Kwando with the navigable waters of the Okavango, at the point
where the overflow mentioned below takes place, has likewise been
suggested. The Shiré is also navigable for a considerable distance.
The sum of such navigable reaches within the Zambezi basin as
exceed 100 m. is nearly 4000 m.
Tributaries.—The tributaries of the Zambezi are very numerous. The course of the more important streams is as follows: The Kabompo, which flows in from the east in about 14° 8′ S., rises not far from 11° 34′ S., 25° 17′ E. in the high land which forms the eastern watershed between the Zambezi and Congo systems. In 13½° S. it receives on the right bank a tributary, the Lunga, said to be more important than the upper Kabompo itself, and rising somewhat farther north. The Lungwebungu, which enters the Zambezi from the west in 14° 35′ S., is a strong, deep stream 200 yds. wide in its upper course, flowing in a valley bordered by undulations of white sand covered by thin forest, its floor forming at times an inundated plain 2 to 3 m. wide.
The Kwando, largest of the western affluents of the Zambezi, formerly known as the Chobe and frequently spoken of as the Linyante from the ruined capital of the Makololo, situated on its lower course, rises in about 12° 40′ S., 18° 50′ E., and flows in a generally straight course south-east to 17° 30′ S., at which point it makes a sudden bend to the south before flowing east to the Zambezi. In this eastward stretch the Kwando for some 70 m. flows through a vast reedy swamp or lake studded with alluvial islands. Apart from its head-streams, it receives most of its tributaries from the west, and at its most southern bend is joined by the Magwe'-kwana, which in time of flood receives some of the surplus water of the Okavango (see Ngami). This surplus water, received after most of the flood water of the Kwando has passed, raises the level of the lake and holds up the waters of the Kwando for some miles above it.
Of the streams which enter the upper Zambezi from the east, the largest, after the Kabompo, is the Luena, which rises in 16° S., 26° E., and flows first north-west, afterwards west-south-west, joining the main river a little north of 15° S. Others are the Njoko joining in 17° 8′ S., the Machili, which enters in about 25° E., the Lumbi, 16° 45′ S., and the Umgwezi, 17° 37′ S. The largest tributary of the middle Zambezi—the Kafukwe—rises" in about 11° 35′ S. at an elevation of 4400 ft. in thick forest country. The main head-stream, which flows first south-east, afterwards south-west, is joined in 14° 35′ S. by the Lunga or Luanga, an important right-bank tributary, the united stream then flowing first south, afterwards due east. The lower Kafukwe is a large navigable river until about 40 m. from its mouth, but it then descends from the plateau by a series of falls and cataracts, the drop being over 1000 ft. in 15 m., one very high fall occurring in a stupendous chasm. The next great tributary to the east is the Loangwa (also called Luangwa) which in its upper course runs parallel to the western shores of Lake Nyasa, having its source not far from the north-west corner of the lake. The main stream flows in a generally level valley, bounded by steep plateau escarpments, and is for the most part shallow and rapid, though fairly wide. In 14° 30′ S., however, it passes through narrow gorges with a speed of 8 or 9 m. an hour. In 15° 5′ S. it is joined by the Lunsefwa, which, with its tributary, the Lukosasi, drains a large extent of the western plateau, its basin being separated by the Mchinga mountains from that of the Loangwa. The Loangwa joins the Zambezi a little above the town of Zumbo. For some distance its lower course forms the frontier between Portuguese and British territory. From the south the middle Zambezi receives various rivers which water northern Matabele and Mashona lands—namely, the Shangani, Sanyati, and Hanyani, besides minor streams. The Mazoe, which also rises in Mashonaland, joins the Zambezi below the Kebrabasa Rapids.
