Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine/Chapter 16

by Edward Hull

CHAPTER XVI.

JEEUSALEM, BETHLEHEM, AND SOLOMON'S POOLS.

We were very kindly received by the friends of the Palestine Survey in Jerusalem, including H.B.M. Consul, Mr. Noel T. Moore; the American Consul, Dr. Selah Merrill, Dr. Chaplin, Dr. Sandreczky, the Rev. A. H. Kelk, and Mr. Schick. Preparations were set on foot for a visit to Bethlehem and the Pools of Solomon, the Jordan Valley, and Jericho. Meanwhile we examined the quarries and rock-exposures in the vicinity of the Holy City.

The geological structure of the district is sufficiently simple to be explained within a short compass. Jerusalem itself is built on a platform of nearly horizontal strata of limestone, bounded in every direction except the north by deep valleys, along which the beds occasionally crop out in gently sloping courses. The valley along which the plateau terminates on the east is the Wâdy Sitti Mariana, or Valley of Jehoshaphat; that on the west is the Wâdy Rahâbi, or Valley of Hinnom, and these two unite to form the Wâdy-en-Nâr, or the Valley of the Kedron, which follows a somewhat irregular course towards the south and east till it enters the Salt Sea south of Râs Feshkah. The Valley of Jehoshaphat is 204 feet in depth under the Mosque of Omar, and is bounded on the east by the Mount of Olives, which at Kefr-el-Tûr reaches an elevation of 2,683 feet above the level of the Mediterranean.^[1] The hills to the outside of the valleys are somewhat higher than the Jerusalem platform, and thus, as has been often remarked, bear out the beautiful simile of Psalm cxxv, 2. They are composed of similar calcareous strata, and have a slight dip towards the south in the direction of the general drainage of the country. The valleys are therefore due to erosion facilitated by the solvent action of water containing carbonic acid gas; the present streams, however, are only periodical and intermittent; and it is probable that the remarkably deep valleys of the table-land of Palestine, as well as the principal physical features, were hollowed out and sculptured at a time when the amount of rainfall was much greater than at present, and when these valleys and ravines formed the channels of swift perennial rivers. It is impossible to suppose that such deep and precipitous ravines as that of the Kedron at Mar Saba, and of the Cherith near Jericho, can be due to the action of the little rills that from time to time creep along their beds.^[2]

Viewed on a large scale the limestone table-land of Judæa forms a great arch, near the centre of which is situated the capital of the country. As we have already observed, the general dip of the strata on entering the table-land at Bab-el-Wâdy is westward; but as we ascend towards the higher elevations in an easterly direction the strata become flatter, and at length, at Beit Nakuba, they assume a nearly horizontal position. This continues as far as Jerusalem, where the beds begin to slope gently towards the south, and on passing by Bethany, and onwards along the road to Jericho, we find the dip to take a strong easterly trend, until close to the margin of the Jordan Valley, where they again approach the horizontal position. Over the whole of this region the depth of soil is exceedingly slight, and the solid framework may be clearly seen. "Where the beds are horizontal they crop out along the sides of the deep glens and profound ravines in courses and ledges, the upper surfaces of which support a little reddish soil and a vegetation of small plants, but capable when cultivated of being turned to excellent account. The rock itself presents considerable variations in character as well as colour. Around Jerusalem it produces not only a solid and durable white building stone, but marbles of red, pink, and yellow colours capable of receiving a fine polish. In other places it is mottled, veined, or pure white. The upper beds, which occur in the direction of the Jordan Valley, contain numerous bands of dark chert (or flint); and where the strata are contorted, these bauds, which are exceedingly hard, stand out on the hillsides and describe curiously curved lines and patterns which may be seen from considerable distances. All these strata, whether calcareous or silicious, are of organic origin, and were deposited below the waters of the sea during the Cretaceous and early Tertiary periods. Dr. Fraas, in his geological map of the environs of Jerusalem,^[3] shows that the strata consist of the following in descending order:—

1. Craie blanche (white chalk). Senonien, D'Orb.

2. Etage supérieur des Hippurites (locally called "Misseh").

3. Etage inférieur des Hippurites (locally called "Melekeh").

4. Zone des Ammonites rhotamargensis. Senonien, D'Orb.

The above strata are of Cretaceous age, but in the upper Hippurite limestone Dr. Fraas found nummulites, from which it would appear that there is a passage in this region from the Cretaceous into the lower Tertiary strata. Mr. Etheridge, also, identifies the uppermost strata of the Mount of Olives as of nummulitic Tertiary age.

The beds of the upper Hippurite stage ("Misseh") have yielded the large blocks used in the ancient structures of Jerusalem, such as those of the Wailing Place of the Jews, which have been extracted from the quarries near the Damascus Gate. They also yield the blocks used for ornamental purposes and works of art at the present day.

