Life with the Esquimaux/Volume 1/Introduction

by Charles Francis Hall

LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX.

INTRODUCTION.

As this book is to be a work of narrative and adventure, and not one of argument and discussion, I shall touch but very lightly upon those subjects which might lead to the latter, while I endeavour to give as much variety and as much fulness of detail as possible to the former.

That argument and discussion may arise from portions of what I advance is very probable; but, if so, it will be better to enter upon such in another form than this. Readers very naturally expect to be entertained, as well as, perchance, instructed in what a voyager or traveller puts before them. Long, prosy dissertations are seldom wanted. All that most people require is a truthful report of personal doings in strange lands, and a faithful record of incidents, discoveries, and interesting events connected with them.

Such, then, is the task I have taken in hand, with the hope that a ready excuse will be granted for all those imperfections necessarily consequent upon the mode and manner of my carrying on the work in which I was engaged. I pledge myself as to the literal accuracy of what I state, and my readers will be able to see, as they move onward with me through my narrative, how difficult it was—alone, and with no other pair of hands, no other mind, no other thought, sense, or perception but my own—to record, day by day, the occurrences that came under my eye.

In addition to this, I had to make all the observations—scientific, geographical, and otherwise—by myself, and this, too, with a knowledge self-acquired, and with instruments so few, and most of them so imperfect, till rectified by myself, that my labours were increased many fold. Thus, in the following pages, let truth, variety of incident, and a faithful report of discovery and adventure be alone expected. Elegance of style and diction must not be sought for.

As it will be well to avoid, as much as possible, breaking in upon the thread of my narrative elsewhere, I here give some particulars as to the cause of my embarking on a voyage to the Arctic Seas.

It is well known that, for many years past, the whole civilized world has had its interest much attracted toward the polar regions in consequence of the lamentable fate of the Franklin Expedition. The labours of Great Britain to discover what had become of her lost children, and the sums of money devoted to that purpose (no less than 2,000,000£ sterling), stand unparalleled in past history. Nor was America behindhand in the generous and humane work. That the missing navigators belonged not to our own beloved land made no difference. The one general feeling was the same with reference to a desire for participating in the search after those who, having perilled themselves in devotion to science and the good of mankind, had become as brothers to us all. Hence the banner of Columbia—the glorious stars and stripes—floated to the breeze of an Arctic clime, side by side with England's proud flag, in the noble errand of humanity, for which a goodly fleet of some twenty vessels had been sent forth! Of the many bright names already chronicled for their generous deeds in connexion with those arctic explorations, need I say that none stand more conspicuous than that of Henry Grinnell? What he and others have done is so familiar to all men who know anything of this matter, that I need not recapitulate what has been so often told; but I cannot let pass the mention of that one name here without expressing the warm emotions of my own heart. Henry Grinnell has been to me, as he has shown himself to all who were at work in the Franklin search, a true and noble friend. To him I feel more than ordinarily indebted. He not only helped me in my undertaking, but he has cheered me on, and spoken words of comfort and bright hope when my soul was often nearly overwhelmed. The memory of his generous kindness frequently sustained and helped to invigorate me anew, when wearied and exhausted in the wild regions I have lately been exploring. May every blessing, therefore, attend him and his, is my earnest and grateful prayer.

As to the search for Franklin and his brave comrades, who has not heard of its fruitless result? Money and means expended without success! Large ships and small ships, in magnificent expeditions, sent out vainly as to the recovery of those lost! True, some discoveries were made, and certain relics and information brought to England by Dr. Rae in 1854, which gave a clue as to where the missing navigators could have been found; but not until Captain McClintock, of the British Navy, in the spring of 1859, visited Boothia and King William's Land, was anything for certain known. Then, at last, we were positively assured of the locality where these martyrs to science had been, when, as a discovered document proved, the ships were abandoned, and the majority of the crews had taken to the shore. This occurred in April, 1848, and 105 men, as we are told, under command of Captains Crozier and Fitzjames, landed at a given spot, with a view of making their escape, if possible, toward their native home. What became of them, except two skeletons found in a boat, and one other near the beach, has not yet been known. Supposition alone has induced the world to believe them all dead; and, despite proof upon proof, from facts, experience, and sound logical reasoning to the contrary, the Government of England, and British naval officials, with some eminent exceptions, have discarded all idea of farther search, though the truth could now so easily be obtained, and the ground to explore so small and comparatively so easy of access!

