Maps of Old London/Ogilby
OGILBY'S MAP OF LONDON
Description.—This is more exclusively a plan of the City than any we have yet considered. It runs roughly from the Tower to Lincoln's Inn Fields, and the reason why it is thus limited is that it was made as a survey to assist in the plotting out of land in the City after the Fire.
Designer.—John Ogilby was born about 1600, and did not turn his attention to surveying until he was about sixty-six, when he secured the appointment as "King's Cosmographer and Geographical Printer." He died in 1676, the year before his map was published. He was assisted in the work by William Morgan, his wife's grandson, and most of the actual engraving of the map was done by Hollar.
Original.—The original is 8 feet 5 inches by 4 feet 7 inches, and is in twenty sheets. It is on the scale of 100 feet to the inch. It may be seen in the British Museum (Crace Collection) and in the Guildhall. The two examples differ a little, and that in the Guildhall has an additional sheet. The reproduction here given is taken from that made by the London and Middlesex Archæological Society from the British Museum copy. The arms of the City are in the left-hand top corner, and those of Sir Thomas Davies, Lord Mayor 1676-77, in the right-hand corner.
Details.—Beginning at the left-hand top corner, we find pastures, bowling-greens, and market-gardens. Aylesbury House, next to St. John Street, has magnificent private gardens, and beyond the Charterhouse bowling-green there is a wood. Further east the Honourable Artillery Company, which had been revived by Cromwell, can be seen, with their equipment and tents. This company is directly descended from the Finsbury Archers, whom we noted in the last map, and it is interesting to know that the actual ground on which they are here depicted is still reserved for their use. Moorfields is neatly laid out and planned, and south of it is new Bethlehem Hospital, now transferred across the river. Eastward, again, there is a large open space at Devonshire House Garden, and southward innumerable gardens can be seen, some of which are preserved to this day behind City halls, etc., but so hidden that no one who did not know of their existence could possibly find them.
On tracing the line of the City wall on the north side we see how some of the churches, notably St. Giles's and St. Botolph's, have taken a part of the town ditch for the enlargement of their churchyards; near St. Bartholomew's the town ditch is still marked. This ditch caused the Mayor and Council as much worry as the increase of houses, because it was the receptacle for every kind of filth, and its cleansing annually swallowed up a large sum of money. The Fleet River is shown flowing down in the open, and is called the New Canal. It is crossed by a bridge at Holborn and another at Fleet Street. We can mark the sinuous line of the great thoroughfare of Holborn as it was before the viaduct and approaches were made. The Strand outside Temple Bar shows the obstructions which have only finally been removed in our own time. Butcher Row disappeared first in 1813; other streets followed to make way for the new Law Courts, and with the destruction of Holywell Row and the opening of Kingsway the improvements here may be considered complete.
To the south are the great houses of Essex and Arundel, with their gardens; their names are preserved in the streets that flow over their sites. Somerset House, the Protector's palace, was then standing, and did not make way for its present representative for another hundred years. The river is covered with wherries, clustered as thickly as ants. It is still the main highway for most people, though there were hackney coaches for hire. There was still only London Bridge by which to get across the river on foot, and the boats were used as ferries. There were tilt-boats, too, as well as the smaller wherries; these ran at stated intervals, like our own omnibuses, and were protected by an awning. Near the Fleet mouth is Bridewell, once a palace, and the scene of the meeting of Parliament, but given by Edward VI. to be a prison. On the east is a blank space, where is now the station of the London Chatham and Dover Railway Co., who purchased it in 1844. The site of St. Paul's was plotted out, but not yet built upon. In fact, the rebuilding of the houses was the first consideration, and was done with remarkable promptness, for in the meantime the poor houseless wretches were camping on Moorfields. The churches and city halls were therefore left to the last; yet even so we may see that, though only eleven years had elapsed since the destruction of the City, about twenty churches had been rebuilt out of the eighty-seven that were destroyed. The picturesque Old London of the gable-ends and overhanging stories was gone, never to return; but gone also was a great deal of rubbish and an insanitariness never afterwards quite so bad. As for the overcrowding, we must see what Sir Walter Besant says:
"If we look into Ogilby's map, we see plainly that as regards the streets and courts London after the Fire was very much the same as London before the Fire; there were the same narrow streets, the same crowded alleys, the same courts and yards. Take, for instance, the small area lying between Bread Street Hill on the west and Garlick Hill on the east, between Trinity Lane on the north and Thames Street on the south: is it possible to crowd more courts and alleys into this area? Can we believe that after the Fire London was relieved of its narrow courts with this map before us? Look at the closely-shut-in places marked on the maps—'1 g., m. 46, m. 47, m. 48, m. 40.' These are respectively Jack Alley, Newman's Rents, Sugar-Loaf Court, Three Cranes Court, and Cowden's Rents. Some of these courts survive to this day. They were formed, as the demand for land grew, by running narrow lanes between the backs of houses and swallowing up the gardens. There were 479 such courts in Ogilby's London of 1677, 472 alleys, and 172 yards, besides 128 inns, each of which, with its open courts for the standing of vehicles and its galleries, stood retired from the street on a spot which had once been the fair garden of a citizen's house" (London in the Time of the Stuarts, p. 280).
