Narrative of a Visit to the Australian Colonies/Chapter 14
CHAPTER XIV.
Some disagreement having arisen between a person employed as Catechist, at the Establishment for the Aborigines, on Flinders Island, and the officers there, which the Commandant had suggested we might be helpful in reconciling, the Lieut. Governor applied to us on the subject, and after serious consideration, we believed it right to accept his invitation again to visit the Island. The Shamrock cutter was put under our direction for the voyage, and we sailed from Hobart Town on the 22nd of 11th month, Richard H. Davies, being in command of the vessel.
We had on board a party of sixteen Aborigines, who had joined G. A. Robinson, on the west coast. When we were first introduced to them, they were smeared from head to foot with red ochre and grease; and, to add to their adornment, some of them had blackened a space of about a hand's breadth, on each side of their faces, their eyes being nearly in the centre of each black mark! Some of the elderly women were as far removed from handsome as human beings could well be. As they sat naked upon the ground, with their knees up, and their heads bare, their resemblance to Oran-outangs was such as to afford some apology for those who have represented them as allied to those animals. Some of the younger women were of a more agreeable appearance; a man in the company was tall, and of features so patriarchal and Jewish, as strongly to resemble pictures designed to represent Abraham. He was blind of one eye, which we understood he had lost some years ago, by a shot from a white man.
I am not aware of any custom of the Aborigines of V. D. Land, common with the Jews, except it be of not eating fat. This they so much abhor as even to reject bread, cut with a buttery knife. On my companion offering some soup to a poor emaciated woman, on board the cutter, who had a baby that looked half-starved, she tried to take it, seeing it was offered in good will; but having a little fat upon it, she recoiled from it with nausea. John R. Bateman, master of the brig Tamar, once had some soup made for a party of these people, whom he was taking to Flinders Island: they looked upon it complacently, skimmed off the floating fat with their hands, and smeared their hair with it, but would not drink the soup!
The wind being unfavourable, we anchored at the mouth of D'Entrecasteaux Channel, where the Government brig Isabella, with English emigrants for Launceston, and the Adelaide, a vessel in the Sperm Whale fishery, were lying.—A great number of emigrants have lately arrived from England. Many of them are mechanics, who cannot find employment in Hobart Town, in consequence of the number that have preceded them. As this class of emigrants is wanted in Launceston, the Government has undertaken to convey them thither. Persons wanting places as clerks, find great difficulty in obtaining situations in new colonies.—We went on shore at Kelleys Farm, on Bruny Island; where vessels are frequently furnished with potatoes, eggs, fowls, &c. The land is of fair quality, but the adjacent hills are sandy, and thin of soil and herbage. This island is nearly covered with wood like that of the main land, and has a few Austral Grass-trees interspersed among them.
11th mo. 23rd. Very wet; the wind contrary. The decks were so leaky that it was difficult to find a dry place to sit in, in the cabin; happily, no wet of any consequence came into our berths. The poor Aborigines had to sleep under a tent, formed of a sail, on deck, the hold being occupied with provisions, which it was hoped would have been delivered at Port Arthur yesterday. They seemed, nevertheless, con- tented and cheerful.
25th. We reached Port Arthur, which is greatly improved since we were here before, though much still requires to be done before it can be fully effective for the purpose of a Penal Settlement. A good penitentiary, and a place of worship are much wanted. The Penitentiary in use consists only of bark huts, surrounded with a high, stockade fence. One hut is appropriated to educated prisoners, who are now, in many instances, sent here on their arrival in the Colony, being considered as having abused their advantages more than the uneducated. This class of prisoners feel their degradation greatly: they are occupied in manual labour in the settlement gardens. The other prisoners are divided into a chain-gang, and a first and second class, distinguished by the kind of labour allotted them, by their clothing, and by the second class having an allowance of tea and sugar. This classification produces a good effect. Captain Charles O'Hara Booth, the Commandant, has succeeded in establishing a more strict discipline than his predecessors, and in some respects, than that pursued at Macquarie Harbour: he has abolished the use of that great desideratum with prisoners—tobacco. The health of the prisoners is generally good, though cases of scurvy have of late increased. In the afternoon we walked with Capt. Booth to the signal-station, two miles and a half distant, through forests of Stringy-bark, Blue-gum, White-gum, Myrtle, Sasafras, Tree-fern, &c. an assemblage proving the climate to be somewhat humid; it is, however, much drier than that of Macquarie Harbour.
