Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 17/Diary of Rev. Jason Lee
DIARY OF REV. JASON LEE
EDITORIAL NOTE.
Left Stanstead, Lower Canada, August 19, 1833.
Sunday, April 20, 1834, arrived at Liberty, Mo., on my way to the Flat Head Indians.
Sunday evening Attempted to preach in the Court House, but when about half through, the wind frightened the people away and I dismissed by pronouncing the blessing, although I did not apprehend any danger.
21.—Monday, P. M. Rained very hard. Daniel went to look for Bro. Munroc and, if possible persuade him to. go with us.
22.—Went 9 miles to Independence and found Brother Shepard and slept very comfortably with him in the tent designed for our journey. Felt thankful that we had arrived safe without accident to the [place] where we were to prepare for our overland trip.
23.—This has been spent in making preparation for our departure.
24.—This evening D. returned though he could not succeed in getting the man for whom he went, yet he engaged two others, one of whom I had conversed with on the subject and think he will do well to teach the Indians.
April 25.—Went over to Liberty and finished our business and accompanied our two friends to our encampment. Took leave of Mr. and [Mrs.] Kelly, who kindly and gratuitously entertained us while at Liberty.
Saturday.—Purchased some cows and more horses and removed 4 miles from the river with the intention of camping with Capt. Wyeth[1] about 9 miles from the river, but was belated and accepted an invitation to turn in and lodge with a man by name Rickman,—pitched our tent. Part lodged in the house and part in the tent. He took nothing for our entertainment.
Sun. 27.—Prayed with the family and took our departure as soon as possible after an early breakfast, being fearful that the company would start early and we be left behind, but they did not decamp. Had we known that they would not, we should not; but should have complied with the pressing request of many and preached in Independence.
Mon. 28.—After seeing the animals packed ready for starting returned to Inde. to attend* to some things which in our hurry we had neglected. Came back and dined at Bro' Ferril's, a local preacher, who kindly gave us corn for our horses and entertained some of us; and then rode on and came into camp at dusk thankful that we were on our way to the farthest West.
Tues. 29.—Started early, accompanied by Bro. Edwards,[2] to find Bro. T. Johnson at the Shawnee Mission, about 7 miles from camp, but not knowing that course traveled twice that distance, but was much pleased to find Sister Johnson surrounded with Shawnee sisters engaged in quilting. Stayed over night; tried to purchase a horse from the Indians but could not agree on the price.
Wednes. 30.—Bought of Bro. Johnson a cow for beef. Started accompanied Bro. J. for the camp. After reaching the prairie Bro. Johnson Re'd from me for the Mis. Soc. $150.00.
Came into camp before night and was rejoiced for we feared we should be obliged to camp by ourselves.
Last evening the company encountered a terrible hail storm, but we had only a shower at the Mission.
Thurs. May 1.—A little before we encamped, saw a few families of Caw [Kaw] Indians, they are a band broken off from the Osage. No sooner had we encamped than they came from their village of bark huts and thronged around us to our annoyance.
They are a miserable looking set of beings—half-naked—the children some of them entirely so. Bro. Shepard[3] remarked that he never before felt half so much like trying to benefit the Indians.
Two females came with two naked children under their blankets and made signs that they were hungry and the children too.
Multitudes of nearly famishing [dogs] belonging to the Indians were prowling about camp all night.
Friday 2. Did not decamp. Some of our com. visited the Indian camp. I had a desire to go but had so much to do writing letters &c., that I could not. They said that the Is. [Indians] had plenty to eat but they had rather beg than eat their own.
Sat. 3. Struck tent came ahead of the Com. and found a number of wigwams on the bank of the Kansas. They are Caws came here to visit the agent General Clark (cousin to Gen. Clark who went to the Columbia with Lewis).
The company soon came up and immediately set about crossing the baggage in a flatboat. I crossed with ours the first load.
The Indians thronged around us and we were obliged to watch diligently to prevent them from pilfering little things.
Sat down to finish some letters to send back by the waggoner who had accompanied us from Independence.
Swam the horses all safe but the horned cattle were very troublesome and when drove in would swim back. Our beef cow swam far down the river and went ashore below the men and ran into the woods a man followed her but lost her in the bushes. Four or five went in pursuit of her but could not find her.
Sun. 4.—Rained a little in the morning. No regard paid by any of Capt. W's company to the Sabbath and but little in appearance by ours for we were obliged as we judged to do things which we should not have done under other circumstances. We engaged the Indians to look for our cow and looked ourselves but in vain. She either returned to the mission or the Indians made sure of her we think, for they are in a state of starvation we are told having been frightened away by the Cholera and their corn rotted last year.
Monday 5.—Exchanged a little cow and calf with a Half Breed for a beef cow. Left some letters [with] General Clark's son to be sent the first chance to the Post Office which is perhaps 30 mi. Related to him the circumstances of the lost cow and requested if found to communicate to F. Johnson and request him to take her and account to the Mission So. for her; he promised to do all he could but thought it probable that the Indians had eaten her.
Started early before breakfast from the agency and traveled till 12 o'clock and then took breakfast.
It is called 75 mi. from the agency to Independence.
Two Indians turned in a yoke of oxen with ours and assisted in driving. Others followed and are cooking their dinner a little distance from us they come and sit down and watch us while cooking as if they had a great desire to be partakers with us but we dare not give them our food lest we should not have enough to last till we reach the buffalo.
Saw one beating something with a stick went to him and he had killed a rattlesnake.
Tues. 6.—Stopped to dine and bait our animals a little distance from the Caw Village. Here the Indians remained with their oxen.
Many came from the Village to trade and it was with great difficulty that we could prevent their dogs from devouring our bacon. Just as we were ready to remove it commenced raining but we proceeded and the rain soon ceased the sun shone and dried us.
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Wedn. 7. Came safe to camp on the little Vermillion which is what I should call a large brook.
Thurs. 8. Milton Sublet [Sublette] returned this morning on account of lameness which detained us till 10 o'clock. Wrote a few words to D. Patten Middleton. Was very sorry to have him leave us for he is a clever man and far better acquainted with the route and with Indians' character and customs than any man in company.