I will not trouble the reader now with my reasons for making these statements, based, as they are, upon some years of careful study and examination of all that has been said and written upon the subject. Let me here briefly mention why I myself, with no previous experience, and no past history of my own to help me, took it up as I have done.

In one word, then, it seemed to me as if I had been called, if I may so speak, to try and do the work. My heart felt sore at the thought of so great a mystery in connexion with any of our fellow-creatures,—especially akin to ourselves,—yet remaining unsolved. Why could not their true fate be ascertained? Why should not attempts be made, again and again, until the whole facts were properly known? Captain (now Sir F. L.) M'Clintock, in 1857–9, had gone forth once more to seek for some elucidation of this mystery, but still I felt that something more might yet be attempted toward cooperating with that brave officer. It was already known that his vessel, the Fox, had been caught in the ice and delayed a whole year. It was possible that she might still not be able to get through to her destination, and therefore I fancied the work could be more effectually done by an independent expedition proceeding in some other direction, afterward to join with M'Clintock, if need be, in his task. Accordingly, I conceived an idea that perhaps the British Government would lend, for a new American expedition, the arctic ship Resolute, which, having been abandoned in the ice, had drifted out, and was picked up in 1855 by Captain James Budington, of New London, who brought her to the States, where she was completely refitted at our national expense, and returned as a generous gift, in amity and good will, to England.^[1] I had heard that she was afterward dismantled, and laid up as a hulk in the River Medway, and I thought it possible she might now be loaned to us for another attempt to be made under the American flag. A printed petition to the British authorities was gotten up and signed by S. P. Chase (then Governor of Ohio), U. S. Senator George Pugh, and Mayor Bishop, of Cincinnati; but, before other names were attached to send it to England, M'Clintock returned with news of what he had discovered. What this was the civilized world is well acquainted with. He had obtained a few facts, but still left the matter very mysterious! That it could have been otherwise was almost impossible by such a hurried and cursory examination of the ground as he made in spring, when the land is clothed in its winter's dress. Nor could he obtain much knowledge of the truth by a few casual interviews with detached parties of Esquimaux, through an interpreter who he himself says, "did not well understand them." No; neither McClintock nor any other civilized person has yet been able to ascertain the facts. But, though no civilized persons knew the truth, it was clear to me that the Esquimaux were aware of it, only it required peculiar tact and much time to induce them to make it known. Moreover, I felt convinced that survivors might yet be found; and again I said to myself, Since England has abandoned the field (I did not then know there were any fresh efforts in that country to renew the search), let me, an humble citizen of the United States, try to give to the Stars and Stripes the glory of still continuing it, and perchance succeed in accomplishing the work. Accordingly, after mature consideration, I determined to make the effort. But how? what were my means? what the facilities for reaching the coveted goal of my ambition? Cincinnati, where I then resided, was in a highly civilized part of the world, where ready transit from one place to another could be obtained; King William's Land, where I wanted to go, was in the uncivilized and distant regions of the frozen North! What was I to do? give it up? Perhaps many would say, as some did say, "Yes, what have you to do with it? why does it concern you? Away with the idea!" But not so; my convictions were strong, and I could not resist the desire upon me. I determined, therefore, to try; and, first of all, get what means were in my power, then find a way. Many before me had accomplished much in the world upon as slight a foundation as that of mine. What, then, was to hinder my making the attempt? Courage and resolution were all that I needed; and though some persons might not concur in the wisdom or prudence of my effort, still, as my mind was upon it, try it I would, and try it I did.

I need not enter upon all the many difficulties I encountered. These fall to the lot of every man who essays to try his hand at something new, and especially so if he starts on a path trodden without success before him. But difficulties sharpen the wit and strengthen the mind. The experience of my native land was before me in proof of what man could accomplish; and I can now safely say that, though the obstacles in my way were many and great, I finally succeeded in overcoming them. How I surmounted those difficulties and started upon my voyage cannot be told at any length here. Suffice it that I began in Cincinnati by mentioning my hopes and wishes, and laying my plans before several of the leading men and other persons well known in that city. I also wrote a letter to Mr. George Peabody, of London, stating that, in the event of my not succeeding in any other way to reach the arctic regions, I would attempt it overland by the great Fish River. This, however, was only an idea formed in case I could not get a ship of my own, or a conveyance in one by the sea route.

