AROUND THE COAST 49 We reach now the narrow estuary of the Fowey river, with Fowey town consisting of one narrow street beside the tidal creek, and with Polruan on the further shore. The coast now becomes very bold, and Polperro, five miles beyond, was once a notorious haunt of smugglers. At Looe, the two rivers bearing the same name fall into a bay, and seaward stands up Looe Island, crowned Polperro by~the ruins of a chapel. This island was also a haunt of smugglers, and it was found necessary to establish a coast- guard station on it to keep them in control. East Looe and West Looe each sent two members to Parliament before the passing of the Reform Bill. Between Looe and Rame Head is Whitesand Bay, so called from the whiteness of the sand. The quicksands