Exploration of the River.—The Zambezi region was known to the medieval geographers as the empire of Monomotapa and the course of the river, as well as the position of Lakes Ngami and Nyasa, was filled in with a rude approximation to accuracy in the earlier maps. These were probably constructed from Arab information. The first European to visit the upper Zambezi was David Livingstone in his exploration from Bechuanaland between 1851 and 1853. Two or three years later he descended the Zambezi to its mouth and in the course of this journey discovered the Victoria Falls. During 1858-60, accompanied by Dr (afterwards Sir) John Kirk, Livingstone ascended the river by the Kongone mouth as far as the Falls, besides tracing the course of its tributary the Shiré and discovering Lake Nyasa. For the next thirty-five years practically no additions were made to our knowledge of the river system. In 1889 the entrance of vessels from the sea was much facilitated by the discovery by Mr D. J. Rankin of the Chinde channel north of the main mouths of the river. Major A. St Hill Gibbons and his assistants, during two expeditions, in 1895-96 and 1898-1900, ably continued the work of exploration begun by Livingstone in the upper basin and central course of the river. Of non-British travellers Major Serpa Pinto examined some of the western tributaries of the river and made measurements of the Victoria Falls (1878). Steamers had been used on the lower river—the “Ma-Robert” and the “Pioneer”—by the Livingstone expedition of 1858-61, but the utilization of the Zambezi as a commercial highway was inconsiderable until after the discovery of the Chinde mouth. The first steamer placed on the river above the Kebrabasa Rapids was the “Constance” launched by the Gibbons expedition at Chikoa in September 1898. She steamed to beyond the Guay confluence, and being ultimately sold to a commercial company, was used to carry goods on the middle Zambezi. The first steamer placed on the river above the Victoria Falls was the “Livingstone,” launched in August 1902.
See David and Charles Livingstone, Narrative of an Expedition to the Zambesi and its Tributaries (1865); A. de Serpa Pinto, How I Crossed Africa (1881); D. J. Rankin in Proc. R. G. S. (March, 1890); A. Sharpe, ibid. (December, 1890); H. S. Bivar, “Curso medio do Zambeze,” B. S. G. Lisboa, vol. xxiv. (1906); G. W. Lamplugh in Geo. Jnl., vol. xxxi. (1908); F. Coillard, On the Threshold of Central Africa (London, 1897), and A. St H. Gibbons, Africa from South to North through Marotseland (2 vols., London, 1904), which gives the results of a detailed examination of the upper Zambezi valley (with map). The last-named author has kindly revised the account given above. (F. R. C.)
ZAMBOANGA, the capital of the Moro Province, and of the District (or Comandancia) of Zamboanga, and a port of entry, on the island of Mindanao, Philippine Islands, at the S. extremity of the western peninsula. Pop. (1903) 3281; of the comandancia, 20,692. Zamboanga has one of the most healthful sites in the islands, its climate being decidedly cooler than that of Manila. Since the American occupation the trade has greatly increased and various improvements have been planned or are under way, including a new custom-house, better facilities for docking, pavements, bridges, and public parks. The Provincial Capitol, one of the finest government buildings in the Philippines, was completed in 1908. There is considerable valuable timber in the vicinity, live-stock is extensively raised, and rice, copra, hemp, sugar-cane, tobacco, and sweet potatoes are other important products. Zamboanga was one of the oldest Spanish settlements in the islands, it having been taken and fortified as a base against the Moros, and it still contains an old stone fort. Many of the inhabitants are descendants of slaves who escaped from the Moros and sought Spanish protection. A Spanish patois, called “Zamboangueno,” is spoken by most of the native inhabitants.
ZAMINDAR, or Zemindar (from Persian zamin = “land”), an Indian landholder. In official usage the term is applied to any person, whether owner of a large estate or cultivating member of a village community, who is recognized as possessing some property in the soil, as opposed to the ryot (q.v.), who is regarded as having only a right of occupancy, subject in both cases to payment of the land revenue assessed on his holding. The zamindari system obtains throughout northern and central India, and also in the permanently settled estates of Madras.
The raja of Benares had certain special rights as zamindar, and in 1910 it was arranged to make part of his “family domain” a new native state with, an area of 887 sq. m. (pop. 362,000).
ZAMINDAWAR, a district of Afghanistan, situated on the right bank of the Helmund river to the N.W. of Kandahar, bordering the road which leads from Kandahar to Herat via Farah. Zamindawar is a district of hills, and of wide, well populated, and fertile valleys watered by important affluents of the Helmund. The principal town is Musa Kala, which stands on the banks of a river of the same name, about 60 m. N. of Girishk. The whole of this region is a well-known hotbed of fanaticism, the headquarters of the Achakzais, the most aggressive of all Durani tribes. It was from Zamindawar that much of the strength of the force which besieged Kandahar under Ayub Khan in 1880 was derived; and it was the Zamin-