26th. We accompanied Captain Booth to Eagle Hawk Neck, the isthmus separating Tasmans Peninsula, on which Port Arthur is situated, from Forestiers Peninsula, which is connected with the main land. The distance, after leaving a boat at the head of Long Bay, was about eleven miles, which we walked in a soaking rain.—A guard of soldiers is stationed at Eagle Hawk Neck, which is only 120 yards across, at high tide; and to make the barrier more secure, nine watch dogs are placed at intervals, with nine lamps between them. Constables are also stationed at several outposts. By these means escape from the Penal Settlement is rendered very difficult. The dogs soon give notice of the approach of any person. Some of the hills on Tasmans Peninsula may be about 1,000 feet high, and much of the forest with which it is covered, is very dense.
28th. We visited a company of prisoner brick-makers, and proceeded to the coast, betwixt Cape Roaul and the entrance to Port Arthur, to see a remarkable chasm in the basalt. It is about 127 feet deep, and very narrow. The sea may be heard rushing up it. In the course of our walk, we had much conversation with Captain Booth, of a satisfactory character. From what we see and learn, we are disposed to consider that the punishment of Port Arthur, consists in its restraint, rather than in any excessive degree of labour that is exacted. The prisoners work with reluctance. The privations of liberty and society, with the vigilant superintendence, are keenly felt. The generality of prisoners look upon themselves as the aggrieved parties, which is much to be regretted: when they take an opposite view it is to be regarded as a token of reformation. No prisoners are now allowed private gardens; none but the boat's crew are allowed to fish, and none are allowed to hunt.
29th. We anchored in Safety Cove, the wind being contrary. G. W. Walker and myself went on shore, and walked to the coast, in the direction of Cape Roaul, on a steep sandy part of which, the white variety of Helichrysum bracteatum is found; also Hierochloe australis, a fragrant grass. In the afternoon we went on shore on a fishing excursion, and obtained a plentiful supply of Muttton-fish, Haliotis laevigata, from the rocks, at low-water. They were mostly under the kelp, immersed in the sea, and were dislodged by means of sharp-pointed sticks. Some of the women went into the water among the large sea-tangle, to take Cray-fish. These women seem quite at home in the water, and frequently immerse their faces to enable them to see objects at the bottom. When they discover the object of their search, they dive, often using the long stems of the kelp to enable them to reach the bottom; these they handle as dexterously in descending, as a sailor would a rope, in ascending.
We sailed from Port Arthur on the 30th of 11th mo. After rounding Cape Pillar, the swell, which had been left by a recent gale, was very trying. We passed to the eastward of Maria Island, and sighted Cape Barren Island, in Banks's Strait, at daylight, on the 2nd of 12th mo.—Sailing west of Preservation Island, we anchored under Green Island, at high tide; and a gale from the south-east occasioned the vessel to drive, so that it was left dry at low water, lying down to one side very uncomfortably, but without further damage.—In consequence of this accident, the Aborigines were put on shore on Green Island, where they had a feast of Mutton Birds and their eggs, and smeared themselves from head to foot with red ochre and grease. The multitude of birds returning to the island in the evening was so great that it was difficult to conceive how each pair would find a burrow. The Aborigines from Flinders Island had been here, and we learned that they had collected 8,000 eggs: countless numbers were, however, still left: they had also destroyed great numbers of birds, which were scattered in all directions over the island.
12th mo. 3rd. Being landed by a whale-boat, at the Lagoons, the site of the old settlement on Flinders Island, we made our way along the beach, and through the bush, to Wybalenna, where we received a hearty welcome from both the Black and the White Inhabitants; and were much pleased with the improvements, since we were here fourteen months ago. A number of neat huts have been erected, and some land has been converted into gardens. One piece, of more than an acre and a half, has been broken up, fenced, and planted with potatoes, by the Aborigines.
The Aborigines of V. D. Land soon learned to distinguish between free people and prisoners, and shewed a contempt for the latter. The prisoners have adopted the expression, "to plant" a thing, to signify, to hide or conceal it, especially in regard to things stolen. On a Black, on Flinders Island, being asked, if he would like to have some potatoes to plant, he replied, No, with disdain, supposing it was meant to conceal dishonestly; but said he, I should like to have some to put into the ground, that I might see them jump up.
4th. We had a conference with the parties at variance, and endeavoured to soften down the asperities that had arisen between them, in consequence of a conscientious man having expected too much from others, not awakened like himself to the importance of acting in all things on religious principle, and having imbibed some prejudice against them, which had excited disgust on their part.
A large company of the native women took tea with us, at the Commandant's: they conducted themselves in a very orderly manner, and after washing up the tea-things, put them in their places, and showed other indications of advancement in civilization. They are gaining a taste for European provisions, particularly for milk and mutton.