Are now on a stream about as large as the little Vermillion and I think is called black Vermillion.
Friday 9. Encamped on a brook in a beautiful place. Here the first deer was killed.
Sat. 10. Got out of the trail, dined on the Big Vermillion went back about a mile crossed came about 4 m. and camped on the Prairie.
Sun. 11. Decamped early this morning but lost the trail came to a stop about 11 o'clock. Capt. Thing took an obser- vation and found we were 40 18' N. Lat. This has been spent in a manner not at all congenial with my wishes.
Traveling, labouring to take care of the animals by all and cursing and shooting &c by the Com.
Read some of the Psalms and thought truly my feelings in some measure accorded with David's when he longed so much for the House of God.
I have found very little time for reading, writing or medi- tation since reached Liberty for I was almost momentarily employed in making preparations previous to leaving the civ- ilized world and we now find constant employment from daylight till it is time to decamp and then I am engaged in driving cows till we camp, to pitch our tent and make all necessary arrangements for the night fills up the residue of the day.
But still we find a few moments to call our little family together and commend ourselves to God.
May. Mon. 12. This morning the Capt. commenced mending hobbles and we did not expect to decamp till towards
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night. While I was writing in my Journal the word came that two cows were gone one of them ours. Bro. Edwards and myself caught our horses to hunt them and started in haste on our back track judging that our cow had returned where we killed her calf yesterday distant I suppose about 10 m. all undulating or open Prairie except a few trees and shrubs on a little creek. It was with some difficulty that we could keep the trail as there was no mark except what was made by our party. When we arrived near where the calf was killed we saw the cows about two miles ahead and urging their way onward, we took a direct course and pro- ceded with all speed until we came up with them and began our return at 11 o'clock. We left camp in a great hurry without compass telescope or food. When we began to con- sider on it we thought it probable that the Capt. would leave by 12 o'clock and felt anxious to return as speedily as pos- sible. We were on no trace we started but thought we should strike it soon. We did not travel far before we struck a trail which we took for granted was ours and followed it.
Having proceeded far enough to reach a certain creek we crossed and not finding it caused me to believe what I had before feared: that we were following Wm. Subletted trail who we were sure was not far behind us.
The different portions of the prairie so much resemble each other that it is impossible for those who [are] not acquainted with them not to be deceived by them.
Though we became convinced that we were on Sublette's trail yet we thought we had better proceed as we should be likely to find him before dark. Saw eight elk ^ a m. distant which were the first we saw. Soon after we left camp the company having found Sublette's trail 2 m. off decamped. We saw two [men] at a distance pursuing us. As we were in the Pawnee country we thought it probable that they were Indians. As they could overtake us in a short time any way we concluded to wait their arrival and in the meantime milk the cow for dinner. While we were thus engaged we saw
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three others from a little different direction approaching and we now began to think sure enough that they were Pawnees. We finished our milk in [time] to mount and pursue our course before they were near enough to discern whether they were red or white. We resolved we would not run but move on as usual and we soon saw they were of our own party pursuing us to [find] out who we were. Here we see clearly the hand of Providence in bringing us in a way that we knew not of for the Com. was but a mile or two in our [rear] and their march was so crooked that they thought it would have been nearly impossible for us to have followed them if we had returned where we left them.
How mysterious are the ways of Providence and how thankful ought we to be for all His mercies. O, Lord God, write laws of gratitude on our hearts and may we love Thee with our whole souls. Amen and Amen.
Tuesday 13. Last night did not stake the horses. About 1 o'clock they took fright and nearly all ran with all speed with their hobbles on. The guard and others pursued them and soon came back with two-thirds of them but ours were nearly all gone still. I went out about a m. and a half found 9 of the Capt's. The others were all found four in. from Camp in the morning except two of the Captain's.
Three of the Otto [Otoe] Indians came into camp this morning were very friendly but we strongly suspect that they stole the horses that were lost.
Wednesday, May 14. Encamped on a branch of the Blue a large Brook clear good water.
Capt. Thing took a lunar observation and found we were 97 7' West from Greenwich London.
We decamp about j/2 past 7 o'clock stop about 2 hours at noon and camp about y 2 past 6. Make nearly 50 m. per day which is as much as the horses can endure for they are heavily loaded and the grass for two or three days has been poor.
Thurs. 15. Encamped on the Blue. Mr. Walker 1 caught
i Courtney M. Walker.
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two cat fish which were very palatible as we had plenty of bacon to cook them. Saw a number of antelope the hunters killed two.
Frid. 16. Came about 20 m. to day. Saw an Indian trail about a week old where a large party had passed. Crossed the Pawnee trail just before we camped it is worn by travel so that it appears like a wagon road. They had just passed and I perc[e]ive our camp is arranged with more care than usual.
Sat. May 17, 1834. Started this morning at 7 o'clock. Made a severe march of 9 hours from the Blue to the Platte. Left the main Blue on the left hand, crossed a small branch or brook and having left the trail on the right we came by compass N. W. till we found the trail of Mr. Wm. Sublet after marching say 15 m. We then took nearly a W. course soon found the old waggon trail saw some small sand Hills a mile distant and as we approached them saw the timber on the banks of Platte. Came a few m. up and encamped the first place where we could find good grass and wood. Mr. Walker caught a cat fish. We came to day 15 m. N. W. and 10 m. W. Total 25 m.
Sun. May 18. J^ past 7 O-c. A. M. The rain has been falling gently since about midnight which is the [first] we have had since the 6th except occasionally [a] few drops though we have been traveling over what is considered a rainy country.
