Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 4/Glimpses of Early Days in Oregon
GLIMPSES OF EARLY DAYS IN OREGON.
It would be difficult, indeed, to find anything new to say of pioneering or pioneers, and useless to trace the pioneers along their journey across the Plains. We will pass over an interval of eight months and introduce our loved fathers and mothers on their arrival at where Portland now stands.
On the first of November, 1845, after a journey of eight months of inconceivable hardships, a small party of those pioneers first stepped on the banks of the grand Willamette River, near where Morrison Street is now located. The rays of the setting sun casting their light and shade o'er the beautiful landscape, impressed the beholders with a deep feeling of thankfulness that they were permitted to reach the new land, and stand on the shore of the wonderful river of the west. The wind murmuring through the branches of the stately fir bade them welcome, and the old trees served as shelter for the next two months. With the aid of flint, steel, and powder, a large camp fire was soon burning brightly, casting a rich glow o'er the magnificent wall of forest trees. It was a picturesque scene. The soft moonlight, the sparkle of the water, the lurid light from the resinous fire, formed a scene worthy of a painter's skill. They sat around the fire for hours reveling in the luxury of rest; and they arrived destitute in all save character, determination, and self-reliance. With such sterling qualities failure was impossible.
The little company did not retire early, as they were forming plans for their future work. At a late hour buffalo robes and blankets were spread on the ground, and soon all were lost in sleep. The only sound that broke the silence was the yelp of the prowling coyote.
With the first rosy blushes of the dawn the men began to rise, and before the sun was fairly over the horizon the sound and echoes of their axes brought cheer to our mothers' hearts, for they knew ere long homes would shelter them from the winter's storms. Weeks of hard labor were required to fell the trees, and clear away the brush, and prepare the site on which to build. Trees were cut the proper length, one side of the log hewed smooth with a broadax, and fitted so they would join at the corners and lie compact. It was no easy task, but our loved pioneers, with only a saw, auger and ax, broadaxe and adze would put to shame some of the more modern workmen. Logs for the puncheon floors were split and smoothed with an adze, and fitted close together, making a warm and solid floor. The structure raised to a proper height, poles were used for rafters; some of the logs were cut three feet in length, from which shakes were made and used in place of shingles. The fireplace and chimney was built with sticks and plastered inside and out with a thick coating of clay. Some had a stout iron bar securely fastened on one side of the large fireplace; on this bar, which was called a crane, iron hooks were placed, on which the teakettle and other cooking utensils were hung; all cooking and baking was done before the open fire and broad clay hearth. Windows were a sort of sliding door in the wall, without glass. The furniture was extremely simple, being split out of fir or cedar trees, and, if not elegant, was substantial; doors were also made of shakes, and hung on wooden hinges. Wooden pegs were used in place of nails. Rough bedsteads were placed in one corner of the large room, the trundle bed pushed under it during the day, and at night drawn out ready for the little ones. For one to see the number of sweet faces and bright eyes of the many children lying in their beds, the scene would put the old woman who lived in her shoe far in the minority. Large quantities of moss stripped from the trees made good mattresses; with buffalo robes and blankets they had comfortable beds. Their primitive cabins completed ready for occupancy, with heartfelt thankfulness they left the shelter of the trees for their first Oregon home.
The latchstring, like a welcome hand, bade them enter. A bright fire greeted them with her golden rays and warmth, and the sound of the teakettle, cheerily singing, they catch the glad refrain and quickly joined with—
"Home! Home! sweet, sweet home!
Be it ever so humble,
There's no place like home."
How well they realized the true meaning of home, as no roof had sheltered them for the past ten months. As the family gathered around the ruddy light of the cheerful fire, which was their only light, plans were made to visit Oregon City for supplies of food and clothing. Indians, with their canoes, conveyed them to their destination. Soon wheat, bolts of flannel, with other necessary articles, were purchased and shipped; fathers stepped on board, and the trusty Indian with a stroke of the paddle sent the frail craft swiftly gliding o'er limpid water. Ere long they were rushing over the Clackamas rapids, which in hurried haste, flows on and yet is never gone. As the sun was sinking behind the hills, they reached home, where the anxious mother, blinded by tears of gladness, thanked God for the much needed supply of clothing and wheat, which was their only bread. Deer and other game were plentiful, and easily brought down by their trusty rifle. Salmon was bought of the Indians. Ducks, geese, and swan were numerous. All winter mothers were kept busy cutting and making clothing for the entire household; also teaching their daughters how to sew, knit, and attend to general housework; and if mothers were sick they did the work with willing hands. The canoe and bateaux were their only means of transportation. Neighbors would surprise the family by bringing their violins, and spending the evening talking and dancing. The large room would be cleared of all furniture, which was placed in the loft where the small children were put to bed; soon the merry sound of tripping feet were keeping time to Money Musk, and other old time music, the old men talked over the possibilities of Oregon. One thought bridges would span the Willamette; others shook their heads, saying not while we live. Our children may live to see one. Others thought railroads would be built across the continent; all looked at the speaker and echoed "A railroad! Never, over those mountains. Why, man, no one in God's world will live to see that day. Steamers and ships will come, but no railroad."
