that the ceiling is not dry, and if this is so, no amount of care in making or putting on the calcimine will make the ceiling white. Another cause of failure may be due to the fact that some people do not consider it neeessaiy to finish a new ceiling. This is also a mistake, for the finish stops absorption, and if there is a little whiting in it, it helps to cover, and, moreover, makes the distempering a much easier job, as it prevents it dragging, and, to use a painter's term, the distemper spreads like butter. The addition of a little alum is also an improvement to the finish.
The following is a brief list of tints that are most usually required on ceilings and the method of producing them:
Cream. A variety of cream colors of different shades and hues are produced by mixing ochre, which gives a yellowish cast. A little umber or Venetian red may also be added.
Gray. A nice effect is produced by a gray ceiling, especially when the walls are highly colored. Blue black is the best for the purpose.
Green. Very light greens look very pretty, but if they are too dark the effect is wholly spoiled. A variety of lime greens are made suitable for mixing with lime, and a very small quantity will be required. A touch of blue black may also be added when a neutral green is required.
Pink. A little Venetian red gives a nice pink, but if something more pronounced is required lake may be used.
Blue. A large variety of blue tints can be obtained by using the color sold under the name of "lime blue." These blues are really a variety of ultramarine.
Browns. Very light browns may be obtained by using sienna or umber or a mixture of both.
Almost as great a variety of colors in distemper may be obtained as in oil colors, but certain colors cannot be used with whiting at all. The following is a list of them: Prussian blue, Antwerp blue, Naples yellow, vermilion, lakes
