Life with the Esquimaux/Volume 1/Chapter IX
CHAPTER IX.
At this time I frequently paid visits to the Esquimaux village, and one trip I find recorded in my journal as follows:—
"October 30.—After dinner a boat was sent from the ship to obtain some fresh water at the head of the bay, and I availed myself of the opportunity to go on shore. Smith had charge of the boat, and in less than an hour we arrived at a beautiful little harbour, two and a half miles distant northwesterly from the vessel. Here there was a complete Esquimaux village, and all the inhabitants, men, women, children, and dogs, rushed out to meet us. Our crew consisted of five white men, and each of them soon engaged a native to carry water to the boat, while he himself sought amusement among the tents. Smith and I walked on for about an eighth of a mile to the lakelet where the water was obtained, and put the Esquimaux fairly to work. We then returned, and called at one of the tents. Smith, being first, intended to pass in, but had no sooner lifted the folding door (pendent skins) and introduced his head, than he rapidly withdrew it again, exclaiming, Whew! By thunder, I'm not going in there! It's crowded, and smells horribly. How it looms up!' He then turned away, but I, having more inducements to bear the infliction, determined to pass in.
"Bowing down almost to a horizontal position, in went head, shoulders, body, and all. The next second I found myself butt up against a dozen Esquimaux, all lusty fellows, and crowded together in a heap, each armed with a knife! But there was no cause for alarm. The knives were not for any warlike or evil purpose. They were being used simply for cutting off strips of seal, to be shoved into the widely-extended mouths of the hungry people before me. Quite at the back of the tent I perceived my Esquimaux friend Koojesse seated between two pretty females, all three engaged in doing full justice to a dish of smoking-hot seal-blood! Seeing me, Koojesse at first seemed abashed; but, on my expressing a readiness to partake of any food they had to spare, one of the women immediately drew forth from the stew-pan about four inches of seal vertebræ, surrounded by good meat. I managed to eat the latter, and then determined to try the seal-blood. To my surprise, I found it excellent.
"On first receiving the dish containing this Esquimaux stew, I hesitated. It had gone the round several times, being replenished as occasion required; but its external appearance was not at all inviting. Probably it had never gone through the cleaning process, for it looked as though such were the case. But I screwed up courage to try it, and finally, when the dish came again to those by my side, I asked Koojesse, 'Pe-e-uke?' (Is it good?) 'Armelarng, armelarng' (Yes, yes), was the reply.
"All eyes were fixed upon me as I prepared to join with them in drinking some of their favourite soup.
"Now the custom of the Esquimaux in drinking seal-blood is to take one long s-o-o-o-p—one mouthful, and then pass the dish on to the rest till the round is made. I followed suit, and, to my astonishment, found the mixture not only good, but really excellent. I could not have believed it was so far superior to what my previous notions had led me to expect.
"Seeing I was pleased with it, she who presided at the feast instantly made ready a pretty little cup, which was clean outside and in, or clean as an Esquimaux can make it, and filled it with the hot seal-blood. This I sipped down with as much satisfaction as any food I had eaten in my life; and, in return for the friendly act of my Innuit hostess, I gave her a highly-coloured cotton handkerchief. She was in ecstasies with it, and the whole company joined with her in expressions of kindness and goodwill toward me. Clearly I had ingratiated myself with one party of the natives here, and this I was determined to do in like manner elsewhere.
"Soon afterward I left them, and crawling out of their tent on all-fours, passed through the village toward the beach. On the way I heard a voice calling out 'Mitter Hall—Mitter Hall;' and, on turning round, perceived poor 'Blind George.' I went to him, and found that he was in great trouble. He tried to tell me all his grief, but with difficulty could he give utterance to his words. 'Ugarng,' said he, 'Ugarng home to-day? My pickaninny away go. Mitter Hall, speak-um, my piccaninny—speak-um, my pickaninny here.'