Our pioneer mothers made their dresses with plain skirts; waists were sewed onto the skirt; sleeves were much like those worn by the women of to-day. Their hair was combed smooth by their forehead and wound in a coil high on their head, many wore side combs, a high back comb held their coil of glossy hair. Hairpins were an unknown luxury. White handkerchiefs were worn in place of collars, and they looked very pretty crossed or tied in a bow at the throat. All were deft with the needle, also weaving; those who have the rare blue and gray counterpanes, manufactured by their willing hands, possess an heirloom of great value.
In the spring of 1846 gardens were made by those living on farms, from which early vegetables were procured, and in the fall many bushels of potatoes, pease, and other vegetables were stored; of summer fruit there were wild strawberries, and later raspberries and blackberries, of which large quantities were picked and dried; also hazel bushes, producing nuts in abundance, which were gathered and stored for winter use. There was not much buying and selling, except of wheat, which was used as currency, as well as for food. Portland was founded in 1845 by pioneers who were quick to see the magnitude and resources of the country. J. B. Stephens, who was a cooper, saw the large revenue to be made by exporting salmon, and soon began making barrels and kegs, from which he netted a large profit. The first tannery built in Portland was erected near where the exposition building is located, by D. H. Lownesdale, who had the honor of introducing a new circulating medium, which was Oregon tanned leather.
In 1845 the first ferry from the east bank to the west shore was a canoe.
In 1845 Portland was named.
In 1846 the first blacksmith shop was erected on the northwest corner of First and Morrison streets.
In 1847 H. Luelling brought the first grafted fruit trees to the Northwest. His famous nursery was located near Milwaukie.
In 1847 Captain Crosby built the first frame house; others soon followed. Hotels, stores, and business houses were also erected. At that time the United States mail arrived yearly.
In 1848 the first Methodist Church was organized in Portland, and a church building was begun by J. H. Wilbur; doing good for others was his greatest pleasure. Blessed be his name!
In 1850 the first Congregational Church was erected on the northwest corner of Second and Jefferson streets. The oldest Congregational Church in Oregon was organized in 1842 at or near Hillsboro. The second was organized in 1844 at Oregon City by Harvey Clark, with three members; he also organized the first Congregational Church in Forest Grove; his many golden words and good examples are his living monument.
In 1849 Colonel William King built the first sawmill ever built in Portland, which was run by water power. Soon after it was finished it was destroyed by fire.
In 1850 W. P. Abrams and C. A. Reed erected the first steam sawmill in Oregon on the river bank near where Jefferson Street is located. This proved a profitable enterprise. Just south of the mill was an Indian encampment, occupied by different tribes. Their wigwams were constructed of bark and brush. Squaws sat on mats, weaving their water tight baskets, often very prettily decorated, while the Indian men lounged about in scarlet blankets, as if posing for a picture, and their children sat in their canoes gliding o'er the water with swanlike grace. Information had been circulated among them that the mill would be started up on a certain afternoon, and all were curious to see the working of this new evidence of the white man's superiority. At the stated time the Indians were in and around the mill; suddenly the steam whistle sounded its shrill shrieks in a continuous blood curdling blast, which sent every Indian man, woman and child fleeing for their lives into the dense woods. It was a long time before they could be induced to go near the mill.
In 1847, 1848, and 1849 many emigrants arrived who settled in Portland, adding thrift and push to our small colony. The discovery of gold in California on the twenty-fourth of January, 1848, caused Portland to look like a deserted hamlet, as all men and boys caught the gold fever and started for the golden shores of California, where many were killed by the Digger Indians; others died of various diseases, and some returned home broken in health, while others returned with their hard earned gold. Ships arrived yearly in Oregon with supplies for the Hudson Bay Company, by way of the Sandwich Islands.