THE FOLLOWING EXPLANATIONS ARE EXTRACTED FROM OGILBY'S KEY TO THE MAP IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM
We Proceed to the Explanation of the Map, containing 25 Wards, 122 Parishes and Liberties, and therein 189 Streets, 153 Lanes, 522 Alleys, 458 Courts, and 210 Yards bearing Name.
The Broad Black Line is the City Wall. The Line of the Freedom is a Chain. The Division of the Wards, thus oooo. The Parishes, Liberties, and Precincts by a Prick-line, .... Each Ward and Parish is known by the Letters and Figures Distributed within their Bounds, which are placed in the Tables before their Names.... The Wards by Capitals without Figures. The Parishes, &c., by Numbers without Letters. The Great Letters with Numbers refer to Halls, Great Buildings, and Inns. The Small Letters to Courts, Yards, and Alleys, every Letter being repeated 99 times, and sprinkled in the Space of 5 Inches, running through the Map, from the Left Hand to the Right, &c. Churches and Eminent Buildings are double Hatch'd, Streets, Lanes, Alleys, Courts, and Yards, are left White. Gardens, &c. faintly Prick'd. Where the Space admits the Name of the Place is in Words at length, but where there is not room, a Letter and Figure refers you to the Table in which the Streets are Alphabetically dispos'd, and in every Street the Churches and Halls, Places of Note, and Inns, with the Courts, Yards, and Alleys, are named; then the Lanes in that Street, and the Churches, &c. as aforesaid, in each Lane.
The several Marks and Names of the Wards, Parishes, and Liberties
|
Wards | |||||
| A | Faringdon Without | I | Dowgate | R | Aldersgate |
| B | Faringdon Within | K | Broad-Street | S | Billingsgate |
| C | Bainard-Castle | L | Cornhil | T | Lime-Street |
| D | Bread-Street | M | Cheap | U | Langborn |
| E | Queen-Hith | N | Bassishaw | W | Portsoken |
| F | Cordwainers | O | Coleman-Street | X | Aldgate |
| G | Walbrook | P | Bishopsgate | Y | Candlewick |
| H | Vintry | Q | Cripplegate T Tower |
Z | Bridg |
Parishes and Liberties | |||||
| 1. St. James Clerkenwel 2. St. Giles Cripple-Gate |
42. St. Christophers 43. St. Mary Woolnoth |
83. St. Andrew Wardrobe 84. St. Bennet Paul's Wharf | |||
| LIST OF PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS IN OGILBY & MORGAN'S MAP, 1677 COMPILED FROM THE MAP AND KEY | |||||
| 2-5. Ailesbury's House, Earl of, A7
7-18. Aldgate 10-17. Alhallows Barking Church 9-10. Alhallows Bread-street Church 11-12. Alhallows Church, Great 11-12. Alhallows Church, Little 7-10. Alhallows Hony Lane Church [site absorbed into Hony Lane Market] 9-14. Alhallows Lombard Street Church 5-14. Alhallows on the Wall Church 9-17. Alhallows Staining Church, Mark Lane 9-6. Apothecary's Hall, C1 5-12. Armorers Hall, Coleman Street, A65 11-1. Arundel House 5-10. Barber Chyrurgeons Hall, A59 6-15. Barnadiston's House, Sir Samuel, B61 6-3. Barnard's Inn 6-3. Bell Inn, Holborn, A83 8-6. Bell Savage Inn, Ludgate Hill, B77 3-6. Berkley's House, Lord, A11 6-14. Bethlehem, New 6-15. Bishops Gate 6-3. Black Bull Inn, Holborn, A84 6-3. Black Swan Inn, Holborn, A81 10-9. Blacksmith's Hall, C29 7-11. Blackwel Hall, B49 7-11. Blossom's Inn, B48 6-9. Bludworth's House, Sir Thomas, Maiden Lane, B3 9-4. Bolt and Tun Inn, Fleet Street, B98 