5th. Another party of Aborigines breakfasted with us. We distributed among them some cotton handkerchiefs, and some tobacco, an article of which they are exceedingly fond, but the use of which they have learned from Europeans. Some of the women immediately commenced hemming the handkerchiefs, having learned this art from the wife of the Catechist. They presented us with some spears and shell necklaces in return. The Surgeon brought the new comers in a boat from Green Island, having first successfully assisted in getting the Shamrock off the sands, into deep water.—On the arrival of the new party, it was found that the husband of one, and the father of another, who had come hither before them, were deceased; but this did not, in these instances, produce much emotion.—Accompanied by the Commandant of the Settlement, the Master of the Shamrock, and an intelligent native, we visited the Grass-tree plains that extend toward the east coast. The soil is sandy and poor, and clothed with thin rigid herbage, and scattered, low Gum-trees, low scrub, and large Grass-trees, Xanthorrheea australis? Some of the last are from 5 to 7 feet high, and as many in circumference; they have leaves 3 to 4 feet long, and flower-spikes 5 to 10 feet high, thickly clothed with hard scales, and small, white, star-like flowers, except for about 1½ feet at the base, which is bare. All the trunks are charred from 
Flinders Island Grass Trees
the burning off of the scrub. Abundance of red resin, capable of being used in the manufacture of sealing wax and French-polish, is exuded by them. This substance fills up the places left by the decay of the flower-stems of former years, and by injuries; it is also lodged abundantly around the base of the trunk, which is thus defended from an excess of moisture. The blanched base of the leaves, which our swarthy companion obtained for us, by beating off the head of a Grass-tree that had not thrown up a flower-stem, is pleasant eating, and has a nutty flavour. A species of Isopogon occurs on these plains. This is probably the most southern locality of the genus.
The Grass-tree plains, which are represented in the accompanying etching, are separated from the west coast, by a range of granite hills, covered with Common and Blue Gumtrees, Oyster Bay Pine, &c.
The low ground about the Settlement, is clothed with long grass, and with Leucopogon Gnidium and Fabricia myrtifolia, handsome, white-flowered shrubs, here attaining to 20 feet high, and with a few bushy species of Acacia, &c. These are decorated by the lovely climbers Clematis aristata and Comesperma volubilis; the former of delicate white and the latter of lively blue.
6th. We visited Prime Seal Island, distant about eight miles. This also is a granite island. Black fibrous Schorl, here called Jet, is imbedded in the rock, in the cavities of which, large crystals are also met with.—In the low part of the Island, there were patches of an unrecorded species of Lasiopetulum, with purple flowers. Croton rosmarinifolium, a pretty, privet-like bush, forms thickets, both here and on Flinders, where it is also interspersed with She-oak.—The Wallaby abounds here. Several were killed by the natives who accompanied us. Some of these people only eat the male animals, others only the females. We were unable to learn the reason of this, but they so strictly adhere to the practice, that it is said, hunger will not drive them to deviate from it. This island did not prove favourable for sheep, It was formerly the resort of vast herds of Fur Seals; but they have nearly forsaken both it and many of the neighbouring ones, in consequence of the slaughter committed among them by the sealers. We saw a few on an adjacent rock.
7th. Some of the male Aborigines amused themselves with throwing waddies and spears at grass-tree stems, set up as marks, which they frequently hit. They still strip off their clothes when engaged in this amusement; but in wearing decent covering at other times, as well as in many other respects, they shew decided marks of advancing civilization.—In dressing their spears, they use a sharp flint or a knife: in using the latter for this purpose, they hold it by the end of the blade. They straighten their spears till they balance as accurately as a well prepared fishing-rod, performing this operation with their teeth. The simplicity of the weapons of these people, has been urged as a proof of their defect of intellect, but it is much more a proof of their dexterity, in being able, with such simple implements, to procure game, &c. for food. A shower of their spears, which they send through the air with a quivering motion, would be terribly destructive.