In 1849 twenty vessels arrived, and quickly loaded with flour, salmon, pork, shingles, lumber, and other products, which they carried to the California market. From that time Portland began laying aside her swaddling clothes. The first mayor of Portland was Hugh D. O'Bryant, who was elected in 1851. When the city was incorporated it was in Washington County, and the people from Portland had to go to Hillsboro to hold court. In 1856 a meeting of the citizens of Portland was called to organize a volunteer company to protect the people and property, in case of an Indian outbreak; two hundred names were enrolled and H. W. Davis was appointed captain.
In 1850 the steamer Lot Whitcombe was built at Milwaukie, Oregon. In 1851 the steamers Eagle and Black Hawk were running between Portland and Oregon City, where those who wished to proceed farther south, would walk to Canemah and there board the steamer Beaver or Enterprise which would convey them to any of these points: Butteville, Champoeg, Mission Bottom, or Salem. Steamers Belle and Fashion were running between Portland and the Cascades.
In 1853 David Monnastes and H. W. Davis erected a foundry on First Street. Many other industries were established.
Among the pioneer doctors were Doctors Hawthorne and Lorrea, who erected the first hospital on Taylor, between First and Second streets. Soon after they selected a beautiful location in East Portland, surrounded by forest trees, and erected a home for the insane.
In 1853 W. S. Ladd built the first brick building in Portland. Others soon followed, and frame houses were now in evidence, and the log cabin in which so many happy hours were spent around the great fireside was fast disappearing, although built from necessity, not choice—happy memories of it still linger which time can not efface.
In 1850 several families left Portland to reside on their donation land claims. I will describe one of these homes: A frame house with large rooms, papered, and woodwork painted, glass windows, sitting room with a large brick fireplace, with a mantle of oak, easy chairs, a large mirror, table, and a corner cupboard filled with dishes. The kitchen was furnished with a cook stove and all other necessary articles. Feather beds were now in use. This house was erected near the bank of the ever beautiful Willamette. On the west a creek glided in sparkling beauty by the kitchen door, supplying the household with cold mountain water. Memory loves to recall those scenes. In a garden early vegetables and a variety of flower seeds were growing. A large frame barn stood on the hill, with pigpen and chicken house close by; a woodshed filled with wood stood near the back gate. In the fall, when it was time to garner the wheat, oats, or hay, neighbors, bringing their scythes and other instruments used to mow the harvest, would surprise the farmer at early dawn, saying, "Well, neighbor, I have come to help you with your harvesting;" and they never left until the bountiful crop had been garnered. The golden rule, do unto others as you would have them do unto you, was lived and practiced and represents to us that period in our social system when a neighborhood was as one great family.
In 1849 a mint was erected in Oregon City to coin five- and ten-dollar gold pieces, which were known as beaver money.
In the fall of 1849 a party of Oregonians, embarked on a sailing vessel, left California for Portland. The captain proved to be a most unkind and brutal master, not only to the sailors but to the passengers, who were compelled to eat the worst of food. After sailing for twenty-two days they encountered a violent gale, and were driven out of their course. As they were nearing the Columbia-river bar the vessel was drawn into the breakers at North Beach and was deserted by captain, crew, and passengers, who in their haste to save themselves forgot their gold. On reaching shore they were exhausted and were obliged to walk around the entire night to keep from freezing. In the early morning they saw smoke a short distance up the beach. Each man hurried to the scene. They found a comfortable house where they were made to feel at home in true pioneer style by the owner, a Mr. Johnson, who was, as all Scotchmen are, loyal and hospitable. As they were in a weakened condition the good man gave them a small quantity of food at first, which was fish cooked on the point of a stick held before the fire. All agreed that was the best food they had ever eaten. Now they related their hardships encountered on the voyage. Mr. Johnson sent out his Indians with instructions to reach the wreck and bring everything available ashore. This order seemed scarcely possible, but the brave Indians went through the breakers, reaching the vessel, and before night brought all the sacks of gold dust and many articles of wearing apparel ashore, where each man could claim his own. The party remained several days with their benefactor, who kindly conveyed them to Astoria.