6-10. Brewers Hall, Addle Street, B7 8-17. Brick-Layers Hall, Leaden Hall Street, C52 9-6. Bridewell 9-6. Bridewel Precinct Chapel, Bride Lane 3-9. Bridgwaters House, Earl of, A18 6-2. Brook House 10-11. Buckingham's House, Duke of, C19 6-8. Bull and Mouth Inn, Bull and Mouth Street, A98 10-15. Butchers Hall, C39 9-2. Chancery Office, Chancery Lane, B73 3-6. Charter House 7-7. Christ Church, Newgate Street 7-7. Christ Hospital 7-12. Clayton's House, Sir Robert, Old Jewry, B52 9-1. Clements Inn 6-9. Clerks Hall, Silver Street, B4 9-3. Clifford's Inn 9-16. Cloth Workers Hall, Mincing Lane, C25 6-9. Cooks Hall, Aldersgate Street, C50 6-11. Coopers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B14 9-9. Cordwainers Hall 5-10. Cripple Gate 5-10. Curryers Hall, London Wall, A60 7-2. Cursitor's Office 11-17. Custome house 9-12. Cutlers Hall, Cloak Lane, C21 6-5. David's House, Sir Thomas. Snow Hill, B34 5-16. Devonshire House, A73 9-9. Doctors Commons, C10 3-7. Dorchester's House, Marquess of, A13 7-14. Drapers Hall, B57 6-14. Dutch Church 11-13. Dyers Hall, New Key, Thames Street 8-16. East India House, Leaden Hall Street, B88 6-4. Ely House 10-1. Essex House 6-14. Excise Office, Broad Street, C60 10-15. Fiery Pillar, The [The Monument] 11-14. Fishmongers Hall, Thames Street 9-6. Fleet Bridg 8-5. Fleet [Prison] 7-12. Founders Hall, Loathbury, B56 7-12. Frederick's House, Sir John, Old Jewry, B51 7-14. French Church, B62 6-3. Furnival's Inn 6-6. George Inn, Holborn Bridg, A92 9-10. Gerrard's Hall Inn, C16 5-11. Girdlers Hall, A63 3-10. Glovers Hall, Beech Lane, A20 7-9. Goldsmiths Hall, Foster Lane, B39 5-1. Gray's Inn 7-15. Gresham Colledge 3-7. Grey's House, Lord, A14 8-12. Grocers Hall, B53 7-11. Guild Hall 7-10. Haberdashers Hall, B8 7-12. Hern's House, Sir Nathiel, Loathbury, B54 4-6. Hicks's Hall 7-5. Holborn Bridge —— [Holy] Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [see Trinity Church] —— [Holy] Trinity Minories Church [see Trinity Minories] 9-3. Inner Temple, Inner Temple Lane 10-12. Inn-Holders Hall, Elbow Lane, C34 8-17. Ironmongers Hall, Fenchurch Street, B91 11-11. Joyners Hall, Fryer Lane, Thames Street, C37 6-5. Kings Arms Inn, Holborn Bridg, A90 9-7. King's Printing House, C3 5-11. Lariner's Hall, Fore Street, A78 7-16. Lawrence's House, Sir John, Great St. Hellens, B67 |
8-15. Leaden Hall Market
6-16. Leather-Sellers Hall 7-2. Lincoln's Inn 10-1. Lions Inne 11-14. London Bridg 5-8. London House, A57 9-7. Ludgate 9-10. Lutheran Church, Trinity Lane (N.E. corner Little Trinity Lane) 8-11. Mercer's Chapel 8-14. Merchant-Taylors Hall 10-12. Merchant-Taylors School, Suffolk Lane, C39 9-3. Middle Temple, Middle Temple Lane 8-10. Milkstreet or Hony lane Market —— [Monument, The, see "Fiery Pillar"] 9-17. Navy Office, Mark Lane, C26 10-1. New Inn 2-4. New Prison, or Bridewel, Clerkenwel Green 2-4. Newcastle's House, Duke of, A6 7-6. Newgate 8-7. Newgate Market 10-10. Painters Stainers Hall 8-17. Papillion's House, Mr. Tho., Fenchurch Street, C54 6-14. Pay Office, Broad Street, B22 8-16. Pewterers Hall, Lime Street, C62 7-7. Physicians College, B37 6-14. Pinner's Hall, B21 6-10. Plaisterers Hall, Addle Street, B6 6-15. Post Office, General, Bishopsgate Street Within, B59 8-12. Poultry Compter, B83 9-8. Prerogative