"The fact was that, as already stated, Ugarng had got his child, and the poor blind man wanted her to be with him for a while. I therefore spoke to Ugarng, and often afterward little Kookooyer was seen by her father's side.
"While in the village I called at another tent, and was treated to a liberal piece of 'black skin' after it had been well cleansed of foreign substances by the free application of a lady's tongue!"
On November 10th I again visited the shore, accompanying the water-boat. We found the lakelet frozen over, and that our ice-axe by mistake had been left on board. This would have proved a great annoyance to us, had not one of the Esquimaux (Charley) brought his seal-spear to our aid, and speedily opened a good-sized "well-hole." In helping to carry the water, I fell into line with the natives, joining them in their mirthfulness of heart as they went along. As we passed the tuplcs, every woman and child gave a joyous smile and kindly word to the stranger. It was on this occasion, after I had been about two hours on shore, that I noticed something unusual had occurred. An excited crowd of natives were rapidly gathering round a young man who appeared to be frantically addressing them. Whatever his object, I soon perceived that he contrived to greatly affect his hearers. One moment he made them like infuriated demons; at another, they were melted to tears. Now they were clenching their fists, and gesticulating in a maddened way; presently they were calm, and full of joyful repose. It was astonishing the hold he had over the people round him. So complete was this power, that a simple motion with the tip of his finger would be followed by demonstrative movements on the part of the audience. An Esquimaux might be quietly enjoying a smoke, when a word from the orator would bring the pipe from the smoker's mouth to the speaker's pouch, or into the man's own pocket, just as directed.
I soon ascertained that the orator was an angeko, or wizard-man, and that his name was Ming-u-mai-lo. Though young, he was very much credited by the whole population of that and the neighbouring village. As I approached, his eye soon caught mine, and immediately leaving his snow rostrum, he bounded like a deer toward me. With a face of innocence, and full of smiles, he grasped my hand and welcomed me to his magic home; but, though returning the salutation in a friendly manner, I could not so cordially evince pleasure at his acquaintance as I generally did with others. It appeared to me that he was one of those who lived upon the credulity and ignorance of his race, and this thought probably made itself perceptible on my features; at all events, in a moment or so he left me, and, throwing his arm round Ugarng's neck, he walked with him into a tent, whither they were soon followed by Charley and the rest of our hired water-carriers. Koojesse was of the number; and, while I was looking on, much surprised, loud and exciting words were heard from within. Presently Koojesse came out; and, upon my making inquiries, he told me, in a cautious manner, that the angeko was at work, as we should call it, exorcising and otherwise performing various spiritual exercises!
Fearing to be considered intrusive, I walked away toward the boat, Koojesse again taking up his water-bucket and continuing his work; but hardly had I reached the landing-place when down came Mingumailo with a proud and excited step. He took me by the arm and beckoned me to go with him. I did so, being desirous of witnessing some of the farther acts of this curious and important personage.
We walked, arm in arm, toward what, though only a tent, I might well style his temple, for toward it several of his worshippers were bending their steps. As we passed along, Koojesse was seen in the distance with a bucket of water in each hand. In an instant, at one word, one motion of my companion, Koojesse, though otherwise a man of great intelligence and strong mind, left his water just where it was, and joined us. On approaching the tupic, Mingumailo ordered Koojesse to go in first, and then directed me to follow. I did so by falling upon my hands and knees, and, in this necessary posture, entered the abode of our Esquimaux prophet. The angeko followed, and immediately directed Koojesse to take a position on one side of the bed that was within, and me to be on the other side. Next to Koojesse was seated a pretty Esquimaux woman, one of the nulianas (wives) of the angeko, the other wife—for he had two—not then being at home.