This seems more like Sabbath than any we have passed since we left the settlements. The rain prevents the men from being out hallooing cursing and shooting. Can it be that such men believe that the day will come when the Omnipotent Jehovah "will judge all men in righteousness by that Man whom He hath ordained whereof He hath given assurance unto all men, in that He hath raised him from the dead?" I have no dought that many are complete Infidels who have taken but very little thought on the subject. They know that if future rewards and punishments await mankind that the
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scenes which await them as individuals unless their char- acters are changed (of which they see little prospect) are appalling indeed and ardently and vehemently desiring that it may not be so they by the assistance of Satan easily persuade themselves that a compassionate God will make some more merciful disposition of man than to punish him forever though he may have done wrong and they soon persuade themselves that Christianity can not be true according to that system apparently few will be saved. However I have no dought that and the Holy Ghost lift up their voices leave the sinner but little firmness in his belief till the one is seared and the other grieved.
While writing the above orders were given to prepare for marching.
We packed in the rain and marched 5 hours and encamped in a small spot of wood plenty of grass for the animals.
Mon. 19. Started at ^ past 7 o'clock A. M. After march- ing a few miles saw two men horseback some miles distant approaching us. W 7 hen they arrived near enough to survey our Company they halted and the Capt. and others went out and spoke to them.
They were two Pawnees and made signs that their party was just behind us and would overtake us tomorrow but they will not if we can avoid it for the Capt. intends to make a forced march to keep ahead of them. W^e are on the bank of the Platte waiting about an hour to bait the horses and get a bite of dinner. The Pawnees are generally counted a treacherous tribe and the traders fear such more than those who are decidedly hostile because when they pretend friend- ship they only wait an opportunity to betray.
Tues., May 20. Marched about 26 m. yesterday and as many to day. Saw a band of Elk this afternoon and the Capt. started full speed on horseback after them but his horse was not fleet enough to come up with them but they ran so near the Com. that they frightened the loose horses and they took their back track and ran as fast as they could and the
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Capt. and others after them all have returned but the Capt. and one other saw buffalo on the opposite side of this river say 200.
Wednes. 21. The Capt. returned about 11 o'clock last evening with all the horses but two which he lost not being able to run them down having followed them about 25 m. and tired those they rode.
Traveled say 26 m. to day. The Indians have not over- taken us and we are confident they cannot with their Families and they take them along when they go to [the] Buff aloe [country]. Saw at least thousands of Buffaloe to day some were killed by the men they are very good if fat. I think pref- erable to beef. The bottom lands along the river are literally black with them for miles. We killed our cow this morning before we saw the Buffaloe and paid the Capt. what we owed him and let him have all except what we wanted ourselves.
May 20. Some Pawnees Loup Indians came to camp. Their camp is a day and a half march on the opposite side.
Wednes. 21. Traveled about 20 m. and encamped as usual on the bank of the Platte. There were several buff aloe kil[l]ed to day by the hunters and others.
Thursday 22. Were obliged to throw away good fat beef because it would not keep sweet any longer but we [have] plenty of buffalo. There are some Free trappers as they are called with us but we have agreed to do our part [of the] hunting and each mess share the spoil equally.
Fri. 23. Went out with the hunters this morning to learn to kill buffaloe. They intended to kill one for breakfast but it being cold and windy they had retreated to the hills some 3 or 4 m. and thither we followed them and with a great deal of labour we succeeded in killing 3 and wounded as many more.
We became thirsty not having tasted food or water during the day and the hunters soon supplied themselves and invited [us] to partake with them of what they called cider but I choose not to participate in their beverage. It consisted of
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water drawn from the paunch of the buffaloe by taping but it was too thick with the excrement to please my fancy though they affirmed with oaths that it was very good. Only a small part of the buffaloe is considered good for food. When they fleece it as they term it they cut the skin on the back and skin down the sides far enough to turn out the shoulder and then take the flesh off the ribs which with the tongue, the heart, the marrow bones and the hump ribs is all they use when meat is plenty. Arrived in camp just before sunset.
Sat. 24. This morning forded the south fork of the Platte without accident except one man lost his gun. We have marched six days on the Platte. It is say a mile wide very shallow swift current and very turbid indeed so that when the wind blows it has the appearance of sand it is almost thick with sand if you leave it a short time in a vessel the bottom will be covered with it. Its bed is sand and very soft. The country along the shores is as beautiful as I ever saw. The bottom land is say from 3 to 5 m. wide skirted with sand hills of all heights up to 50 or 60 or 100 ft. Crossed the hills and in a few hours reached the North Fork of the Platte. Saw no buffaloe to day.
Sun. 25, May. Passed a most picturesque country A. M. High Bluffs and deep ravines some of which it was difficult to pass with loaded [animals] . Saw a natural bridge across a ravine but had not time to examine it. A fine spring of water bursting from the hills was now [a] pleasant sight for they are few and far between. While I was journeying along my mind reverted to the past privileges I have enjoyed in the Sanctuary of God and could truly say that I longed exceed- ingly for the house of God but instead of listening to the word of life flowing from the lips of the Heralds of Salvation I am doomed to labour on and hear little but cursing and shooting &c.
Very few of the company know when the Sabbath rolls around except reminded of it. I feel a lack in my own mind, a want [of] a closer walk with him whom my soul loveth, a
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more free and constant communion with the Author of all happiness. O, Lord my God make me spiritually minded which is life and peace.
Mon. 26. Came about 25 ms. today. Saw no buffaloe and the Capt. was obliged to kill a steer for food. The land on this Fork is very different from that on the other, consisting mostly of sand capable of producing a little grass, some weeds, &c, but unfit for cultivation.
Tues. 27. For a warm dry day never did I travel in such a disagreeable one. The wind was so strong that it was with great difficulty that I could make headway when on foot, and it was of course very severe on the horses.
The bottom of the vessels which contained our dinner was covered with sand and those who eat most dinner eat most sand, and it was driven with such force that it made the face tingle, and in such quantities that it had the appearance of snow driven before the wind at a distance. We have no wood and are obliged to substitute buffaloe dung which makes a very good fire but does not last long and has a disagreeable smell.
Wednes. 28, May 1834. It being my guard I was called at 2 o'clock this morning and am persuaded that it was the coldest morning I have seen since we left the settlements. Daniel 1 went out with the hunters and brought in a load of buffaloe meat which was very acceptable to the Company for some of them have had a rather scanty portion for a day or so, but we have had a plenty though we take our share with the others and do our part of hunting but we have the milk of two cows and a little corn and flour which helps us much. The hunters came in with plenty of meat. Saw some bands of wild horses, but did not get near. The hunters shot a wild horse with the intention of bringing it in for food but finding buffaloe they abandoned it.