On the 8th of February, 1860, I issued a circular (vide Appendix), to which were attached upward of thirty signatures, and among them were the names of W. Dennison, Governor of Ohio; of the mayor, K. M. Bishop; of Miles Greenwood; Senator Chase; several other persons of note; and Thomas Hickey, who was with Kane on the second Grinnell expedition. Mr. Hickey sent me a letter which, from its value as the opinion of one competent to judge, deserves notice. I here give an extract from it bearing upon my own ideas. He says:—

"During the residence of our party in the arctic regions, we experienced many severe trials; but, I must say, the major part of them emanated from our mode of living. When we lived as Esquimaux, we immediately recovered and enjoyed our usual health. If Providence had so ordered it that we should not find our way back to civilization, but should cast our lot with Esquimaux, I have no doubt we would have lived perhaps quite as long, and in quite as good health, as in the United States or England. Had we lost our commander, I confidently believe not one of our expedition would have returned. Our countrymen might have come to us, but we could not have gone to them. White men can live where Esquimaux can, and frequently where and when they cannot. This I know by experience. . . . .

"Little did I think, on returning to the United States with my companions and beloved commander, that I would ever again go to the north; but believing, on my soul, from a practical life in the arctic regions, that you are right in entertaining the opinion that some of Sir John Franklin's men are yet to be found living with the Esquimaux, and that they should be rescued and restored to their country and friends, I hereby cheerfully offer my services, and volunteer as a member of the expedition you propose to organize.

"For direct evidence of me, and my devotedness to this cause, I would refer you to the written works of him whose memory and name I almost worship—Dr. Kane."

This confirmation of my views was exceedingly gratifying, but I had one sent to me which still more stamped upon my mind the truth of what I had surmised in respect to the Franklin Expedition. It was from Henry Grinnell, Esq., of New York, and will be introduced farther on.

After laying my plans before friends at Cincinnati, I at once started for the Eastern States, with a view of consulting men of experience in the arctic whale fishery, and also calling upon other persons to whom I had letters of introduction. I stopped one day at Philadelphia, and visited Dr. Hayes, Mr. Robert Kane, Mr. George Childs, and a few more; then proceeded on to New York, where I was hospitably welcomed by Mr. Grinnell, who entered warmly into my views.

On the 14th of February I went to New London, where I had an opportunity of meeting many experienced whaling captains, among whom was Captain S. A. Brown, who was very warm and kind in reference to my plans. Captain Christopher Chappel, who had passed a winter in Northumberland Inlet, likewise gave me great hope and encouragement. So did Mr. Thomas W. Perkins, who allowed me access to the logs of various voyages made in the arctic regions by vessels belonging to the late firm of Perkins and Smith. But to Messrs. Williams and Haven, upon whom I called when at New London, I am especially indebted. In every possible way they tried to help me as to my plans; and they most liberally tendered me the well-known schooner Rescue (formerly of the first Grinnel Expedition) for $2,000.

I am also under great obligation to Mr. R. H. Chapell, of the same place, who then displayed—and has so ever since—an earnestness in every thing connected with arctic research that commands my respect and esteem.

Other persons that I called upon in New London were Captains Sisson, Tyson, Quayle, and S. O. Budington, with whom I afterward embarked on my voyage. Captain Budington had brought to this country an intelligent Esquimaux, named Kudlago, whom I afterward fortunately secured to accompany me as an interpreter.

At Groton I called upon an individual named W. R. Sterry. He had been four voyages to the arctic regions, and spent three winters in Northumberland Inlet. I asked him, how long, at any one time, he had remained with the Esquimaux? His reply was, two months in the spring of 1855, thirty miles from the vessel, and with three families, consisting of about twenty individuals, living in three or four huts.

Sterry was able to give me a great deal of useful information, which all tended the more to confirm my views upon the subject of arctic exploration.