Now commenced the solemn exercises of the peculiar worship of these people. Mingumailo sat facing us. He began by rapidly clapping his hands; so rapidly, indeed, that it was impossible to count the strokes. Then he accompanied this clapping by some metaphorical expressions beyond the power of ordinary intelligences to divine; and, indeed, no one but an angeko is considered capable of divining them. In fact, the word angeko signifies 'he is very great,' and this is given as a reason why none but angekos—the really great—should understand. Of course, I demeaned myself accordingly, and was as quiet and serious a listener as any one there. Occasionally the angeko would cease his voice and the motion of his hands. Then all became still as death. Presently, with renewed vigour he would recommence his services, patting his hands—which were moved around during the operation—now in a circle, now before my face, now before Koojesse's. Another minute he would pat the chest on which he sat, first on one end, then on the other, next on this side, then on that, afterwards on the top, and so repeating all the operations again and again. Every now and then, with his eyes staring into the farthest recesses of the tent, he would become fixed as marble, and looking quite hideous.
At such times Koojesse was brought into active use. He was directed, as much by the angeko's signs as by the sudden and sharp words uttered, to fix his eyes upon this point of the tent, then that, but more particularly to where it was said by the wizard, 'Kudlago's spirit shook the skin coverings.'
"Poor Koojesse! I could not help pitying him, though myself hardly able to control the laughter reigning within me. There he sat, large drops of perspiration streaming from his nose (Esquimaux sweat profusely only on the nose), and as earnest as though life and soul were the issue. All at once came unusual efforts. The climax was at hand. A grand finale was to take place, and this was done with a sprinkling of clear words in Esquimaux, just enough for Koojesse and myself to understand. The angeko spirit spoke: 'He was in want. The kodluna (white man) could relieve his wants. Would not the kodluna give the spirit one of the double-barrelled guns in his possession?'
This was enough. I saw through the scheme in a moment; but, though astounded at the impudence of the proposition, I betrayed nothing to show surprise. I merely turned to Koojesse, and quietly asked if that was really the angeko's meaning. The reply, in subdued tones, was 'yes;' whereupon I farther asked him if this man would be very useful in my future explorations to King William's Land; and on being answered in the affirmative, I said aloud, 'Well, if Angeko goes with me next season, he shall have a gun—one of my best.' This made the wizard-man leap for joy; for he thought, as I afterward found, that I meant to give it him at once. He grasped my hands, he threw his arms about my neck, he danced about the tent, and did many other extravagant things, which showed his gratification on making such a triumph of skill and strategy. He had, as he chose to believe (though I immediately explained, or tried to explain, that the gift was not intended for the moment), accomplished a great feat in charming a kodluna into giving him a gun as recognition of his magical power. So complete was his happiness, that he told me I should have the choice of his two wives, all his tuktoo skins (reindeer furs) that I might need, and sealskins for making boots, and other articles in abundance. That he had great riches of this description, probably obtained from his credulous worshippers, was evident from the rolls of beautiful skins I saw around me.
While the angeko was thus expressing himself, his second wife came in, and quietly took a position near the household lamp, which she began to renew with fresh seal-blubber. This gave Mingumailo the opportunity to again press the offer of one of his wives to me. He begged of me, there and then, to select either of them; but I soon gave him to understand I was already supplied with a wife at home.
This, however, neither satisfied his ideas about matrimony, nor, as it appeared, those of his wives; for both of them at once decked themselves out in all the smiles and blandishments that they possessed. I asked them if they really coincided in the offer their husband had made, and was immediately told that they gladly did. However, I was about again declining the offer, when the angeko suddenly made a sign to Koojesse, leaving me alone with the proffered wives. I uttered a few kind words to them, and, giving each a plug of tobacco with a friendly grasp of the hand, left the tupic and went toward the boat.
On my way, and just outside the angeko's tupic, I noticed an oar of a kia stuck upright in a drift of frozen snow. Upon it were suspended little packages done up in red woollen rags, differently and ingeniously arranged. On one side hung a portion of a well-dressed sealskin, beautifully variegated by parti-coloured patches sewed on to it, as if for signs. I inquired of several Esquimaux the meaning of this, but none would inform me till I met Koojesse, who said it was for a guide to any Innuit stranger travelling that way, and who was thus welcomed, as well as directed what to do.
