Cultivators desirous of obtaining an early bloom, may commence by sowing their seed early in March, in pots or boxes of earth in the house, giving them as much sun as possible during the warmth of the day, and protecting them from the influence of a chill during night. This operation must, however, be performed with great care, to scarcely cover the more delicate kinds, while the stronger-growing may be sown a quarter of an inch in depth. A very delicate watering-not, which suffers the water to fall like a shower of dew over the earth without washing away the most delicate seed, should be used. Give only a sufficient quantity of water; the greatest fault with the inexperienced is their propensity to drown every plant, which is equally injurious with depriving the plants entirely of sustenance. Preserve each kind distinctly labelled.
However, the most proper method, and that most generally practised by families having large gardens, is to “throw up” a small hot-bed, in which the pots containing seed may be plunged to their rims, or sown in shallow drills on earth previously placed over the manure, and should then be labelled to prevent mistake. The Cyprus Vine, Scarlet Morning Glory, and other species of the Convelvolaceæ, should be soaked a few hours in warm water before being placed in the ground. They will then vegetate much earlier and more regularly, and will blossom sooner. Many varieties will vegetate much sooner by covering them with a hand-glass, which should be taken off shortly after their appearance above ground, lest they should be rendered weak and sickly by confinement.
Cover the bed up carefully at night, for fear of sudden cold chilling the plants. Give them air by raising the sash on every fine day: this will render them more hardy, and capable of enduring transplanting with less danger.
Lupins delight in a half-shady spot, and should never be transplanted: the seed may be sown early in March, in the open ground, and, when in city culture, kept moist after vegetation. Leaf or peat soil to mix will prove advantageous.
Hardy perennial and biennial seeds may be sown about the same time as the annuals. These do not blossom the first year; they may therefore be thinned out or removed from the beds in which tey have been first planted: when their roots acquire sufficient strength, set out in the places they are to occupy for the succeeding year. They must be kept free from weeds, and the ground occasionally loosened to facilitate their growth. Biennials are generally raised from seed sown every year. Many varieties of hardy annuals flower much larger and finer in the spring, if sown the preceding summer or fall, so as to vegetate previous to frost. Among these, the Dwarf Rocket Larkspur, Branching Larkspur, Strawberry Spinach, Evening Primrose, Coreopsis Tinctores, Sweet Williams, Punks, all kinds of Poppies and Gillias.
There are many kinds that do not endure the frost, but which vegetate much earlier by the seeds passing the winter in the earth. Among these, the Marvel of Peru, Double Balsamine or Lady’s Slipper, Cypress Vine, Euphorbias, Sweet Peas, Convolvolus, &c., stand pre-eminent. These, however, answer nearly as well by planting in March, April, and May; and indeed, we have seen seeds of all the varieties, sown in June, flowering beautifully when the others were nearly ended. As soon as a flower begins to fade, pinch it off, and you will have several more equally as fine, to take its place, besides always having your plant neat. The strength given by the plant, to ripen seed, would then be thrown into the production of fresh flower buds.
Biennials are such as are of two years’ duration; being sown one year, they flower, seed or fruit the next, and soon after decay. Sow the seeds during April, either in spots where they are to remain, or in beds by themselves, distinctly marked; to be transplanted to desired situations early in the Fall. The following are among the most free-blooming and desirable sorts: Rose Campion, Holyhock, Snap Dragon, Canterbury Bells, Wall Flower, Foxglove, Pinks, Dwarf Evening Primrose, and their varieties.
Perennial herbaceous plants are those which die down to the root yearly; the roots of which remain many years. There is no class of plants more deserving general culture in the flower garden than perennials; for when once introduced they require but trifling attention: their increase is also of the most encouraging nature, being, in most varieties, effected by simply dividing or parting the roots in the autumn or spring. Herbaceous plants may be divided into three classes, viz.–Bulbous, as the Tulip, Hyacinth, and most Lilies; Tuberous, as the Dahlia and Pæony; and Fibrous, as the Phlox and Perennial Aster. These may again be divided into hardy and tender. Among the bulbs, Tulips and Hyacinths are hardy; the Jacobean Lily, Tiger Flower (Tigridia), and Gladiolus, are tender. In tuberous roots, the Pæony is hardy and the Dahlia tender; and in fibrous, most kinds are hardy, although in many cases they are killed by the winter and by wet saturating their crowns, on which account it is necessary they should be partially covered in winter to protect them from being injured in this manner.
VINES.
Prune hardy kinds in the Spring, by cutting out all dead or superfluous branches, regulating the remainder at an equal distance apart, when they are nailed with shreds of woollen or leather, or tied up neatly. In summer, prune so that the branches may not be too thickly crowded.
Propagate by taking off joints where they have rooted, and planting in the same manner and soil as the parent, in September. Cover the roots with fine earth, and keep moist. Some varieties, as the Honeysuckle and Clematis, are readily propagated by layers and cuttings. (See Plans.)
PLANTS.
Roses should be pruned in the Spring: if allowed to grow straggling they neither thrive nor flower well. The rose always flowers from the young wood, and by being well trimmed more are thrown out. The rose is easily propagated in a deep rich soil. The Moss Rose will thrive on a clay bottom.
Althea, or Rose of Sharon, Snowballs, Honeysuckles, and most kinds of soft-wooded plants, may be propagated in the Fall or Spring, by sticking cuttings one foot long, hall-way down, ten inches apart, in moist shady ground, well dug and pulverized, with a northern aspect. Press the ground hard round the cutting. To propagate by layers, bend the plant down, making an incision to the under part of the shoot or joint about half an inch; press perpendicularly two or three inches deep, and secure it in the ground, which must be well prepared.
Inoculate by taking well-ripened buds, say in July or August; make an incision in the rind, taking care not to cut through the albumen nor into the wood; cut half an inch below and half an inch above the bud, with about half the wood and bark; press the rind gently back and insert the bud, carefully closing all around and binding with bars or other strings. The plants must be perfectly healthy.
Cold, late in the season, must be guarded against; the tender plants removed to their winter quarters, and those that remain out through the winter. About the middle of November, protect all herbaceous plants by covering them on their crowns and roots with long manure and leaves, tying the branches up neatly, and covering with straw so as to turn off the rain and frost.
Insects may be removed by a strong decoction of tobacco juice, or one made of soft snap, sulphur, and tobacco: sponge or bathe over three or four times. Keep the ground, fences, &c., clean about the flowers, by painting, whitewashing, &c.
