Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 26/Extracts from the Emmons Journal

by George Foster Emmons

EXTRACTS FROM THE EMMONS JOURNAL

Extracts from the Journal of Lieut. George Foster Emmons, U. S. Navy, attached to the U. S. Exploring Expedition,^[1] who after the wreck of the sloop-of-war Peacock at the mouth of the Columbia river,^[2] took charge of a party of scientists of the expedition, and others, and made his way overland through a comparatively unexplored country to San Francisco Bay, rejoining his squadron.

The following pages are descriptive of Fort Vancouver where the party outfitted and of the courtesy and kindly offices of Mr. Douglas (afterward Sir James Douglas) and Dr. John McLoughlin, Chief Factors of the Hudson's Bay Company in charge of that Post.

George Thornton Emmons,
Lieut. U. S. Navy, Ret.

February, 1925.

July 25, 1841—

About 3 P. M . boarded the American Brig "Thos. Perkins",^[3] Capt. Varney, at anchor in the river abreast of Vancouver, for the purpose of ablution & changing our clothes prior to paying our respects to the H's. B . Co* Officials at the Fort. At the same time made arrangements with Capt. V. to receive and mess my men on board of his brig. As soon as church service was concluded visited the Fort where we were received by Dr. McLaughlin and Mr. Douglas (both Chief Factors of the Co.), and comfortably quartered in a large wooden building within the picketed enclosure. Upon making the object of my visit known to Dr. McLaughlin, I received an assurance from him that he would afford me every facility within his power to forward my plans. This being one of the most important stations of the Co., I will now add a few facts in connection with a Diagram^[4] which will convey some idea of its plan & importance, although I do not vouch for its being correct in every particular.

SKETCH OF FORT VANCOUVER ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER, JULY, 1841, BY LIEUT. GEO . F. EMMONS, U. S. N., OF U. S. EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

LEGEND

 1. Commander's residence—Dr. McLaughlin and Mr. Douglas.
 2. Commander's kitchen and servants' quarters.
 3. Chaplain or Governor's temporary residence.
 4. Clerk's Office—meteorological obj. made, etc.
 6. Chapel for Catholic and Episcopal services.
 7. Bakery—where soft bread and tea biscuit are baked.
 8. Wash room, etc.
 9. Quarters for subordinate officers and their families.
10. Blacksmith shop—four furnaces.
11. Store house (Called Missionary Store, having been used by the American Missionaries to store their property.)
12. Carpenter's shop.
13. Indian trade store, hospital, dispensary, etc. 14.Building for furs.
15. Magazine—the only brick building.
16. General store house, provisions, dry goods, hardware, etc.
17. General store house, provisions, dry goods, hardware, etc.
18. General store house, provisions, dry goods, hardware, etc.
19. Granary.
20. Two large field pieces mounted on carriages—the latter defective.
21. Bell stand or belfry.
22. A deep well in which the water rises and falls with the tide.
23, 23, 23. Entrances through folding gates.

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The whole enclosure about 700 feet by 400, the posts forming the stockade being of pine, from 8 to 10 inches in diameter and about 20 ft long, 2 or 3 feet of which is buried in the earth to support the upright & as additional support pieces of scantlings are pinned together on either side near the top and bottom, running the whole length, and from the upper row of these an occasional brace led to the ground forming a lateral support like

Nearly all the posts are more or less decayed at the surface of the earth, and will soon require replacing by others.

Independent of this there is a Hospital near the river bank, also stockaded, a Coopers shop, Boat House and several other out buiildings about the premises, besides a small village of about 30 buildings occupied by the servants of the Co. and their families. All of these buildings are wood, generally hewn logs, like the universal log House of Canada. There is also a spacious garden just back of the stockade, which now produces a large variety of vegetables, Apples, Pears, Gooseberries, Strawberries, currents &c.

July 26, 1841.

Weather warm & sultry, during the day a light air from the West^d. Obtained equal altitude sights to regulate a pocket chronometer that had been saved from the wreck and was furnished me without a rate. Mr. Douglas kindly took me about the Fort to show me the interior of the different buildings and residences of the Co. Found quite a large variety and quantity of stores and furs on hand, much order and system in the general arrangement, and the strictest attention and obedience observed by the subordinents to the directions of their superior.