As soon as Koojesse had left the tent, he immediately set to work in completing the operation of filling our water-cask. He had been told by Captain B to find, fill, and send off another cask, left on shore during some stormy weather a few days back, and this he now did by directing nearly the whole inhabitants of the village to aid in the task. Every conceivable article possessed by the natives that would hold water, from a pint up to a gallon, was brought into requisition. Most of the articles were made of tin, supplied by the various whaling ships visiting Northumberland Inlet, but it would have puzzled a white man to detect any difference between their colour and a negro's. Some of the vessels, however, were made of ookgook skins, and were excellent affairs, water-tight, light, but strong, and in no danger of being broken or indented.
As soon as the one cask in our boat was full, we were ready for starting, when it was ascertained that Ugarng and Kunniu were absent. Seeking for them caused some slight delay, and, meanwhile, Angeko began his tricks again. By signs he first ordered one and then another of the Esquimaux to do this and do that, and, with a single exception, all obeyed. The exception was Kooperneung (Charley), who, standing in the boat's stern, was smoking a pipe. He was told by the angeko to put away his pipe; but Charley, with the same smiling face that he generally possessed, laughed loud and heartily as he laid hold of his pipe, gave it a swing, and replaced it, smoking away as before. Evidently Charley was an Independent, though I imagined, from what I had seen of him before going to the wizard's tent, that his bravado now was more because he was under present civilized rule than from any real strength of mind in the matter.
The other natives pulling the boat were servilely obedient. At a signal from the angeko, who swung his arms on high, my Innuit crew tossed up their oars, and turned their attention to the shore. There we saw him surrounded by the villagers, and making signs for us to return.
Now Ugarng had on his neck a coloured kerchief, given him by some civilized hand. This was stated by the angeko to be a great encumbrance, and would be better off than on—in fact, would be better in his, the wizard's, possession, than the present holder's. Accordingly, with great reluctance, Ugarng unwound it from his neck and cast it on shore to his master. Mingumailo swung it proudly in the air, wound it around his waist, and expanded it between his outstretched hands, all the time making his way toward the village like a conqueror, followed by his people!
After this we were allowed to depart, and in due time I got on board.
"November 19th, 1860.—Last night the ice from the head of the bay set down upon the ship, completely closing us in. We are now cut off, for the present, from all the world. We cannot approach the land, nor can any one from the shore approach us. This will continue until the ice becomes solid enough to make a pathway upon it."
Such is the record in my journal under that date, and I here transcribe it to note the day when we were first "beset."
The temperature at this time was + 5°, and the weather moderate and clear. In the day it was cloudy, but we had the sun shining upon us for a few moments, to show me how prettily its soft light could play with the crystal white of the ship's rigging. Again and again did I look upon the scene. It was truly beautiful! Hoar-frost crystals—piles upon piles of crystals standing out boldy to windward, six inches from the masts and rigging!
Two days afterward the ice had hardened sufficiently to form a good protection to the ship during a heavy gale that came on, and which probably would have driven us from our anchorage had we not been thus guarded. The next day, however, we had open water all around us, the ice having been broken and driven out to sea by a change of wind when the gale abated. But toward evening it again came in, though not strong enough to inclose us. Thus it continued setting in from seaward until, on the 23d, we were again fast bound and firmly fixed by a solid pack for the winter. To me the change seemed almost magical. At noon of Wednesday, 21st, we had been bedded in ice that seemed fast for the winter. At 6 p. m. of that day, in some places the ice began to give way. During the ensuing night all of it had left the harbour and bay.
