elastic priming, and it must not be spread too thick, thick coats are apt to show brush marks, and brush marks in the rough-stuff will show in the finishing varnish. Put the rough-stuff on smoothly and set the body away for 48 hours to harden, or, if preferred, when 24 hours have passed the largest holes may be puttied part full, then give the other 24 hours for drying.
The second, third and fourth coats of rough-stuff may be put on one day apart, then a thin coat of stain, to guide the workman while rubbing, some yellow ochre or other cheap pigment mixed in japan and turpentine, may be added.
Rough-stuff will always give better satisfaction when applied in a medium thin coat. It is entirely against common sense to plaster on a great mass of this paint, with the desire to level the work quickly.
When the work of rubbing is completed, the body should be washed clean, and well dried off with a chamois skin, then set aside for the evaporation of moisture from the porous paint.
This drying out is of vital importance, and should never be neglected.
Rough-stuff, providing it is good-rubbing rough-stuff, is necessarily porous, no matter what pigment or vehicle is used, and a portion of the water used in rubbing is absorbed by it, therefore it is essential, after the moisture has all been evaporated, that the pores be closed, in order that the oil of subsequent coats may not be absorbed by them.
It is the aim in this system of painting to form a non-absorptive surface, and it will be seen that if the filler closed up the pores of the wood it will assuredly close up the pores of the leveling paint, therefore, a coating is applied to the rubbed surface of paint in the same manner as in priming the wood, wiping off all that will readily leave the surface, thus rendering the paint elastic, yet