In 1854 Thomas Fraser was the first to agitate the public school question. The following public spirited men were present: Thomas Fraser, W. S. Ladd, Josiah Failing, H. W. Corbett, P. Raleigh, A. D. Shelby, T. N. Larkin, A. L. Davis, C. Abrams, L. Limerick. All of these noble and unselfish men, except one, have passed on to their higher home—H. W. Corbett, the surviving one, a pioneer of 1851, loved, honored, and justly called the Father of Portland, is still the first to give his time and money for the betterment and upbuilding of the city and state. God grant that he may be spared many, many more years. No monument need be erected to their memory. The nobility of their lifework is woven and cemented deeply in the hearts of the people.
December, 1855, Multnomah County was organized. In January following L. Limerick was appointed county school superintendent. December 4, 1850, the first weekly Oregonian was published in Portland by T. J. Dryer. In 1851 the first regular monthly mail service began between Portland and San Francisco, per steamer Columbia.
Before Oregon was admitted to the Union in 1859 the log cabins had been cleared away, showing the pioneers were progressive.
In 1858 C. Stewart erected the first theatre building in Portland.
Wilcox School—The first day school of any kind was opened in Portland in the fall of 1847, by Dr. Ralph Wilcox. It was conducted in a house erected by Mr. McNemee at the foot of Taylor Street. It was properly a private school and continued one quarter. The names of some of the pupils are given: Frances McNemee (now Mrs. E. J. Northup), her brothers Moses, Adam, and William; Charlotte Terwilliger (now Mrs. C. M. Cartwright), Milton Doan's children—Sarah, Mary, Peter and John, Henry Hill, Helen Hill (now Mrs. Wm. Powell), J. Miller,—Murphy, Lucy and Charlotte Barnes, Emma and Sarah Ross, Lorenzo Terwilliger, and John Terwilliger. Doctor Wilcox came to Oregon in 1845.
Carter School—In February, 1848, Miss Julia Carter taught school in a log cabin on the corner of Second and Stark streets. She had thirty or more pupils. Those who attended Doctor Wilcox's school, also these additional: John Cullen, Carrie Polk, the Warren girls—one now Mrs. Richard White, the other Mrs. D. C. Coleman; Milton, John, Albert, Matilda, and Susan Apperson, were her pupils.
Hyde School—In the winter of 1848 and 1849, Aaron J. Hyde taught school in what was known as the Cooper shop, which was the only public hall in Portland. It was located on the west side of First Street, between Morrison and Yamhill streets.
Lyman School—Late in December, 1849, Rev. Horace Lyman opened a school in a frame building, which was built by Col. Wm. King for church and school purposes. It was located on First Street, second door north of Oak. On this building was placed a bell, which weighed about three hundred pounds. Stephen Coffin bought this bell at his own expense. Rev. Jas. H. Wilbur bought the bell of Mr. Coffin and placed it on the First Methodist Church. It now hangs in the steeple of the Taylor-street M. E. Church. He taught three months, had forty pupils. Among his pupils he recalls the Coffins, Chapmans, Parrishes, Kings, Hills, Terwilligers, Appersons, Watts, and McNemees.
Delos Jefferson School—In August, 1850, Delos Jefferson, now a farmer of Marion County, opened a school and taught three months.
Reed School—In April, 1850, Cyrus A. Reed taught school for three months. He had an average of sixty pupils. Among his pupils he recalls the names, Carters, Cullen, Coffin, Hill, Chapman, Terwilliger, Parrishes, Stephens, McNemee, and Watts. There was no other district organization.
Rev. Doane's School—Following Mr. Jefferson, came Rev. N. Doane, then and now a minister of the M. E. Church. He taught nine months, beginning December 1, 1850. To the former lists of pupils he adds Davises, Crosbys, Lownesdale, and Parrishes.
Central School—The Central School occupied the present site of the Portland Hotel. Monday, May 18, 1858, the first school in the Central Building was opened by L. L. Terwilliger, principal, with two assistants, Mrs. Mary J. Hensill and Owen Connelly. From the records I find that up to July 23, 1858, two hundred and eighty different pupils had been enrolled. The names of pupils, parents, and residences are on record. Of all the residences noted, but two were west of Seventh Street. Those two were F. M. Warren and Wm. H. King. Most of the residences were on First, Second, Third, and Fourth streets, with quite a number in Couch's Addition. Mr. Terwilliger was principal of the Central School for two and a quarter years.
Bishop Scott's Academy—Was opened in the spring of 1856, at Milwaukie.