Clear at night got obts' of the N star for Lat. Mr. Drayton^[5] arrived from Walla Walla. A rumor reached the Fort that a Party under Capt Walker^[6] (an old mountainer mentioned by Washington Irving in Capt Bonneville's work) had been cut off by the Indians and all massacried some where near Fort Hall. July 27, 1841. Weather much the same, generally cloudy in the mornings clearing up by meri and remaining clear during most of the night. Very busy in collecting together the necessary articles to equip the Party, the Co. being unable to furnish enough pack saddles & Parfleshs. Dispatched Mr. Rodgers^[7] to the Qualatin settlement to endeavor to engage the necessary number & at the same time to make definite arrangements with the residents there, who had already volunteered to accompany our party, to be ready at such a time to meet me at the disembarking place of the Walamat, bringing with them their animals. Mr. Drayton was to have accompanied Mr. R ., but found the canoe too small. Dispatched Mr. Burnie's^[8] canoe back to Fort Geo with a letter to Capt Hudson,^[9] and towards sunset Capt Wilkes' canoe left under charge of his servant, accompanied by a batteau furnished by Dr McLaughlin, to convey articles purchased for the "Peacock's" officers and crew, to Astoria, owing to the recommendation of the Co* Officers. Purchassed dressed deer skins and had them smoked previous to being made into trousers and moccasins for each of the party, these being considered quite necessary to resist the scratches that one is subject to in travelling much in mountainous portions of this country. One of my men is sick, the remainder running balls, making provision bags &c. Scientific gentlemen variously occupied. Dr McL—— thinking to make me more comfortable insisted upon my vacating a small room in No. 9 & taking No. 3 where he frequently called to see if his servants had attended to all my wants agreeable to his instructions—this they were sure to do, for his power is despotic here, and all have learned to obey, and possessing as I believe he has, a good heart & general knowledge of the world & mankind, enables him to anticipate nearly all our wants, which are none the less for having lately been shipwrecked. Obs equal alts of the sun & at night got an alt. of Polaris.

July 28, 1841. No material change in wind or weather, heat rather oppressive during the day, the thermometer standing at 86° in the shade at sunset. Dr McL— furnished me an apparatus for determining the heights of mountains by boiling water, such as has lately been used by the Co's officers in crossing the Rocky Mountains, principally on account of its portableness— by several experiments made the boiling points at Vancouver 213 25/100°, but not knowing its gage at the level of the sea am unable at present to estimate the alt. of the Fort above the latter upon such data. Men employed working at suits, bags, tapolins and fitting axe helves. Capt Varney lost a man by desertion. The Co. do not countenance men who leave vessels under such circumstances and will lend their aid in detecting them. Accompanied Dr McL— to their mills about six miles up the river on the N bank, both situated directly on the bank on beautiful never failing streams of water which spring from the earth near by, so near that soon after leaving the mills drank from the source of one. Both the flour mill and the saw mill are carried by overshot wheels, the former has one set of stone, which more than answers all the present demands of the Co. The latter runs 9 saws, & I think Dr McL told me, turned out 2500 feet of lumber daily, employing from 25 to 30 men, and about 12 yoke of oxen. Most all of these men I observed were Sandwich Islanders, their ration consists principally of smoked salmon — sea biccuit, and the pay of each 17 pounds per an. Thus the Co. is selecting the choice timber from our forests and supplying the Sandwich Island & California market their vessels coming up the river and loading at the mill. About % mile back from this shore is an open high prairie where one of their shepherds resides and looks out for a large flock of sheep & a few cattle.

29 & 30 July, 1841.

Weather much the same. Ther' 88° in the shade. Not well. The H. B. Cos sloop Victoria arrived from Fort Geo bringing an addition to our party of Corporal Hughes, private Marsh & Smith and 6 barrels of pork for the use of our party, only had occasion for 1% barrels, stored the remainder. Heard the Vincennes would be off the Bar by the 1st of Aug. Obtained a Bowditch from Capt Varney. Mr. Smith^[10] & wife attached to the American B. C. F. mission, who for some time had been staying here, removed on board the Thos. Perkins to take passage in her to the Sandwich Islands. Afterwards learned that during the last 8 years, American missionaries had frequently stopped here for weeks & months with their wives partaking of the Company's hospitality and attended by the Company's servants gratis. During the day measured the alt. of the high prairie land back of the fort and about 14 mile from the River upon which old Fort Vancouver^[11] formerly stood originally selected on account of its commanding position, at a time when the surrounding Indians were hostile, but vacated when the latter became friendly and no longer required watching for the present location which possesses superior advantages on account of its nearer approximation to the River which is the great thoroughfare of the country. Found it 61 feet above the low bottom immediately skirting the River & the latter about 15 feet above the river water when at a low stage. Upon this first bottom stands a small lake well stored with fish. Much of it however is subject to inundation, when the Cos. crops are liable to suffer, that portion of it laying in a line with Mt Hood from the Fort being quite level. I measured a base nearly the whole length of it, 9220 feet for the purpose of obtaining some data for estimating the Alt. of the Peak, it being the most prominent one in this portion of the country. My levels however from either end of this base only differed 10" & being obliged to depend upon the correctness of my eye for a level, concluded that I might as well depend upon the general estimated distance (until I had an opportunity of measuring a longer base) which being 55 miles would make its altitude above Vancouver 13090 feet or if 60 miles as some suppose, it would be 14390 feet bearing pr. comp. N 88°40’ East.^[12]

