Notes of a journey across the Isthmus of Krà/Letter
Pulo Penang, April 8th, 1883.
To Lieut. Bellion,
In Charge of the Kra Expedition,
&c., &c., &c.,
My dear Commandant,
As I have, at your request, accompanied the Krà Expedition throughout, and you wish for my private opinion on this subject, I have pleasure in giving the same, as frankly and unreservedly as you ask it.
Here then is my unbiassed conviction which I have formed from my experience and knowledge of the country, extending over a period of twenty-eight years, and from what I have seen during the late Expedition, I may safely state that from Singapore to the parallel of Bangkok Bar there is not any portion of the Malay Peninsula practicable for the excavation of a ship canal that would answer any profitable purpose.
I may say, that such a scheme is impossible, for it is well known that there is only one road and very few jungle tracks across the Peninsula.
The road I speak of extends from Singora[1] to Quedah,[2] and is very serpentine and undulating amongst the hills in the interior, where it reaches an elevation of 1,100 to 1,300 feet. It is scarcely worth the name of a road, but it is the best across the Peninsula. The jungle tracks are very narrow, and, whilst running in various directions, are exceedingly tortuous and undulating, sometimes in valleys, and by the slopes of hills, and in some parts over their tops, at elevations from 50 to 800 feet.
It is also well known that the whole of the Malay Peninsula is formed of mountain ranges running parallel to each other with detached mountains and hills of high altitude, forming a complete and intricate barrier on both seaboards. I have seen and noticed the profile of the Malay Peninsula from elevated positions in the Gulf of Siam and Bay of Bengal, and nothing but an unbroken line of high land was discernable. No signs of a valley or opening in any direction.
The jungle track from Krà to Chumpon is the best, and is of lower elevation than any of the others, but at the some time it possesses the same characteristics, in outline and natural features, as those in other parts of the Malay Peninsula, viz:—it is exceedingly tortuous and uneven.
My own observations prove this, and doubtless the engineers' plans will confirm it. No direct line or anything approaching to one exists amongst the innumerable and intricate cluster of hills through which the Krà Route wends its course, and although the elevation is but 250 feet, and probably the bed of the adjacent Klong thirty or forty feet lower, it presents such a gigantic mass of stone cutting, extending as it does two thirds of the distance across the Peninsula, that it would require the wealth of a nation and a century to accomplish.
Now for the next point in the proposed canal scheme—
Supposing a canal could be cut from Krà to Chumpon, it would avail nothing, as the upper half of the Pakchan river is both serpentine and narrow and blocked up with sand banks, and is suitable only for the navigation of steam launches and trading boats; even these frequently get aground in passing up and down.
Again, supposing all obstacles could be overcome to this point, and the entrance of the canal could be situated at some navigable position north of Melliwan, even then the scheme would be as insurmountable as before, for the intricate mass of lofty mountain chains in this neighbourhood would preclude all possibility of making a direct or indirect cut obliquely from any part of the left bank of the Pakchan river to any point on the jungle track east of Krà Pass. I think one glance of the country about here would convince the most sanguine of the impossibility of such an undertaking.
Now for the last point and not the least in importance—
We must again suppose the canal and Pakchan river practicable. There is still remaining another item of considerable difficulty to get over, viz:—the intricate channels at the entrance of the Pakchan.
These are two—one north and the other south of Victoria Island. The former channel is narrow and tortuous, studded with sunken rocks and shifting sand banks. The south channel is better in this respect, and unquestionably the best of the two. The south passage is between two rocky points, half a mile wide, with sand banks on the larboard hand in entering, and a bar of sand and mud on the east side of Victoria Island with depths of two and a half and two and three quarters fathoms upon it. This channel is open and exposed to the full force of the S.W. monsoon, and although it might, if lighted and marked properly, be considered fairly safe for small sized steamers, it is unquestionably the reverse for vessels of large tonnage.
I have had considerable experience in navigating the eastern seas, and looking at this question from a purely seaman's point of view, I declare my opinion without hesitation, that it would be highly imprudent and dangerous for any mail steamer or large vessel to attempt this passage during the thick and heavy weather too frequently experienced on this coast in the S.W monsoon.
Those who know this channel use it in day-light, and hold similar views to my own respecting its navigation.
In conclusion, I have pleasure in saying that I have never met with more amiable or competent gentlemen in a survey field before, and on my taking leave of you, I give you my best wishes for your future prosperity and happiness.
I remain,
My dear Commandant,
Yours sincerely,
ALFRED. J. LOFTUS.