custom, wash and purify themselves before they go into the church; for they maintain and believe that, if they pray without washing, their devotions are of no value. They also leave their shoes outside in front of the church, and go in barefoot. It is incredible how they hold to cleanliness in their churches; they do not suffer any dirt, cobwebs, or rubbish to be in them, neither do they allow a Christian to enter them, unless he has obtained leave by presents. Moreover, they do not permit any dog or domestic animal to go in. They enter the church with the following humility and lowliness, after taking off their shoes. They prostrate themselves silently on the ground, kiss it, and pray as fervently as if they saw God there with their own eyes. No one lounges or walks about in church, no one chatters with another, and nothing else is heard but fervent prayer. All of their temples are carpeted on the ground, or covered all over with matting, on which, according to their custom, they stand with bare feet, kneel, or sit crosslegged. No snifting or spitting is to be heard there, for they consider it a great sin. If it happens to any one that he has sneezed involuntarily or spit upon the ground, he immediately goes out of the temple, purifies himself again, and washes himself with water. Let me speak briefly. These Pagans are more fervent in their religion than we Christians, who have the true knowledge of the Lord God Almighty, and ought, therefore, day and night to give thanks to his Holy Majesty that we have come to that true knowledge, and be more fervent in our prayers than we are.
On Oct. 31 we were ferried across the river Morava, not far from Jagoden. This river divides Servia, or