14 CORNWALL places have to be reached over long, sloping fields, and entail a good deal of scrambling ideal places to resort to for a whole day with picnic provision, so long as one has a clear head and steady foot, but not to be sought as a " side-show." Very many of the little coast places too are down at the end of what may be called long shafts, and to the ardent cyclist, intent on mileage, to go down, down, down, for miles till he can see the cows grazing in the fields high overhead, and to arrive at last at a little port where a few old salts sit and smoke and idle, and there is no way of getting out again but by the funnel, is a matter for as strong comment as conscience permits. Yet again for those who love what is beautiful and un- hackneyed, there is charm beyond measure in the spirit of these places. In Polperro, which might be a bit of Brittany planted wholesale in our land ; or Fowey, with its unforgettable harbour, where the blue tide creeps up like a stain of spreading dye ; or in Mullion, with its huge rounded masses of rock lying off the coast. Another popular idea of Cornwall, also mistaken, is that the interior of the Duchy is hideous and only the coast beautiful. There is much that is ugly no doubt ; raw places where the half-grown