The climbing of the lofty, smooth-trunked gum-trees, by the women, to obtain opossums, which lodge in the hollows of decayed branches, is one of the most remarkable feats I ever witnessed. This is effected without making any holes for the thumbs or great toes, as is common among the natives of N. S. Wales, except where the bark is rough and loose, at the base of the tree. In this a few notches are cut by means of a sharp flint, or a hatchet; the latter being preferred. A rope, twice as long as is necessary to encompass the tree, is then thrown around it. In former times, this was made of tough grass, or strips of Kangaroo skin, but one of hemp is now generally used. The left hand is twisted firmly into one end of the rope, the middle of which is tightly grasped by the right, the hatchet is placed on the bare, closely-cropped head, and the feet are placed against the tree: a step or two is then advanced, and the body, at the same time, is brought into a posture so nearly erect as to admit the rope, by a compound motion, to be slackened, and at the same moment hitched a little further up the tree.—By this means a woman will ascend a lofty tree with a smooth trunk, almost as quickly as a man would go up a ladder. Should a piece of loose bark impede the ascent of the rope, the portion of the rope held in the right hand, is taken between the teeth, or swung behind the right leg, and caught between the great and the fore toe, and fixed against the tree. One hand is thus freed, to take the hatchet from the head, and with it to dislodge the loose bark.—On arriving at a large limb, the middle of the rope is also secured in the left hand, and the loose end is thrown over the limb by the right hand, by which also the end is caught, and the middle grasped, till the left hand is cleared. This is then wrapped into the middle of the rope, and the feet are brought up to the wrinkles of the bark, which exist below the large limbs. One end of the rope is then pulled downward, and this causes the other to ascend, so that, by an effort of the feet, the body is turned on to the upper side of the limb of the tree.—In descending, the woman places one arm on each side of the limb of the tree, and swings the rope with one hand till she catches it with the other: she then turns off the limb, and swings underneath it, till she succeeds in steadying herself with her feet against the trunk, around which she then throws the loose end of the rope. Having secured this, she lets go the portion by which she was suspended under the limb, and descends in the manner in which she ascended.—Although this is done with ease by women in vigour, one who had been out of health, but seemed recovered, could not get many steps off the ground, so that not only skill, but a considerable measure of strength, appears necessary to ascend the gigantic gum-trees.
After having seen something of the natives of V. D. Land, the conviction was forced upon my mind, that they exceeded Europeans in skill, in those things to which their attention had been directed from childhood, just as much as Europeans exceeded them, in the points to which the attention of the former had been turned, under the culture of civilization. There is similar variety of talent and of temper among the Tasmanian Aborigines, to what is to be found among other branches of the human family; and it would not be more erroneous in one of these people, to look upon an English woman as defective in capacity, because she could neither dive into the deep and bring up cray-fish, nor ascend the lofty gum-trees to catch opossums for her family, than it would be for an English woman to look upon the Tasmanian as defective in capacity, because she could neither sew nor read, nor perform the duties of civil, domestic life. Were the two to change stations, it is not too much to assume, that the untutored native of the woods would much sooner learn to obtain her food, by acquiring the arts of civilization, than the woman from civilized society would, by acquiring the arts belonging to savage life.
8th. The Aborigines, having noticed that the few soldiers at this station, who were placed as a guard against the Sealers, were mustered on First-day mornings, to see that they had made themselves properly clean, voluntarily commenced mustering in a similar way: they also brought out the wares with which they had been entrusted, to have them inspected. The Commandant took advantage of this, and encouraged them to do so weekly. This morning they presented their tin pots and plates, knives and spoons, bright and clean, and except three men, were clean in their apparel. These men complained, that the women had not washed their clothes, and threatened to wash them themselves, if they should again be so neglected! The men were dressed in duck frocks and trowsers, and had handkerchiefs about their necks. The women had on stuff under-garments, and checked bedgowns, and had handkerchiefs on their heads and around their shoulders. Many of their countenances were fine and expressive. It was surprising to see how much improved some of the most unsightly of the women had become by being decently clad: they scarcely looked like the same race of beings. They afterwards assembled in a very orderly manner, with the white people, in the rude shelter of boughs, used as a chapel. On this occasion a portion of Scripture was read by G. W. Walker; after which I had a little to communicate in the line of ministry.—There was something peculiarly moving, in seeing nearly the whole of the remaining Aborigines of Van Diemens Land, now a mere handful of people, seated on the ground, listening with much attention to the truths of the gospel, however little they might be able to understand what was said, and conducting themselves with equal gravity in the times of silence.
9th. Several of the Aborigines were out hunting: they obtained little but a Tasmanian Porcupine. The Wallaby and Brush Kangaroo are become scarce on Flinders Island, in consequence of the improvidence of the people in killing all they can, when they have opportunity, and often more than their wants require. Snakes are common on these islands. Three kinds have come under our notice—the large black species, the one with red sides, Coluber porphyryaceus, and a smaller species called here, the Diamond Snake—all of which are dangerously venomous. Some large ticks were sticking to the sides of one of the red snakes.
10th. We dined with the Catechist, who has taken considerable pains to instruct the Aborigines, and to acquire their language: he has translated the first three chapters of Genesis into one of their dialects.—Finding that the cutter must proceed to Launceston for supplies, we concluded to accompany it, and sailed this evening.
11th. After a fine voyage, we entered the Tamar early, the eastern headland of which is rendered much more distinguishable by a newly-erected lighthouse. On bringing up at George Town, we found the inhabitants in great alarm: they had been keeping guard all night, in consequence of a party of bush-rangers having entered one of their houses, the preceding evening, and robbed it, after binding the master. Circumstances of this kind are of rare occurrence at the present day.
12th. We had a pleasant sail, with the help of the tide, to near Launceston, where we arrived in the course of the day, and met with warm greetings from our acquaintance.