Sir Charles Wilson has shown that the reservoirs, sepulchres, and cellars under, and around, the sacred city are hewn out of the softer beds of the lower Hippurite limestone ("Melekeh") underneath the firmer and more durable marble beds of the upper zone. But, throughout Palestine and Arabia Petræa, the Cretaceous and Tertiary limestones are so intimately connected that it would be impossible, without a long and detailed survey, to represent on a geological map their respective limits.

It is not my intention in this place to inflict upon my readers my views regarding the sights and objects, sacred or secular, real or pretended, with which Jerusalem abounds, though I may have a little to add on some of these topics further on. I shall, therefore, restrict myself to the personal narrative of our Expedition down to the time when we bid farewell to Palestine and Syria.

From Jerusalem as a centre we had arranged to make excursions, southwards, to Bethlehem and the Pools of Solomon, and eastwards, to the Jordan Valley and Jericho, after which we were to proceed on horseback through North-Western Palestine, to visit the Sea of Galilee; and crossing the country to Hâifa and Mount Carmel, to proceed northwards along the coast to Beyrût, from which we should leave for Europe. Events beyond our control prevented the accomplishment of the last stage of our programme, as will be seen in the sequel.

January 12th.—We left Jerusalem early for the Pools of Solomon, and passing through the Jaffa Gate, proceeded southwards by the Hebron road, if such it could be called, as it is in many places in a semi-chaotic condition, rendering an occcasional excursus into the fields alongside desirable or prudent. Everywhere along our route there were signs of improvement, barren spots being reclaimed and cultivated, fields enclosed and cleared of stones, and olive groves planted on the hill slopes. At length, after a ride which tried the mettle of our little horses, and sometimes the patience of the riders, we reached the brow of the valley in which are situated these remarkable reservoirs.^[4] They are supposed to be referred to in Ecclesiastes ii, 6, but though the statement, "I made me pools of water," is a general one, there is little reason to doubt that these pools are included therein. The aqueduct which originally connected these reservoirs with the city has been partially cleared by Colonels Wilson and Warren, and is capable of being again utilised for the purpose. I was informed that the Baroness Burdett-Coutts, some time ago, offered at her own expense to have the water from the Pools re-introduced into Jerusalem, where it would have afforded a permanent and abundant supply of excellent spring water. Permission had, in the first instance, to be obtained from the Pasha, who replied, "Very well, give me the money and I will have the work done." To this her ladyship replied, "Thank you, but I fear if I hand you the money I shall never see either it or the water. If I have the work done, I shall employ English engineers and English workmen to do it, and entrust the supervision to Captain Wilson." This difficulty, however, was ultimately got over; but a fatal obstacle was raised by the Turkish authorities on the question of distribution of the water and the permanent management,^[5] so that the desire of this noble-hearted lady to confer a permanent benefit upon the inhabitants of the city, Mohammedans as well as Christians, has been frustrated through Turkish obstinacy! The cost was estimated at thirty thousand pounds sterling.

The Pools, by whomsoever constructed, are certainly of great antiquity, and of excellent workmanship. They are still in remarkably good preservation, and could easily be put into perfect order. Their construction at this spot is doubtless due to the existence of a fine spring of water, which is still utilised for the supply of Bethlehem, to which place it is conducted by a culvert which runs along the side of the valley with a gradual downward slope. On descending the hill by the large Turkish castle which has been built close to the upper pool, the unusual sound of running and falling water saluted our ears. The spring rises in the limestone hills above the pool to the northwards and enters the pool by an underground culvert which may be examined by means of a ladder giving access thereto a few feet below the surface. The aqueduct was repaired and lined with pipes by the Crusaders, after which it again fell into ruin, but was opened and explored by Colonels Wilson and Warren. There is a fall of about 400 feet towards Jerusalem.^[6] On our way down the valley towards Bethlehem, we noticed ancient terraces which had doubtless once been fruitful vineyards or olive-yards; and on turning the angle of the valley towards the left, we beheld at our feet "the Gardens of Solomon," neatly laid out over the bed of the valley, and extending, according to Canon Tristram, for more than two miles in all, from the little village of Urtas. This spot was first reclaimed and cultivated about thirty years ago by Mr. Meshullam, a converted Jew, who settled down here with the object of proving that the land if cultivated was capable of producing a rich return to the cultivator. Soon after some fellahin followed and settled by his side; Germans followed, and patch after patch was brought under culture, and now the whole valley has been converted into a series of well-tilled gardens, producing vegetables for the Jerusalem market, besides numerous fruit trees, such as those of the apricot, peach, almond, fig, and pomegranate. The hillsides are also being banked up into terraces for the growth of vines and olive-trees. It can scarcely be denied, after viewing the pretty picture of a garden valley, that Meshullam has succeeded in demonstrating that the vales of Palestine are capable of becoming as fruitful as in former ages, if only persevering industry be applied to the work of reclamation.

Following a pathway, along which the aqueduct is carried, we turned another angle of the valley, and came in sight of Bethlehem as seen from the south; the City of David and the birthplace of the Messiah.