Office, St. Paul's Church Yard, C6 8-4. Red Lyon Inn, Fleet Street, B75 7-5. Rose Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A91 8-14. Royal Exchange 7-9. Sadler's Hall, Cheapside, B41 9-13. Salter's Hall, St. Swithins Lane, C23 6-5. Sarazens Head Inn, Snow Hill, A93 9-6. Scotch Hall, C2 6-9. Scriveners Hall 9-3. Serjeant's Inn, Chancery Lane, B97 9-4. Serjeant's Inn, Fleet Street 8-6. Session House, The, Old Bayly 9-8. Sheldon's House, Sir Joseph, St. Paul's Church Yard, C7 8-2. Simond's Inn, Chancery Lane, B71 5-11. Sion College, A61 9-2. Six Clarks Office, Chancery Lane, B72 10-12. Skinners Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C33 5-6. Smithfield Penns 11-1. Somerset House 6-10. St. Alban Wood-Street Church 5-11. St. Alphage Church, London Wall 6-4. St. Andrew Holborn Church 10-15. St. Andrew Hubbart Church, Little East-Cheap [formerly S. side, between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane] 8-16. St. Andrew Undershaft Church, Leaden Hall Street, B66 10-7. St. Andrew Wardrobe Church 6-9. St. Anne Aldersgate Church 9-6. St. Anne Black-Fryers Church 9-12. St. Antholine's Church, Budg Row 8-9. St. Austine's Church 5-7. St. Bartholemew Church, Great 6-7. St. Bartholemew's Church, Little 8-13. St. Bartholemew Exchange Church 6-7. St. Bartholemew's Hospital 8-13. St. Bennet Fink Church 8-15. St. Bennet Grace Church 10-8. St. Bennet Pauls Wharf Church 8-11. St. Bennet Sherehog Church 9-6. St. Bridget's Church 6-9. St. Buttolph Aldersgate Church 6-19. St. Buttolph Aldgate Church 11-15. St. Buttolph Billingsgate Church [formerly S. side of Thames Street between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane] 5-16. St. Buttolph Bishopsgate Church 8-13. St. Christophers Church 10-1. St. Clement Danes Church 9-14. St. Clement's Eastcheap Church 9-3. St. Dunstan's Church 10-16. St. Dunstan's in the East Church 9-14. St. Edmond Lumbard Street Church 6-16. St. Ethelborough Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [immediately N. of Little St. Hellens] 9-8. St. Faith's Church [under-St.-Paul's] 9-16. St. Gabriel Fenchurch Church [absorbed into the roadway of Fenchurch Street, between Rood Lane and Mincing Lane] 10-15. St. George Buttolph Church, C40 4-10. St. Giles's Cripplegate Church 9-8. St. Gregory's Church [site absorbed by St. Paul's] 7-16. St. Hellen's Church 7-18. St. James Dukes Place Church, Dukes Place 10-11. St. James Garlick Hith Church 9-12. St. John Baptist Church 9-9. St. John Evangelist Church, Friday Street [formerly E. side, at the corner of Watling Street, having the latter street on the north] 6-9. St. John Zachary Church, Maiden Lane 8-17. St. Katherine Coleman Church |
8-17. St. Katherine Cree Church, Leaden Hall Street, B68
10-13. St. Laurence Poultney Church 7-11. St. Lawrence Jewry Church 10-15. St. Leonard East Cheap Church 7-9. St. Leonard Foster-Lane Church 11-14. St. Magnus Church, Thames Street, C59 9-13. St. Mary Abchurch Church 6-11. St. Mary Aldermanbury Church 9-11. St. Mary Aldermary Church 9-12. St. Mary Bothaw Church 6-11. St. Mary Cole Church, Cheapside [formerly S.W. corner of Old Jewry] 10-16. St. Mary Hill Church, C43 8-10. St. Mary le Bow Church 7-10. St. Mary Magdalen's Church, Milk Street [site absorbed into Hony lane Market] 10-9. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish Street Church 10-9. St. Mary Mounthaw Church 10-9. St. Mary Somerset Church 6-9. St. Mary Staining Church, Oat Lane 8-12. St. Mary Wool Church [site absorbed into Wool Church Market] 8-13. St. Mary Woolnoth Church, Lumbard Street [opposite Pope's Head Alley] 7-12. St. Margaret Loathbury Church 9-9. St. Margaret Moses Church, Friday Street [formerly S.W. corner of Basing Lane] 9-15. St. Margaret Patton's Church 10-15. St. Margaret's New Fish Street Church [site absorbed by the Monument] 7-11. St. Martin Ironmonger Church, Ironmonger Lane [formerly adjoining the west end of St. Olave Jewry] 8-7. St. Martin Ludgate Church 10-13. St. Martin Orgar's Church 7-15. St. Martin Outwich Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [S.E. corner of Thread Needle Street] 10-11. St. Martin Vintry Church 8-9. St. Mathew Friday Street Church 9-10. St. Mildred Bread-Street Church 8-12. St. Mildred Poultry Church, B84 6-11. St. Michael Bassishaw Church 8-14. St. Michael Cornhil 10-14. St. Michael Crooked Lane Church 10-10. St. Michael Queen Hith Church 7-9. St. Michael Quern Church, Cheapside [site absorbed into roadway of Cheapside at junction of Pater Noster Row and Blow Bladder Street] 9-11. St. Michael Royal Church 7-9. St. Michael Wood-Street Church, B45 9-13. St. Nicholas Acorn Church 9-9. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby Church, Old Fish Street (N.W. corner of Old Fish St. Hill) 9-10. St. Nicholas Olave's Church, Bread-Street Hill [formerly near middle of W. side] 9-17. St. Olave Hart-street Church, C27 7-12. St. Olave Jewry Church 5-10. St. Olave Silver Street Church 8-11. St. Pancras Soaper Lane Church 9-8. St. Paul's Cathedral 9-8. St. Paul's House, Dean of, St. Paul's Church Yard, C5 11-18. [St. Peter-ad-Vincula] Church, Tower of London 7-10. St. Peter Cheap Church 6-14. St. Peter Poor Church 10-8. St. Peter's Church 8-14. St. Peter's Cornhil 7-6. St. Sephlcher's Church 6-12. St. Stephen Coleman Street Church, B56 9-12. St. Stephen Walbrook Church 10-12. St. Swithin Church, Cannon Street 9-11. St. Thomas Apostles Church, St. Thomas Apostles 7-9. St. Vedast Church, B40 6-2. Staple Inn 8-7. Stationers Hall 6-5. Swan Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A89 6-10. Swan with Two Necks Inn, Ladd Lane, B11 9-12. Tallow Chandlers Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C22 10-3. Temple Church 5-9. Thanet House, A58 6-4. Thavy's Inn, Holborn, A86 11-19. Tower, The —— Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [site occupied by Lutheran Church, which see] 10-17. Trinity House, Water Lane, C45 8-19. Trinity Minories Church, B70 9-8. Turners House, Sir William, St. Paul's Church Yard, C4 11-11. Vintonners Hall 8-13. Vyner's House, Sir Robert, Lumbard Street, B85 10-13. Ward's House, Sir Patient, Lawrence Poultney's Hill, C38 6-1. Warwick House 11-13. Watermans Hall, New Key, Thames Street, C28 11-13. Waterman's House, Sir George, Thames Street, C57 7-10. Wax Chandellors Hall, Maiden Lane, B43 6-11. Weavers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B13 8-17. Whitchurch House, Leaden Hall Street, C53 10-11. Whittington's College, College Hill, m15 7-10. Wood Street Compter, B46 9-12. Wool Church Market | |||