One of the Indians while out hunting saw six Indians with horses two with guns and four with bows and arrows, prob-
i Daniel Lee, a cousin of Jason Lee.
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ably Pawnees. We are encamped opposite a large rock which has the appearance at a distance of an old castle. From the looks of it not considering the deception of the level prairie and the size I should think it half a m. distant but Professor Nutall [Nuttall] has been out and says it is at least 5 m. The Thermometer stands at 202 in boiling water.
Thurs. 29 Have seen plenty of buffaloe to-day but the hunters did not go out having food enough in camp. It is now 12 o'clock and we are preparing dinner nearly opposite what is called the Chimney 1 and about 2 m. distant Lat. 41 51' North.
It was cold this morning so that it produced a hard frost but is very warm now. There is more difference in tempera- ture of day and night here I think than in New England gen- erally. We have made 5^ days march from the ford of the South Branch of the Chimney.
The Chimney is very appropriately named. The appear- ance of it at a distance is similar to that of a chimney where the house has been burnt but on a nearer approach you dis- cover that it is a huge mass of a conical form about half its height and runs up precisely like a chimney to the top [its height] say 150 or 200 feet. Curiosity prompted me to go and examine it but pity to my horse prevented.
Fri. May 30, 1834. This day passed Scott's Bluff which received its [name] from this circumstance
A Mr. Scott superintendent of General Ashley's fur Com- pany, was taken delirious in the Black Hills but at lucid inter- vals expressed a great desire to go home to die and the[y] thought it best to make a boat of skins and send him down the Platte some distance by water where the Com. if they arrived first were to await their arrival. Two men were sent with him but they were upset in rapids and narrowly escaped being drowned and lost their guns and everything but one knife and a horn of powder. The leader of the Com. did not stop for them and it was with the greatest difficulty that the
i Chimney Rock.
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men could find enough to subsist on until they overtook the Com. Their report was that he died and they buried him but his bones and blanket were found a 100 mi. from the place they said he had died and near the Bluff. As we approached the Bluff we passed a ravine in some places say 60 feet and of various depth formed in the level plain wholly by the action of water. The Bluffs have a most beautiful appearance being diverse in their height and size. One resembles the cupola of a church. One near which we passed rises say 200 feet nearly perpendicular and consists of different strata of hard clay and rock. A few scattering red cedars decorated the sides of the stupendous hills. Some of us passed some very deep ravines but the company turning short to the right as soon as they passed the notch avoided them.
Sat. 31. Passed some barren sand hills and traveled over some good bottom lands. The sight of green trees on the river bank was truly delightful. For some days we have been able to find driftwood enough to cook with but to be permitted to encamp beside a beautiful grove of timber is truly exhilarating. Seven Buffaloe were killed to-day. Thus the hand of Providence supplies us with daily food and gives health to enjoy it. We dined Lat. 42 10'.
Sunday, June 1, 1834. Started about the usual [time] and arrived at Laramas [Laramie's] Fork and forded it without difficulty before dinner. It receives its name from the circum- stance that a man by that name was killed by the Indians on that Branch. This stream is generally very difficult to cross, it being very rapid. Some of Sublett's men who are building a Trading Fort a little distance came to us they are planting corn. Three of our party Free Trapers left us here with the intention to catch Beaver in the Black Hills and thus they expose themselves their lives yea they run greater risks for a few Beaver skins than we do to save souls and yet some who call themselves Christians "tell it not in Gath" would have persuaded us to abandon our enterprize because of the danger
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which attended it. Often does the following stanzas rush
into my mind :
The sound of the church going bell, These vallies and rocks never heard, Never sighed at the sound of a knell, Or smiled when a Sabbath appeared.'
But blessed be God I rejoice to see the return of a Christian Sabbath though deprived of sanctuary privileges.
On this day ten thousand fervent prayers ascend the throne of grace for Missionary and Mission operations and how can we but rejoice to witness its return. May that time soon come when we shall enjoy the privileges of God's house on the western decline of the Rocky Mountains. I already long to hear from my dear friends in the east but am doomed to wait many long months before I can know anything of what is transpiring among those I love. We have very little pros- pect of doing any good among those with [whom] we jour- ney. Our time while in Camp being almost entirely taken up in taking care of our things horses cooking &c. so that it is with difficulty we find time to write a little in the journal.
Mon. June 2, 1834. We encamped last night near a beauti- ful grove of white ash. We have passed some groves of Cottonwood which is far more prevelent than any other in this part of the Country. We have been climbing the Black Hills which extend some distance South and North to the Missouri and forms the falls of that River. I think they receive their name from their dark appearance occasioned by small pine and cedar scattered over them. They make a very beautiful appearance. Dined on a beautiful little stream of clear water which is the first we have seen for hundreds of miles. Marched late and encamped in a small grove and little grass. Begun to see the snow caped Mountains which to me are a most wel- come sight.
Have been afflicted with a diorhae to-day.
Tues. Ju. 3. Started early this morning and came 15 m. before we could find grass and dined on the bank of the
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Platte. Started down the bank of the River under the Bluff but could not find a pass and were obliged [to] ascend the Hill and make our way for some miles over hills and through ra- vines by far worse than any we have passed before.
Wednes. June 4, 1834. This morning forded the north fork of the Platte with safety scarcely weting a bail which is seldom known to be fordable at this season. Thus kind Provi- dence smooths our way before us. Thus we came two days and a half march on this Fork previous to crossing. Searched diligently in a grove of Cottonwood for a tent pole but could find none to please me except a cedar which had drifted down the river.
Thirsday 5. The wind blew so hard that every tent except ours blew down and it was with the utmost difficulty that we could prevent it from falling but we succeeded and eat our breakfast in it. It was very difficult packing this morning on account of the wind, but we were enabled to make a good days march though it was rather disagre[e]able.