From New London I returned to New York, where the great kindness of Mr. Grinnell, and the friendly attention of several other well-known names, much encouraged me. Promises of assistance were made, and donations tendered toward my expedition. Here, by invitation, on March 8th, 1860, I attended an informal meeting of the American Geographical and Statistical Society, to explain my views and intentions. At the meeting I gave a brief statement of my ideas on the subject of Franklin's Expedition, and argued upon the great probability of some survivors yet being found. Soon after this, Messrs. Henry Grinnell, Miles Greenwood, and E. M. Bishop kindly became treasurers of the fund raising for my voyage, and it was now determined to adopt the following plan, which, I may here state, was the one I acted upon, so far as I could, throughout my whole undertaking. I give that plan as promulgated by me at the time. I said, "My object is to acquire personal knowledge of the language and life of the Esquimaux, with a view thereafter to visit the Lands of King William, Boothia, and Victoria; then endeavour, by personal investigation, to determine more satisfactorily the fate of the 105 companions of Sir John Franklin now known to have been living on the 25th day of April, 1848.

"I take with me an Esquimaux interpreter, and during my sojourn in the arctic regions shall employ a crew of natives for the boat accompanying me. With these natives I purpose starting from Northumberland Inlet, and proceeding up an arm of it that runs westward toward a lake not far from its extremity. This lake will be reached by crossing a small portage. I then shall traverse the lake to its western outlet, which, by Esquimaux report, is a navigable river emptying into Fox Channel. On arriving at 'Fox's farthest' (lat. 66° 50′ N., long. 77° 50′ W.), I shall, if practicable, turn to the northward, proceeding on the east side of said channel to the Straits of 'Fury and Hecla,' thus uniting the discoveries of Fox in 1631 and Parry in 1821—3.

"On completing this work I shall cross the strait to Igloolik (lat. 59° 20′ N., long. 81° 53′ W.), and try to establish friendly relations with the community of Esquimaux known to congregate at that point. I will there and then decide, by the circumstances, whether to winter at Igloolik, return to Northumberland Inlet, or proceed southward on the east coast of Melville Peninsula to Winter Island, or to push my way directly westward across the Gulf to Boothia to Victoria Harbour.

"During the winter and early spring, sledge-journeys will be undertaken with a view of acquiring a thorough knowledge of the country.

"When at Northumberland Inlet and other places, I shall carefully examine into the facilities for travelling, so as to decide upon the most practicable course to pursue in my efforts to satisfactorily and truthfully determine the history of the Franklin Expedition.

"To extend this undertaking to a favourable conclusion will require the assistance of my fellow-countrymen.

"This voyage is one I am about to make for the cause of humanity and science—for geographical discovery, and with the sole view of accomplishing good to mankind."

Such was the statement I made of my views and intentions. Happily, I had strong confirmation of my opinions concerning the Franklin Expedition from Mr. Henry Grinnell, who gave me the following letter:—

"New York, March 14, 1860.

"Mr. C. F. Hall,—

"Dear Sir,—Probably no one in this country is more desirous of arriving at the truth relative to the fate of Sir John Franklin and his party than myself. The fate of Franklin and some of his officers and men is known by the record found on King William's Land by Captain (now Sir F. L.) McClintock; but the fate of 105 members of Franklin's Expedition, living on the 25th day of April, 1848, and many other matters important to the history of that expedition, has yet to be determined.

"I believe some of the 105 may yet be found habitants among the Esquimaux of Boothia, of Victoria, or Prince Albert Lands. I farther believe that the graves of Franklin and some of his officers and men, known to be dead, as well as the records of the expedition and many important relics, will be found on King William's Land, if search be made there in the months of July, August and September.

"The course you propose to pursue is entirely a new and important one, and I see not why, with the exercise of your best judgment, you may not ultimately accomplish all that could be desired in satisfactorily determining many of the unsettled questions indicated above, as well as increasing our geographical knowledge of that portion of the arctic regions over which you propose to pass.

"You have my earnest wishes for the accomplishment of the noble object you have in view, and I will cheerfully contribute toward the requisite funds to carry it out.

"With great regard, I am your friend, {{{1}}}

"Henry Grinnell."

Shortly afterwards, Messrs. Williams and Haven, of New London, sent me the following most kind and generous proposal:

"As a testimony of our personal regard, and the interest we feel in the proposed expedition, we will convey it and its required outfits, boats, sledges, provisions, etc. free of charge, in the barque George Henry, to Northumberland Inlet, and whenever desired, we will give the same free passage home in any of our ships."

This generous offer relieved my mind of a great difficulty, and most gratefully I accepted their kind proposition. Having thus far succeeded in opening the way, I now gave directions for a suitable boat to be built.