July 31, 1841.

Cloudy until 10 A. M . then clear and warm the remainder of the day, with light variable winds. Capt Varney took his departure for Fort George in the Brig Thos. Perkins, when Dr McL. furnished me a house on the bank of the river for my men to mess in, had various duties that kept the latter continually employed. Mr. Rodgers returned from the settlement having engaged the services of several Americans & obtained the promise that others would be ready, with the material required to complete our equipment as soon as we met at the appointed rendezvous in the Walhamet. Having this assurance, I was determined to leave here the earliest possible time, as the Indians were just commencing to burn the country, thereby interposing an obstacle that increased with my delay.

August 1, 1841.

Wind and weather the same. Being Sunday Episcopal and Catholic service was performed within the Fort, Mr. Douglas officiating in the former at his residence & Dr. McLaughlin in the latter at the Chapel. I was present at the former and witnessed a very respectable and general attendance, principally the Cos Officers and their families. The choir was led by a band of little boys & girls, generally half-breeds and mostly orphans who have come under the patronage of the Co. in various ways and are being educated and instructed in a manner that doubtless confer reciprocal benefits in time. Towards evening accompanied Dr McL. to his wheat fields and sheep farm down the river. The former were quite ready for harvesting, yielding bountiful crops averaging probably 30 bushels to the acre, low prairie ground. While upon this subject I will mention a fact which may not be common— adjoining the Fort there is a small bed of wheat that Dr McL. sowed for a sample, among this I saw 88 distinct shoots or spears of wheat springing from one seed and upon counting the kernels in one head found that they averaged about 60 making a total increase of 5279 kernels.^[13] The sheep were attended by a shepherd, all in excellent order, of several different breeds but principally Californian. Many had been imported from England at considerable expense, and were among the largest that I have ever seen. Upon the prairie farm there is a lake^[14] or narrow sheet of still water that connects with the Columbia many miles below and during high water is generally ascended by the Indians in their canoes to avoid the rapid current in the river, the portage at the head of this lake being narrow is easily overcome with light canoes. It was here that I first learned that pig would voluntarily dive under water, Dr McL— assuring me that he had frequently witnessed this curious anamoly and watched them until they reached' the shore & dispatched their prize which was nothing more or less than a species of clam or oyster. Just above this lake and upon the lower part of the prairie cool & wholsome water bubbles from the mellow earth at the rate of about 5 galls per minute. At this place we were refreshed with some lemonade, one of the Cos. servants having arrived with the necessary ingredients. Several large families of Indians encamped under the shade of large oaks on the prairie, the boughs of the latter being their only covering, miserably clad, ugly and dirty in the extreme, they had some wild ducks, hazel nuts and several kinds of berries, some of their childrens heads were being attended to in the process of being flattened.^[15] Finished my obs upon the N star, the means of placing this Fort in Lat 45° 36′ 26 N.

August 2nd, 1841.