Bethlehem is now altogether a Christian town, and has a thriving and progressive appearance. The top of the ridge on which it is built is covered by substantial stone houses, while the valleys around are clothed with verdure, and planted out in extensive olive gardens. Terrace succeeds terrace from the bottom to the summits of the hills, which are steep-sided, and require to be thus laid out in order to afford footing to the plants. The work of construction must have been labourious, and brings to mind some of the vine terraces along the banks of the Rhine. Through these olive groves our pathway lay; and having climbed to the summit of the hill we entered the city, and after winding through narrow streets and passages, we at length found ourselves in front of the Franciscan Convent adjoining the Church of the Nativity. Here we were admitted by a brother who recognised our conductor, Bernhard Heilpern, and after a short consultation we were shown into the Guest Hall, where lunch, which we carried with us, was spread. Here we partook of the Convent wine, grown on the spot, which was good; and of the Convent coffee, which was better!

After lunch we proceeded to visit "the Holy Places," and the interior of the church. It was strange to see a Turkish soldier keeping guard while service was proceeding in the Greek portion of the building; but since 1873, when an attack was made by the Greeks on the Romans, a guard is always present to keep the peace between the rival Christian sects at the birthplace of their Founder, the Prince of Peace. The disgraceful riot referred to above, and the scenes of violence which annually take place at Christmas round the site of the Nativity, are little calculated to impress Moslems with a reverence for Christianity.

Leaving the town, and having passed numerous workshops, where the hum of industry was everywhere to be heard, we turned a little off our road to visit the "Well of David," and observe the extensive prospect from this position. Here we had a view of Bethlehem from the northern side, where it is best seen. Between our position and the City of David lay a wide valley, sloping downwards in the direction of the Jordan depression and partially laid out in gardens, terraced vineyards, and olive groves. On the opposite side the stone and arched buildings cover the sides and summit of the ridge, terminating with the Church and Convent of the Nativity on the left. Turning eastwards, and looking down the valley, we recognised the deep depression of The Ghôr by the haze which rises over the hollow; and beyond was the table-land of Moab, bounded by sides deeply furrowed. At a distance of about four miles from Bethlehem, and on the opposite side of the valley amongst the hills, is a reemarkable elevation with the form of a truncated cone, planted on a nearly level platform, on which Herod the Great erected his summer palace, and also his tomb. Its ancient name was Herodium; its present, Jebel Fureidis. Captain Conder states that this cone is surrounded by a circular wall, on which are four round towers.^[7] Under this is the remarkable Cave of Khureitûn, generally supposed to be the "Cave of Adullam,"^[8] but this is a view in which Conder does not concur.^[9] We may suppose, however, that while David lay in concealment, and his enemies, the Philistines, held possession of Bethlehem and its approaches, the newly anointed king cast longing eyes towards the city of his birth, and the well of whose cool waters he had doubtless drunk when a boy. Parched with thirst and weary of life, "hunted like a partridge on the mountains," he exclaimed, "Oh that one would give me drink of the water of the well of Bethlehem, that is at the gate! "Hearing this exclamation of their king, the three valiant captains, at the risk of their lives, brake through the line of the Philistine guards and drew water from the well. But here the nobility of David's character was strikingly shown. Notwithstanding his thirst, and the ardent longing for water to cool his tongue, he pours out the water on the ground, exclaiming, "Shall I drink the blood of these men which have put their lives in jeopardy" for my sake? How such an act must have endeared David to his soldiers. As one stands by the well, and looks down the valley, the whole scene becomes a vivid reality.

This day's excursion enabled me to get a good idea of the character of the country south of Jerusalem, and of its geological conformation. It consists of beds of limestone, white, yellow, or reddish, sometimes chalky, and with bands of chert. The strata undulate slightly in various directions.

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1. As determined by the Ordnance Survey.
2. I refer here to a period which may be termed "the Pluvial period" for this part of the world, which is represented by the "Glacial" and "post-Glacial" epochs of Britain and Europe. We have already seen evidence of a former Pluvial period in the Sinaitic Desert.
3. Published in 1869.
4. A good account of these pools and the gardens lower down the valley is given by Tristram, "Land of Israel," p. 403. The plan of the conduits is accurately laid down on the maps of the Ordnance Surrey of Jerusalem.
5. Lady Burdett-Coutts desired that the water should be introduced by the high-level aqueduct, which would have entered at the Jaffa Gate and sufficed for the wants of the higlier parts of the city; the Turkish authorities, however, insisted on the low-level aqueduct being used, which would have left a large nortion of the city unbenefited. The existing sources of supply are most impure.
6. The dimensions of these pools are given by Tristram and Baedeker.
7. "Tent Work in Palestine." New edition, p. 152.
8. 1 Chron. xi, 15.
9. Nevertheless, the spot where David was at the time of the narrative, called "the hold," could not have been far distant from Bethlehem.