Page:Archaeological Journal, Volume 1.djvu/303

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DRESSES AND DECORATIONS OF THE MIDDLE AGES.
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which embellish every page. Mr. Shaw has availed himself of the recent improvements in the process of printing in colours by the use of woodcuts: the effect is most satisfactory, the brilliant initial letters and coloured decorations introduced in the letter-press, render it scarcely less attractive to the eye than the plates themselves.

This work will prove particularly serviceable to those who investigate the details of costume, which are constantly found to be the most valuable key to the chronological arrangement of works of art during the middle ages. The examples of ecclesiastical costume, as also of sacred ornaments and appliances, are of a very interesting character, especially the mitre and vestments of St. Thomas of Canterbury, preserved in the treasury of the cathedral of Sens, where he resided for a time after his flight into France in 1164. The apparel of the Amice, of which a representation is here given, may serve as a specimen of the designs of the embroidery which adorns these curious relics. The colours, which alternate at short intervals, are red, blue, and green; the crosses, the running design on the border, and some other portions, appear to have been wrought with gold, whence embroidery of this kind received the appellation aurifrigum, or an orfrey. The width of the original apparel is 41/2 inches. The most curious object preserved at Sens, as having belonged to Becket, is the mitre, of which Mr. Shaw has given a beautiful representation. It appears to be the mitra auriphrygiata of the Roman Ceremonial, which was formed of tissue of gold and embroidery, without any gems or plates of gold and silver. It is adorned with a remarkable ornament, which was very frequently introduced on the vestments of the Greek Church, and of which several examples occur on sepulchral brasses or other memorials in England: this symbol, originally formed by a combination of the letter gamma four times repeated, was termed Gammadion. The conformity of fashion between this mitre attributed to St. Thomas, and the mitre