Wind and weather continuing the same. During the day sent letters to Astoria, computed one outfit, taking some additional articles through the recommendation of Mr. Douglass. And about 3 30 pm, having returned many thanks to Dr McLaughlin & Mr Douglas for their marked attention & many kindnesses to myself & party, embarked upon the Columbia in a bateau furnished by the Co. which easily carried all my party now consisting of Messers Peal, Rich, Agate, Dr Whittle, Mr Rodgers, Doughty, Sutton, Merzer, Corpl. Hughes, Privates Smith & Marsh. Mr Steel the principal shepherd of the Co. who goes as far as Multnomah to deliver over the Cos horses to us & 3 men to return with the boat; and all our arms, ammunition, instruments & provisions amounting in all to about 50 packs, each averaging 90 lbs, consisting principally of peas, flour, pork, salt, tallow & hard biscuit. Descending the Columbia passed into the upper mouth of the Walhamet, then down the southern side of the Island of Multnomah,^[16] and finally landed on the Southern bank of the Walamat about sun-set, at the appointed rendezvous,^[17] and directly opposite Wyeth's old fort,^[18] the place being now converted into a Dairy by the H. B. Co. where they have a large stock of cattle and horses and make butter for a foreign market.

N. B.—Lieut. Geo. Thornton Emmons, (now retired from active service), has kindly furnished this copy from his father's journal at the request of Mr. T. C. Elliott, who has prepared the explanatory notes. It is our hope and expectation to print in some later number of the Quarterly the remainder of the journal covering the overland journey of the party across Oregon and California to San Francisco.

The Editor.

1. Charles Wilkes, Commander, whose five volume published report of the cruise is commonly known as Wilke's Narrative.
2. A dangerous sand-bar off Cape Disappointment has ever since^ carried the name of Peacock Spit. For account of the wreck see WilkesNarrative, Vol. IV, pp. 485-496.
3. Purchased by Commander Wilkes and renamed the Oregon. See Wilkes' Narrative, Vol. V, p. 115; also see Bancroft's Northwest Coast, Vol. II, p. 639 and 686; also Oregon Historical Quarterly, Vol. I, p. 198.
4. For similar diagram by Lieut. Vavasour see Oregon Historical Quarterly, Vol. X, No. 1 . For description of the fort see Wilkes' Narrative, Vol. IV, pp. 328-36; also John Dunn's Oregon Territory, pp. 101-04.
5. Mr. Joseph Drayton, artist and one of the draughtsmen of the expedition, who ascended the Columbia as far as the trading post known as Fort Nez Perce or Walla Walla in company with Peter Skene Ogden. See Wilkes' Narrative, Vol. IV, Chapter II; also see Oregon Historical Quarterly, Vol. XI, p. 270.
6. A false rumor. For Joseph R. Walker see Irving's Rocky Mountains, 1837 edition, Vol. I, p. 30; also Palmer's Journal (Early Western Travels) Vol. 30, p. 70.
7. George Rodgers, listed as private or civilian of the Expedition.
8. James Birnie, a prominent trader of the H. B . Co., then in charge of Fort George (Astoria), who was presented with the silver service by the officers of the Peacock in recognition of generous assistance rendered at the time of the wreck. He came to the Oregon country in 1818, retired from the service in 1845 and died at Cathlamet, Wash., in 1864.
9. William L. Hudson, Captain of the Peacock.
10. Rev. A. B. Smith, who had carried on missionary work among the Nez Perce Indians for about three years, and was leaving the country because of ill-health and local jealousies.
11. See Wilkes' Narrative, Vol. IV, p. 358, for mention of this site, which is now occupied in part by the Washington State School for the Deaf. The Oregon Historical Quarterly, Vol. IV. p. 397, has a fine mention of this location.
12. The elevation of Mt. Hood is now charted as 11,225 feet, located about 55 miles east and 15 miles south of Fort Vancouver.
13. A not unusual occurrence in the wheat fields of Eastern Oregon and Washington with certain varieties of wheat.
14. Vancouver Lake, west of present city of Vancouver, Wash.
15. A custom common to the Chinookan family of Indians, which extended up the Columbia beyond the Cascades. The custom never prevailed among the Rocky Mountain Indians and may have been applied there because of the presence among those tribes of some slaves captured from the Chinooks.
16. Wapato Island of Lewis and Clark; now Sauvies Island, so named after a retired servant of the H. B. Co., who settled there. One channel of the Willamette River, which was formerly much used by light-draft river steamers, separates this island from the main land of Oregon.
17. For earlier mention of this place see Journal of John Work in Oregon Historical Quarterly, Vol. 24, pp. 238-68. Here began the road used by traders and trappers and travelers from the Columbia river to California, overland.
18. This assists in the identification of a very historic spot in Oregon where Nathaniel Wyeth, of Cambridge, Mass., established his Fort William in 1834 in opposition to the H. B. Company. He was afterward compelled to dispose of both property and business to the larger company, but at a very fair consideration.