top of Khumpong I tried to get a view over the country to the east and north, so as to have some idea as to the route before me, but the forest was so thick that I could only get glimpses of a densely wooded tract of steep hills running up to a long ridge which leads to the top of Rishi-la, the point we wished to reach. The policeman said that the track was so much obstructed by landslips and fallen trees, that it would be im¬ possible to take ponies beyond the turning from the main road; but I have found by experience that the information one gets from those who have not actually been over the ground is often incorrect, and the diffi¬ culties exaggerated. Returning from here to Rississum I saw but few birds except the common ones, and the special object of my search, the lovely blue Nuthatch, Sitta formosa, which is said to be found on the hills near, remained invisible, though Aten, whose eyes were sharper than mine, and who knew the note of every bird in the district, kept a sharp look-out in the high trees whilst I was searching for butterflies on the ground. I met my pony on the road back and cantered up to the bungalow just in time to avoid a heavy thunderstorm, which drove in my butterfly hunter as well. The few hours of sunshine which one has even during a break in the rains must be made the most of by a collector. Though many of the butterflies in these woods fly more or less even during cloudy and wet days, yet many of them are so rare that one cannot hope to get more than an idea of their variety in a few months’ collecting.
In the afternoon Prestage arrived after a long march from Pashok, and brought a brace of Kalij, the black crested pheasant of the Eastern Himalaya, which he had shot on the road. He was provided with a couple of tarpaulin sheets to make tents, and had enough of his own coolies from Darjeeling to carry such supplies as we should need for the next few days. On the following day we did not start till the afternoon as I expected Abbé Desgodins to breakfast. The morning being very bright and fine I spent several hours profitably in collecting butterflies, which came in some numbers to the little open clearing round the bungalow. Among them were the beautiful green Papilio arcturus; the very rare Papilio gyas, which I had never seen before; the splendid Teinopalpus imperialis, of which five or six were flying with great rapidity round the top of the trees, though these were as usual very hard to catch. Limenitis zayla and L. daraxa, one or two rare and beautiful Theclas, and other Lycænidæ were taken. I also saw a single specimen of Zophœssa yama, the largest and finest of the genus. The Abbé arrived on foot about eleven with his net, for though not such an ardent naturalist as our mutual friend the Abbé David, whose scientific discoveries in China and Tibet have given him a world-wide fame, he collects insects for friends in France. He was delighted to talk his native language, and gave me much valuable information as to the feelings of the Tibetans, whose language he understood thoroughly. His opinion was that the withdrawal of the Mission would have the worst possible effect on our relations with Tibet, and would make them believe that their hostile demonstrations had frightened us away.
After an animated conversation with our guest we took leave of him about two, and started to overtake our coolies, who had gone onto Pashiteng,