Friday, 6. It commenced raining just as the word was given to catch up the horses and made very disagreeable packing but rained little and soon cleared away and we were favored with a fine day.
Sat. June 7, 1834. Arrived before dinner opposite the red Butes which is the point where we leave the old Platte, having been on its waters 21 days. The land on this Fork is broken and consists of sandy plains and sand hills and rugged moun- tains totally unfit I think for cultivation. A few willows some Buffaloe bushes and some cotton trees a few scrub [b] y pine and cedar are all the timber I have seen.
Mon. June 9. Yesterday decamped soon after sunrise and made one long march and encamped on a little brook where we found good grass but short. Was engaged in driving cattle and they were so weary that it was with great difficulty that we got them along. Business so occupied my time that I only found opportunity to read a little in my Bible but not to write in my Journal. I think that I enjoyed less communion with
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my Heavenly Father than any Sabbath since I left Sabbath and Sanctuary privileges. May the Good Lord quicken me.
Dined at Rock Independence, which stands by itself on a prairie and is say ^4 of a m. in length % 'in breadth 75 ft. high without herbage it being a naked rock of granite. Within a few yards of this rock flows the waters of a small clear stream called Sweet Water.
Found good grass this evening which is a matter of rejoicing and thankfulness for our poor Horses were nearly starved. On either side of the plain which is some miles in diameter curious Mountains rear their stately heads. They are the most barren I ever saw. They are detached ranges of the Rocky M. and if the main range is similar they are most ap- propriately named.
Tues. June 10. Was called last night at 11 o'clock to take charge of my guard it being my middle watch. The wind blew almost a hurricane and it was so cold that it was impos- sible to keep comfortable with a great coat but the wind sub- sided between 12 and 1 o'clock. Though I found some com- munion with God yet I was when 2 o'clock came I relieved from guard. Frost this morning but quite hot at noon. The Capt. sent an express to the Redevous [Rendezvous] this morning. Followed the river part of the way but some times it winds its way through the cragged Mountains. The land here is much the same as it has been for some days past con- sisting chiefly of sand except some spots on the bank of the River. It produces wild sage plentifully some of it is from four to five feet high three or four inches through but is too bitter for tea.
We cooked our dinner with its stocks. We are just at the base of a huge M. of granite.
Wednes. 11. Was constantly engaged in repairing halters fixing the horses shoes &c. until time to pack up. There is more to be done on such an expedition as this [than] any one could possibly think who has never tried it.
The provision is getting short in Camp some have had very
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little to-day and we have eaten our last Buffaloe meat for din- ner except some we have dried in case of emergency. Have been leading the Camp for the Capt. this morning and he has gone ahead to kill meat. When we soped [stopped] here it was calm but now the sand flies so that it is almost impossible to write. I must leave writing to take care that the things do not blow away. Shot an Elk this P. M. which was very ac- ceptable as some had eaten little for two days they said. Elk is not considered good meat except very fat. Through the goodness and mercy of God we have had plenty. O that our gratitude may keep pace with his mercies. Bless the Lord I think I do feel thankful for his goodness to me. Glory to God in the highest he feeds me both with corporeal and with spiritual food. Amen. Inste[a]d of taking a due west course as we should have done we followed the River by consequence lost our A. M. march.
Thirs. June 12. Went out with the hunters this morning. They killed a Buffaloe and caught a young Antelope and a Buffalo calf. Saw plenty Buffaloe to-day and killed a supply.
Friday June 13, 1834. Went with the hunters and while trying to kill a Buffaloe one of our cows & one [of] the Capts that had been left to follow came near us and having lost the Company were steering for the Band of Buffaloe and we should probably have lost them if we had not been behind the Company. Left the Sweet Water this morning [turned] to the left and soon after lost Sublet's trail. After noon went out and brought in a piece of meat to dry and some for the Com- pany. Encamped on a branch of the Sweet Water. The grass is very short and the horses are failing fast. The alcohol was handed out freely by the Capt. which soon made some of the crew quite merry. Some quarreled in the night through the effects of it. Would to God that the time may come soon when its use shall be entirely abandoned except as a medi- cine.
Sat. J. 14, 1934. Took the lead of Camp while the Capt.
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went to see if he could ascertain where he passed when he went out before.
Dined on a spring of as good water as I ever drank. The Buffaloe have eaten nearly all the grass.
Remained behind the Company to assist in butchering a Buffaloe and carrying in meat that I need not have to go out to hunt on the Sabbath, w[h]ich is our day in regular rotation. Was obliged to ride fast to overtake the Com. About 5 m. I think from where we dined we crossed the main Sweet Wa- ter. Rode about 5 m. farther and came up with rear of the Com.
One of our horses tired and though he had carried nothing but his saddle that day we could not get him along and were forced to leave in the Prairie where was but very little grass with very little expectation of seeing him again which we regretted as we knew one would have to walk in consequence until we reached Rendevous. The cattle nearly failed and fell some miles behind.
Night drew on fast and no water nor grass. I could have easily overtaken the foremost part of the Company but chose to remain with Brothers Shepard and D. Lee and Mr. Abot and try to keep the trail after night should come on but it [was] impossible as we were in a country of wild sages which are so large that they impede the progress of the horses and also covered with Buffaloe paths which we sometimes mis- take for the trail even in daylight. Ten o'clock came to a dry creek as they call in this country and finding a little grass we concluded to encamp. We cooked no supper for two rea- sons first because of the labour and time necessary to do it and secondly because we were in the most dangerous part of the Indian country and a light might attract them. We tied our horses milked the cows and drank the milk and lay down to repose feeling safe in the [care of Him] who controlleth all things.
It rained a little but not enough to wet through our blan- kets. Awoke just at daylight after a night's sweet repose
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and found all safe. Soon ascertained that the Com. were not more than a mile and a half distant but thought we would have breakfast before we decamped. Roasted Buffaloe meat and poor water made our rich repast and I am persuaded that none even in New England eat a more palatable or wholesome meal. We feel not want of bread and I am more healthy than I have been for some years. Came to camp and when we learned that 12 o'clock was the hour for starting, Mr. Walker and myself saddled two of [the] ablest horses and went for the one we left and found [him] about six miles distant within 15 rods of where we left him and drove him into camp. Think we shall save him if we reach Rendevous soon.