Morning of the next day saw us clear. At 3 p. m. the wind being southerly, some pieces of ice were seen floating toward us from sea, but still we were free. This morning of the 23d, however, the harbour and bay, save a narrow channel of water, formed one complete mass of ice. Up to the extent of the bay, running N.N.W. full fifteen miles from its entrance, all was quite a solid pack, much of it five to seven feet thick, though in some parts only from one to three feet.
The temperature of the sea water at this time was 26°, and the air 18°; the barometer 29.55, and wind fresh from the west.
On this day, finding it impossible any longer to use the boats, they were dismantled for the season. Nearly nine months must elapse before they can be used again.
Sunday, the 25th of November, we had a heavy gale from the eastward, bringing with it a remarkably warm air (the thermometer 32°), and breaking up some of the ice in such a manner that one time we expected to be driven out to sea with it. We were, however, preserved by the pack in one portion remaining firm, and thus giving us a shelter, though not more than a hundred yards from where the disruption was taking place. On the 1st of December there was a great calm, lasting till the 4th; but finally, on the 6th of December, we were no longer under any doubt as to being well secured in the solid ice for the winter. In all directions, the harbour and bay were completely frozen over.
On November 24th I had my first sight of, and encounter with, a polar bear. I was engaged writing in my cabin, when a shout was heard on deck, "A bear! a bear!" and immediately relinquishing my pen for the rifle, I went up and joined a party who started in chase.
Sterry and the Esquimaux Ugarng had already gone off to the hunt, and I rapidly followed, accompanied by "Charley," while all the natives that had been on board, and several of the ship's crew, came after us. The bear took a direction near the island where my dogs had been placed, and the howling they made was truly terrible.
As Charley and I neared one of the outer islands, about half a mile from the ship, bang went the first gun. Then a second report, and soon afterward I could see the bear retreating across a channel to another island. He had received some severe wounds, for blood was pouring out on either side of him, crimsoning his white coat and the ice beneath. The channel was covered over with ice that appeared too frail for us to make passage upon. Down through this ice every now and then the bear would plunge. But soon returning to the same hole, he slid himself out of it upon the ice in a very sprawling, but to me interesting manner. Once out, he immediately rose upon his haunches, knocked his tormentors (the Esquimaux dogs) to the right and left with his fore paws, and then ran on. But the dogs were again upon his track, surrounding and cutting off his retreat to the shore. Thus we were soon up with him, though keeping at a respectful distance from the wounded prey. Charley desiring to try his hand at my rifle, and knowing he was a good marksman, I allowed him to do so. He fired as the bear was again on his haunches engaged with the dogs. The shot took effect in his breast, and the brave beast fell kicking and tumbling; but, after a moment's struggle, was once more on his feet again, flying away. Morgan, of our ship, now tried his double-barrel, with three bullets in each, but both barrels missed fire. Another shot was then fired, and this time the bear tumbled over, as we all thought, dead. A cheer from us followed; but hardly had our voices died away, when the poor beast was again on his feet struggling to get off, white men, Esquimaux, and dogs all after him. Once more a heavy charge—this time from Morgan's gun—went into him, striking his face and eyes, and down went Bruin "dead again." One cheer was given, then another commenced, when, lo! as if the noise had revived him, the brute, seemingly with as many lives as a cat is said to have, went off again, running feebly, but still with some remaining vigour. Spears were now thrown at him by the natives, but these rebounded from his tough hide, proving as harmless to him as tooth-picks.
Once more he was down. Then raising his head, and looking round upon his foes, which numbered a full score without including the dogs, he seemed as if preparing for the
BEAR HUNT—"TAPPING THE JUGULAR."
last fight and death-spring. It was a dangerous moment, and so all felt. But now was the time for me to try my hand Hitherto I had not fired. This, then, was the moment to do so. I stepped out, and placed the hair-trigger as it should be, and levelled my gun.
"Shoot at his head! give it him in the skull!" was the cry of those around; but I watched my opportunity, and, when he gave a certain downward throw of his head, fired, tapping the jugular vein. It was enough. One convulsive movement, as the blood oozed out from the keen cut made by my rifle ball, and the life of the polar bear was ended.
