that Frobisher Strait can be navigated, though no vessel has yet penetrated through its entire length. Fox Channel, on the east side, has never been navigated beyond latitude 66° 50′ N. Fox's Farthest, and Parry's discovery near the east entrance of Fury and Hecla Strait, should be connected by other discoveries. I am hoping to complete this chain of discoveries this year.
"Since my arrival here in Greenland—17 days ago—I have received most kindly and hospitable attention from Governor Elberg, the knowledge of which will be gratifying to my countrymen under whose auspices I am making this voyage.
"Governor Elberg has presented me with a copy of your work upon South Greenland. This is another valuable acquisition to the geographic and scientific world.
"Believe me, sir, Humani nihil alienum,
"Respectfully,
C. F. Hall."