Sun. 15. Decamped near 1 o'clock and crossed a branch of Sandy River which runs [a] south west course and empties into Green River which discharges its waters into the Colorado and through that into the Gulf of California. Here we are now on the height of Land the dividing ridge between the At- lantic and Pacific. Our rise has been gradual most of the way and we have not ascended any such Mountains as I an- ticipated having passed along on the Prairies at their base.
The Rocky Mountains with their summits and parts of their sides clad in eternal snow presents to the eye of the traveler a most grand beautiful and sublime appearance. It rained a little soon after we started but the sun shone again in a short time. Gave my horse to Mr. Walker and went on foot. He was hindered and I was caught in a shower of rain and snow and hail found it rather cold. Passed some singular moun- tains one resembles a hay stack which we left on our left hand.
Encamped on the Main Sandy. Was that weary when we had arranged our things that I lay down on the grass and slept two hours of the Lord's day. O, how my soul longs for the ordinances of God's house. Shall I ever enjoy them again in that land of privileges which I have left far behind? The Lord only knows and his righteous will (I would say in per- fect submission) be done.
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Mon. June 16, 1834. Followed down Sandy and could find no grass until 2 o'clock and then very poor. Sunday we trav- eled near W. and this P. M. S. E. and I judge we are not more than 10 m. from where we encamped on the night of the 14th. The Capt. has heard nothing from his express nor from Rendevous and hence he is wandering about not knowing whether he is going to or from it. Two hunters went out on the llth and we have heard nothing from them since. What has become of them we cannot tell but think they are lost or the Indians have found them. We are extremely anxious to know their fate but have no means of ascertaining. Was on guard the first watch.
I think this River is rightly named for the Prairies on both sides of it are sand producing only a little sage and a few spires of grass and a few trees and willow bushes occasionally on the bottoms. The horses are failing fast for want of food more than through excess of labour though that is very severe.
Some of the Com. saw two men belonging to American Fur Com. on the 17th.
Tues. June 17, 1834. This day followed down Sandy but find the grass no better. The hunters came in at noon they have been lost and looking in every direction for us. We are encamped on a dry sand plain where there is no grass except a few scattering spires but the opinion is that we are within 10 miles of Rendevous where we shall find plenty. The horses are nearly wore down but the mules stand it well and are in as good flesh as when we started. The Capt. has just started in search of Rendevous. I find myself quite weary and shall be glad of a few days rest but the animals need it far more than the men.
Though we have but little and no bread in fact nothing but Buffaloe meat and a little tea and coffee yet we suffer no in- convenience whatever by not having the variety we were wont to have formerly but I think derive benefit from it. There are many things which men accustom themselves to use which [are] deleterious.
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Wednes. June 18. I o'clock P. M. Though we have come 10 m. yet we have not found Rendevous nor the Capt. Have found a bottom where the grass is a little better. The plains are so dry that the dust rises in clouds where horses pass and makes very disagreeable traveling.
It gives me pleasure to reflect that we are descending towards the vast Pacific. With the blessing and preservation of the Almighty we shall soon stand upon the shores which have resisted the fury of the proud swelling waves of the mighty Pacific from time immemorial. O, Thou God of love give us still thine aid for without thee we can do nothing.
Made a short march and came to a fine bottom of grass. The man who went with the Capt. has returned also the one he sent out on express.
Thrs. Ju. 19. Met the Capt. about 12 o'c. near the Forks of Sandy and Green Rivers. Dined and on the banks of Green R. P. M. crossed and encamped on the shore grass pretty good. Here met an Indian Free Trapper w[h]ich is the first Indian we have seen since we saw the Pawnee Loups before crossing the main Platte.
Friday June 20, 1834. Daniel was very sick last night being in extreme pain and could take no rest or peace until Bro. Shepard bathed his feet in hot water and put hot flannel on his back and bowels. His sickness was occasioned by bathing in cold water I think. He is just able to ride to-day. Started with the hunters ahead of the Comp. and one of them wounded a Buffaloe in the shoulder and after they had run y 2 or 4 of a m. we concluded to give them chase and set off one of them came up before me with the Buffalo but could not get his gun off. I rode within a few yards of the Buf and gave her a deadly shot so that she fell in the spot where she stood. We soon dressed her and loaded most of her on our horses and pursued the Com. which was now some miles ahead. Come up with the Com. near 12 o'clock and continued our march till 4, when we reached a small stream called Ham's Fork
138 JASON LEE
which empties into the Colorado or what is called here for some distance the Green River.
We call this Rendevous or the place where all the Com- panies in the Mountains or in this section of them have fixed upon to meet for the transaction of business.
Some of the companies have not come in, yet most of them are a mile above us on the same creek. They threatened that when we came they would give them Missionaries "hell" and Capt. W. informed us and advised us to be on our guard and give them no offense and if molested to show no symptoms of fear and if difficulty did arise we might depend upon his aid for he never forsook any one who had put himself under his protection.
I replied I was much obliged to him. I feared no man and apprehended no danger from them when sober and when drunk we would endeavor to [keep] out of their way. I judged it best however to go immediately to their camp and get an introduction to them while sober and soon as possible went accompanied by the Capt. Found Wm. Sublett and was warmly received with all that gentlemanly politeness which has always characterized his conduct towards me. Sup[p]ed with him. Was introduced to those who had threatened us and spent some time in conversation with them on the difficulties of the route, changes of habit and various topics and made such a favorable impression on them and was tre[a]ted with such politeness by all that I came away fully satisfied that they would neither molest us themselves nor suffer their men to do so without cause. How easy for the Lord to disconcert the most malicious and deep laid plans of the devil.
Without thy permission O, Lord no weapon formed against thy servants shall prosper in thee will I put my trust and feel safe in thy hands. Some of the men told the Pierced Nose and Flat Head Indians our object in coming into the country and they came and shook hands very cordially and seemed to welcome me to their country.