Mr. G. W. Rogers, of New London, who had built the boats for the expeditions under De Haven, Cane, and Hartstene, was commissioned to build mine. Its dimensions were as follows: length, 28 feet; beam, 7 feet; depth, 29 1/2 inches; and thickness of her planking, which was of cedar, seven-eighths of an inch. In form she was similar to a whale-boat, drawing only eight inches of water when loaded with stores and a crew of six persons. She had one mast, on which a jib and mainsail could be carried; a heavy awning to shelter the crew at night or when at rest; and the lockers for stores at each end were sufficiently large that a man could, if need be, comfortably sleep in either of them. Five oars, and all other essentials, formed a portion of her equipment. The sledge I took was made under my own eye in Cincinnati, as also a stock of pemmican.

I now returned to the West for the purpose of settling my affairs and preparing for departure.

The press gave a friendly notice of my intentions; and a circular was issued by Mayor Bishop and Miles Greenwood, inviting my fellow-citizens to meet me at the Burnet House. This meeting took place on the 26th of April, and I was much gratified with its auspicious character.

Soon after this (on May 10th), I bade adieu to my home and friends—to all of human ties that I held dearest to my heart, and departed for New York. Here I devoted the remaining time to various matters connected with my departure, constantly receiving advice and assistance from Mr. Grinnell. Finally, on Saturday evening, May 26th, I left for New London to join the George Henry. The funds for my expedition were, however, so low, that I found myself sadly deficient in many things that were almost absolutely necessary. But, at the last moment, when this was known to Mr. Grinnell, he unhesitatingly supplied the deficiency.

On arriving at New London, I received many kind invitations from numerous friends I encountered there. Among others, I cannot forbear alluding to a dinner given the day before my final departure by Mr. Haven (of the house of Williams and Haven), who, with his amiable family, extended every hospitality toward me. On the occasion to which I refer, the viands were plentiful and good; but Mrs. Haven uttered some graceful remark, wishing there had been longer time to have made a more abundant and richer display to welcome me; whereupon one of her youngest sons, a little lad, very intelligently said, "He guessed that where I was going to I might see the day when I should be glad to get as good!" Since then, how often and often have I called to mind that entertainment and young Master Haven's words, especially, when obliged to eat scraps of raw walrus' hide, whale-skin, the contents of walrus and reindeer paunches, etc. and sometimes not able to get even that much to try and satisfy my craving hunger! Frequently have I sat down and thought of my dinner at Mr. Haven's, vainly wishing that I could get if it were only the very poorest fragments of that Monday's feast.

On the 29th of May, accompanied by Mr. Grinnell and several citizens of New London, among whom was Mayor Harris, I stepped from the wharf, amid a crowd of friendly spectators, and entered the boat that was to convey me on board. A few strokes of the oars, however, had only been made, when we returned at the voice of Mr. Haven hailing us. It was to give me a present, in the shape of a little book called "The Daily Food," which, though small in size, was great in its real value, and which proved my solace and good companion in many a solitary and weary hour. Once more bidding adieu to all on shore, the boat swiftly carried me to the ship, where preparation was being made for departure. In a few moments more the steam-tug was alongside, and we were towed out to sea. Then came the final moment of parting. The last farewell had to be uttered—the one word that was to sever me for many months, perhaps years, from my country, my home, my friends! Never shall I forget the emotions I experienced when the noble Grinnell came to take my hand and say, "Good-bye! God bless you!" Hardly could I respond to his kind and earnest expressions toward me and on my behalf. With warm but trembling utterance, this truly great and good man spoke of the brave old navigators, and those of our own times, who had often dared the perils of unknown seas, relying on their own stout hearts, it is true, but depending more on the aid and support of a Supreme Power. He bade me ever do the same; and, commending me to that Mighty Being, he once more, with moistened eye, said, "Farewell!" and hastily embarked on the tug that was to convey the visitors on shore.

The last link binding me to my own dear native land was now severed. The steamer cast off as we were passing Montauk Point, and then there arose one deafening shout from those on board, when three loud cheers were given for the name of Henry Grinnell; and, as the echoes floated on the air, our good ship, now under sail, bore me rapidly away. Thus I left my country to try and accomplish that object upon which I had set my heart—namely, the solving of the yet unsettled mystery connected with the lost Franklin Expedition.

I may as well say here that, throughout my narrative, all references to the Appendix will be noted by small numerals, indicating the explanatory notes.

 

1. [See Appendix, No. 1.]