The next task was to get the carcass on board, and at first we intended to drag it there. A line of sufficient length was upon the ground, ready for placing round the bear's neck; but this was finally abandoned, as his weight (near that of an ox) would break through the treacherous ice around the island where we were. It was then decided that the Esquimaux should skin the animal on the spot, quarter it, and thus carry it piecemeal to the ship. Accordingly, we left them to the task, and had not long been back to our cabins when the prize arrived, the carcass still smoking hot, though the skin was already frozen stiff.
I should mention that, as soon as the bear was discovered, Ebierbing hastened after it with his dogs, which were regularly trained to keep bears in check until rifles and spears should arrive. The dogs which I had brought from Greenland never had been "educated" for bear fights, therefore they seemed to act upon the principle that "distance lends enchantment to the view" by getting upon the most distant and highest part of the island on which the bear was killed.
As regards the use made of our prize, I have only to say that we divided it with the Esquimaux, and had a capital dinner off a portion of our share. I liked it better than the best of beefsteaks.
A day or two after this bear-hunt I paid another visit to North Star village, accompanied by Ebierbing, who took me direct to his tupic. After passing on all-fours through the low snow-passage which he had made, leading to the interior, I found myself facing Tookoolito, seated near a lamp, and herself covered with skins, she having been taken sick on the last occasion of visiting our ship, Mittens, boots, stockings, and articles of clothing, all in a wet state, were on the "dry net" that always hangs over the lamp, but on this occasion the lamp was not performing its usual heat-giving functions. Owing to the backwardness of the cold season in freezing up the bay, the condition of the natives from want of blubber and food was in an alarming state. Many of them could have no friendly lamp to give light and heat.
The Esquimaux lamp is the "all in all" to these people. By it their igloo is lighted and kept warm; by it they melt ice or snow for their drink; and by it they dry their clothing, mittens, boots, stockings, &c. Without the lamp, Esquimaux could not live—not so much because of its warmth or use for cooking, but because it enables them to dry their skin clothing, melt ice for drink, and gives them light during the long arctic night of winter.
KOOD-LIN AND IK-KU-MER,
the Stone Lamp and Fire of the Esquimaux.
When I called upon Tookoolito the lamp was without oil, and could not give either sufficient light, heat, or drying power, hence the melancholy aspect of her otherwise happy abode. Ebierbing, however, intended very soon to make a sealing excursion, and obtain blubber at any risk.
When obliged, Esquimaux do not hesitate in undergoing the greatest privations to get food for their families. They will watch over a sea-hole for one hour or fifty, if need be, in the coldest weather, waiting for the seal to come up and breathe. Kudlago in this manner caught the first seeds of the complaint which carried him off. His family were starving; and after bearing the pain of seeing them suffer for a few days, he could endure it no longer. He went out in some of the worst and coldest weather known here, and exposed himself for nearly two days and nights continuously, patiently watching for a seal, which he eventually captured. Ebierbing now intended to do the same thing rather than allow his home to be wretched much longer.
I need hardly say that everything in my power was done for Tookoolito, as also for poor Nukertou, who was very sick.
From Tookoolito's I walked a little way on, and found two Esquimaux, "Charley" and "Miner," making an igloo, or snow-house. In a short time more it was finished, and I was quite surprised at its beauty. With the exception of a single stain upon its spotless snow at the apex or centre of the dome, it was one of the most chaste pieces of architecture I ever saw. The exceptional stain was, I am sorry to say, something emanating from civilization. It was the juice of tobacco! I seized the long snow-knife from the hands of one of the Esquimaux, and scraped away that which so marred the beauty of the whole, while the inmates looked on, and then applauded me when it was done.
EK-KE-LU-YUN,
The white-stone salmon-bait used by Esquimaux.