On Nov. 3 we came to a small town called Kurichesme, in which there is no inn. On the left hand flows a stream called the Zukava. On the 4th we started early, and by vespers saw the town of Pirot, but, without halting, dined off what we each had on the carriages. Close to this town, on a height, is a ruined castle, of which only the walls are standing. In the evening we arrived at Tambrod, a miserable village without an inn; and here we spent the night.
On Nov. 5 we spent the night in the village called Bobitza, and next day arrived at the city of Sophia. This is tolerably large and populous, and in it resides the Beglerbeg of Greece. It formerly belonged to the kings of Hungary, then to the despots, or princes, of Servia, as long as their dynasty lasted, and till it perished through the Turkish wars. The beglerbeg ordered us to be welcomed by his chiaouses. Early in the morning he sent several handsome horses to our inn, on which our principal personages mounted; and my lord the ambassador seated himself on the beglerbeg’s own riding-horse, which was a very handsome one; the saddle, reins, and all the trappings were studded with precious stones, and certainly cost many thousands. Mounting these Turkish horses, we rode to the beglerbeg in the same manner as at Buda, and on arriving at his abode saw on one side about 100 janissaries, on the other, the same number of spahis standing in a long row up to his chamber. When we entered the hall we found it hung round with handsome Persian tapestry. There sat the beglerbeg on a chair, and my lord the ambassador also seated himself on a chair opposite to him. Behind the beglerbeg stood two boys, dressed,