Sat. Ju. 21. Felt more like laying down and resting than
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writing or work. Have had a visit from some 10 or 12 Pierced Nose and 1 or 2 Flat Heads to-day and conversed a little with them through an indifferent interpreter.
But being buisy arranging our things we requested them to come again when we were more at leisure. A man who has just come from Wallah Wallah gave us some encouraging information. Blessed be God I feel more and more to rejoice I was ever counted worthy to carry the glad news of salvation to the far western world.
Sunday, Ju. 22. Was called this morning at 2 o'clock it being my morning guard but having men enough to guard the horses and finding the atmosphere very cold I sat most of the time in the tent.
Felt very stupid after breakfast. Tried to read my Bible but fell asleep and took a long nap. Soon after I awoke as many Indians as could enter our tent came to see us and we told them our object in coming showed them the Bible told them some of the commandments and how they were given to all of which they listened with the utmost attention and then replied that it was all good. They enquired if we could build houses and said that the Indians at Walla wallah gave horses to a white man to build them a house and when he got the horses he went off and did not build it. We of course expressed our strong disapprobation of his conduct. They said if we could build a house for them they would each plenty of Beaver for us which we take as a favourable indication showing their desire for improvement. One said he was going to St. Louis next year but he would leave his three children with his friends who was present and he would give them to us that we might teach them to read and write and be good.
Some of them shook hands very heartily when thefy] left.
One of the men went to purchase meat of the Indians but they would not bring it to him because it was Sunday. Thus while the whites who have been educated in a Christian land pay no regard whatever to the Sabbath these poor savages who have at most only some vague idea of the Christian relig
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ion respect the Sabbath of the Lord our God. Though we might have a congregation of some hundreds of whites to preach to to-day if they were disposed to hear yet we have no doubt if [we] were to propose such a thing that it would be rejected with disdain and perhaps with abuse, for all hands nearly are employed [in] trading drinking or some such inno- cent amusement. My God My God " there nothing that will have any effect upon them?
Lord of heaven and earth move by thy Spirit upon their hearts and cause the penitential tear to flow.
Mon. June 23. Bro. Shepard washed for us which is the first of any account that we have had done since we left and I have clean clothes yet. Went to Mr. Sublett's Camp to see about purchasing a mule of Mr. Trapp [Frappe]. Heard the Indians in one lodge praying and singing went to listen to them but they were just closing as we approached. How encouraging to see these red men thus religiously inclined. Soon after dark a fire was built in the Prairie for the purpose of a war dance. One with a thing that answered for a drum stood near the fire and sung with others. While the three half-breeds who were all that joined in the war dance were making preparations the whites made themselves perfectly ridiculous by jumping about the fire trying to imitate the In- dian dance while none but the little boys would join them. At length they came and went through their dance which was rather interesting especially that part where they killed and scalped one and went off with the gun in triumph.
Slept with Mr. Sublette and returned in the morning.
June 24, Tues. Purchased some things of the Indians and a mule of Mr. Frapp. Paid in red cloth at 100 per cent $55.00. Found that our red cloth was minus 12 yds.
Wednes. June 25. Removed 10 mi. up the creek and after taking care of the things commenced writing letters in good earnest, but found it very hard to bring my mind to the work.
Thursday 26. Made some repairs on saddles &c, and wrote some letters.
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Fri. June 27. Copied a long communication for the Advo- cate. Found peace in believing.
Sat. June 28. 31 years of my almost useless life are like a fable gone. Once I sincerely wished that I had never seen the light but bless the Lord it is otherwise with me now and I thank God that I was ever born of the flesh that I might be born of the spirit. It is hardly probible that I shall see 31 years more but be that as it may I trust that the residue of my days will be spent more to the glory of God and the good of the world than those that have already passed. O my God help me to redeem time. It seems that I am doing nothing and under existing circumstances can do nothing for- thee; Lord open a door for usefulness and give me a heart to labour to promote thy glory and the ultimate salvation of my fellow creatures.
Sunday, June 29.- This day seems more like Sabbath than any since I left St. Louis, and though far from God's visible Temple and the soul cheering and spirit exhilarating ordi- nances of his house yet he whose presence fills the temple and gives it all its charms and all its attractions is here and "He makes our paradise. And where he is is heaven."
Mon. June 30, 1834. Laboured hard making halters of Buffalo hide and though it was my first attempt yet I suc- ceeded in making two I think preferable to any that I have seen. Finished some of my letters. While writing past scenes came fresh to my recollection and cases [causes] me to wish to hear from my friends.
Tues. July 1, 1834. This day sealed a long communication to the Editors of the Advocate one to Dr. Fisk one to Dr. Bangs one to Bro. Tabor and one to Sister Achash (?) and carried them down to Wm. Subletted Camp and he kindly took charge of them. May they safely reach those for whom they are designed. Took my leave of Mr. Sublette and Mr. Fitzpatrick & Christie and they all wished me success express- ing a hope that we might [meet] again in this country. But
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in what they wished me success I know not as some of [them] at least are opposed to our enterprise.
Wednes. July 2, 1834. Arose this morning at 2 o'clock it being my guard and after placing the guard lighted a can- dle and wrote a letter to Bro. Finley and one to Br. Sehon ( ?) and sent them by Mr. Greenow.
Left Rendevous rather late being detained on account of some horses that had run away. Had been quite long enough in Camp and glad to pursue out journey. A band of Indians No. Pierce and Flat Heads came with and camped with us on Ham's Fork. They are on their way to the Flat Head
camp.
- * * *
Friday, July 4, 1834. Just as we were on the point of start- ing the Indians came and informed us that they were about to leave us and wished to know if we intended to come back and stop with the Flat Head Camp. We told them we could not say positively now we did not know as we could find their Camp.
I asked them if they would like to have their children learn to read &c one said he would give me his. Some said they would like [to] learn to cultivate land.
