Pumphrey's Landing is at the head of navigation on the Cowlitz. Until the middle of July a small steamer ran up to this point, but is now discontinued until a return of high-water. It is from here that canoe passage is taken down stream to Monticello—an exciting and pleasant excursion—the river being very rapid, and the Indians very expert.
We are on the road again by day-break, crossing Pumphrey's Mountain before breakfast. The road, in all respects, resembles that of the day previous. The morning is quite cool, although it is July weather, and the blazing, open fire which welcomes us at McDonald's, gives the most cheering impression. Here we obtain a substantial breakfast, and have time to admire the comfortable, home-like appearance of this isolated station.
Our road now lies across McDonald's Prairie, from which we catch the first real view of Mount Rainier, the grandest snow-peak of the Cascade Range; which fact it pains us to admit, because we had taken Mount Hood to be the highest, and even maintained its pretensions over Mount Shasta, its California rival. But our eyes convince us that Rainier is chief among the snow-peaks, and altogether lovely. Measurement makes it just four feet higher than Shasta—so the North has the champion mountain, after all. The lights and shades upon it, as we catch frequent glimpses during the day, are beautiful beyond criticism.
There is very little good farming land along the line of the road. Where there is not a thick growth of forest, the intermediate prairies are gravelly, making excellent driving, but poor farming. Occasionally, where there is a small piece of valley land, it is of the richest description. The grass that is being cut in some of these little valleys is the heaviest we ever saw.