Saint Mary's Academy—The oldest denominational school in Portland, was founded in 1859 by the Sisters of the Most Holy Name of Jesus and Mary. The first Catholic Church in Oregon was erected in 1839 at Saint Paul, Marion County.
In 1849 a Catholic Church was dedicated in Oregon City.
In 1851 the first Catholic Church was erected in Portland, and dedicated in 1852 by Archbishop Blanchet, who labored with zeal to better the condition of all. Peace to his memory.
In 1845 George Abernethy, who resided in Oregon City, was chosen to serve as governor of Oregon. He was a man of sterling qualities and well qualified for the office, and was a pioneer of 1840. In the fall of 1851 the academy on Seventh and Jefferson streets was opened with C. S. Kingsley, teacher. The school was surrounded by large trees and was a long distance from the village. No streets were improved near the school. One could follow the cow path that wound around, and the tinkling of the cow bell could be heard as late as 1861, when a law was passed prohibiting cattle from roaming on the streets.
GLIMPSE OF ONE OF MANY SIMILAR SCENES
ENDURED OUR LOVED PIONEERS.
In 1850 Mr. S. M. Hamilton, with his wife and four children, after a long journey across the Plains arrived at the Cascades. They were impressed with the towering mountains and beautiful scenery. Here they decided to locate on a donation land claim, which is now known as Hamilton's Island. A comfortable house soon greeted them. Mrs. Hamilton, who is still with us, is a woman of culture and refinement, and many owe their success in life to her loving example and words of cheer; but dark days were hovering around their peaceful home. The terrible news that Indians were lurking to plunder and kill had filled their hearts with terror. Mr. Hamilton had arranged, if the outbreak did occur, that two men were to take charge of the boat, while others were to remain and defend their property. A bateaux lay in readiness. On the morning of the 26th of March, 1856, the dreaded signal sounded, striking terror to the stoutest hearts. Mr. Hamilton hurried to his home, where wife and children were terrified. His first word was "Mary, the Yakima Indians have attacked the men, who were working on the portage railroad, and will soon reach our home. Your only safety is to embark at once, with other families, who are hurrying to reach the boat, their only means of escape." All were now on board except one woman, who was carrying her babe, and running over the rocks as fast as her strength would permit. One of the men who had charge of the boat said "Push out and leave her." Mr. Hamilton placed his hand on the boat, saying, "No, no; never leave man, woman, or child who is in sight." By this time the woman and child were on board; quickly the boat was in the swift current, the occupants were lying on the bottom to escape the whizzing bullets and arrows of the savages, whose demoniacal and blood curdling yells added terror to the mothers' hearts. Picture the agony of those mothers as they were floating away from loved ones and home, listening to the frightful shrieks and rapid shooting of the Indians. For a moment the father watched the receding craft that held all that was dear—dearer than life—not knowing when, or if ever, they would meet again. With upturned face he exclaimed "Oh, God, have mercy and protect the dear ones." A bullet whistled past his head; he raised his trusty rifle, fired, one Indian fell; again and again his rifle was reloaded and fired, each time sure of its mark. That night his house was burned. The Indians were armed with guns and arrows. They killed one woman and her husband; several men were killed; after hours of suspense those in the boat sighted the steamer Fashion. She quickly halted, taking all on board, turned back, reaching Vancouver the following day, where the alarm was sounded, and the steamer hurried on to Portland; there the bells tolling forth called out the citizens, who, on hearing the terrible news began collecting guns and ammunition; the entire population was aroused. Nothing since the Whitman massacre had brought such sorrow to their hearts. Early in the morning the steamer, loaded with human freight, started for the sad scene. A steamer had left Fort Vancouver with our illustrious Sheridan, who, with forty men reached the Cascades first. On landing they received a volley from the Indians, who fought like demons. Now the steamer arrived with the Portland volunteers. At the same time Colonel Steptoe, from The Dalles, with infantry and volunteers, arrived, who surprised the Indians, many of whom were horse racing, others were watching Sheridan. As they saw the new arrival of blue coats, they fled to the hills. Nine of the ring leaders were captured and hung. To relate all the thrilling incidents encountered by the early pioneers would fill volumes, and in conclusion, I feel that the hallowed remembrances of all our loyal patriotic pioneer fathers and mothers will live to the end of time, as they braved dangers that tongue or pen fail to express, and by their life's work each one has erected their invincible monument.
CHARLOTTE MOFFETT CARTWRIGHT,
Pioneer of 1845.