And they seemed desirous that we should locate among them. I told them if they came where Capt. Wyeth purposed to build up [a] Fort that if it were not too far I would go and see the Chief and talk with him about it and if we did not come this winter that we would come next or the following.
When we arrived at the place of separation they all shook hands with me in the most cordial hearty and friendly man- ner.
I was very much affected with this parting scene. Lord direct us in our choice of a location. O that these sons of nature may soon be the children of grace. Encamped on Mud- dy Creek. Some of the men caught some fine trout. This being the 4th of July the men must needs show their "Inde- pendance" and such another drunken crazy hooting quarrel
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ing fighting frolic I seldom witnessed. Yes, even in this western world ardent spirits is the bane of poor infatuated men. Here met Mr. Bonivill's 1 company on their way to St. Louis.
Sat. July 5, 1834. Passed along the base of some very high Mountains, say 300 ft. high of a red hue. Crossed over to Bear River and came down it a few miles and camped. Lost two cruppers off of one mule.
Sun. July 6. Had neglected writing for a day or two and had forgotten the day of the week.
Commenced making cruppers early and finished one before starting though we took a early start. It was not til we had traveled some miles that I found out that it was Sabbath and I could scarce make it seem like Sabbath all day.
Made a very long severe march crossed Bear River twice and came over some of the most mountainous country that we have crossed though not so difficult as some the ascent and descent being more gradual but they were some of them miles from the base to the summit and some places quite steep and thus they were ascending and descending for say 4 or 5 hours 'til we reach the bottom of Bear River where we camped.
Mon. July 7, 1834. Started late from camp. Had difficulty in finding the cows which detained us til the company were two miles out. Came 4 mi. and overtook the comp. and dis- covered we had left one of our horses and were obliged to go back to Camp for him.
Made a short march and camped on Bear R.
Tuesday July 8. Came along the banks of B. R. saw more beautiful little streams of clear water winding through the hills or more properly Mountains and emptying their waters into the River.
Buffaloe has been scarce and it has been difficult to procure enough for food for the Company though we have always had enough. The Capt. went to see Mr. Bonivill's camp but re- turned before night.
i Col. B. L. E. Bonnrille.
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Some miles before we came into [ ] began to observe
volcanic appearances and soon discovered what I was satis- fied was lava. Saw what [is] called here white clay but I think it is soft chalk.
There seems to be a large bed of it very white but could form no idea of the quantity.
Wednes. July 9, 1834. Did not move camp was employed most of the day in repairing pack-saddles &c. A few yards from our camp is a curious spring called the Soda Spring. There are several places where it boils up within a few rods and though large quantities are thrown up it does not run off upon the surface but finds its way to the river underground where you can see it bubbling up in various places. The boil- ing in one place resembles very much the rapid boiling of water in a large chaldron the agitation being fully as great.
The water is evidently impregnated with gas it has and acid taste is rather pleasant and resembles very much the soda made from powders. There is another half a mile distant still more curious and astonishing. It [is] so warm that the ther- mometer stands at 90 in it. From an aperture in the rock or incrustation formed by the precipitation of particles from the water a large quantity is thrown several feet below into the River. It alternately spurts for a few seconds with consider- able noise and flows more gently for the same length of time. A few feet distant is a hole of an inch in diameter where the atmosphere strongly impregnated with sulphur issues in a manner that strongly resembles respiration and with such force as to be heard several rods and is quite warm. A man on whom I can depend who visited the spring before I did said when the hole was stopped there was a cracking under- neath resembling the report of a gun. The pressure was so great that I think I did not succeed in entirely preventing the escape of the air though I put a wet tuft of grass upon it and forced it in with my foot, but observed while the grass was closely pressed into the hole that the waters spurted with more
DIARY 145
force and more constancy and when my foot was removed the grass was instantly raised.
These waters have evidently flowed out in many different places where large quantities of very curious rock has been formed by its precepitations upon moss grass &c. One place I noticed very particularly. The rock at the base is several yards in diameter and rises in a circular form to the height of say 5 ft. and is about that distance across the top the incrusta- tion is a few inches thick at the top and the hollow is filled nearly up with earth. I have no doubt and am persuaded that no person who visits it can have doubt but that water once boiled from this chaldron but has long since found some other place for discharging itself.
Thirs. July 10. Left Bear R. and pursued a north course over the hills and soon reached a small prairie, crossed some small streams or brooks. Passed Boniville's Camp. He is making meat. The country presents many volcanic appear- ances all the stone appear to have been burned. The Company killed a large griz[z]ly bear. I think there were twenty guns fired but know not how many balls hit him. They are a very hard creature to kill.
Fri. July 11, 1834. Encamped last night on a small stream called Black Foot. The [stream] is very muddy and difficult to cross. Capt. McCay [Thos. McKay] formerly of the Hud- son's Bay Company joined us on the 9th and intends to go with us to the place where the Capt. is to build his fort and there wait for his party. Saw a large band of buf. and rode up to them full speed but the dust flew in such clouds that I could not see to shoot with any accuracy and hence killed noth- ing but pursued and overtook three bulls one of which Cool- cooly shot and we took part of it to camp.
Sat. 12. Encamped on the headwaters of Ross Fork. Dan- iel caught a fine string of trout.
Sun. 13. Traveled only a short distance. Was glad to get a little rest on the Lord's day. The [men] are engaged playing cards drinking swearing wrestling &c. May God have mercy upon them.
Mon. July 14.—Forded some bad creeks and camped about noon on the bank of Snake River as it called by the Mountain men but on the maps Lewis Fork.
The Capt. is gone to search for a Fort.
Tues. 14.—Started from the picket and came 4 or 5 m. and camped where the Capt. is going to build a Fort. Made an attempt for the first time to set horse shoes and I think succeeded very well but for want of propper tools found it a slow job. We are glad of a little rest on account of the animals.
Wednes. 16.—Sent out 12 hunters and Walker was among them with orders to remain out 12 days if they did not get their 12 spare animals they took out loaded sooner. The object is to procure meat to last down the Columbia. The men are engaged in building a horse pen. The Capt. thinks he shall be here a fortnight. It will seem long to me.