The gannets do not breed on the island of St. Kilda at all, but only on Boreray and the adjacent rocks, called Stac-an-Annum and Stac-an-Ligh. These are two almost perpendicular stacks of great height, with flattish tops, which are so crowded with gannets that at a distance they look as if covered with snow. The ascent of these rocks would be impossible to anyone but a St. Kildan; and even to him it is a matter of great difficulty, and can only be effected in the calmest weather. Then a boat is rowed as near as they dare go, and the most active man, jumping out with a rope, scrambles up a short distance and makes it fast to an iron hook, which was fixed in the rock by some of the ancient inhabitants, and without which it would now be impossible to ascend. Four or five of the best climbers then help each other up to the top, where they kill as many of the young gannets as are required and throw them into the sea. This generally takes place in September, when the young are very fat, and heavier than the old birds. They are called “Guga” by the natives, whilst the old ones have the same name, “Sulair,” as is used elsewhere, and expresses their extremely sharp sight *
We were unable to land on Boreray owing to the tremendous swell, and were obliged to content ourselves with a view of its immense crags - from below. It is nearly as high as St. Kilda, being 1,073 feet, and is even more precipitous, as there is hardly a level spot on it.
Until we actually entered the Bay of St, Kilda, very few birds, except gannets and gulls, were seen; and I should not have known that the fulmars were there, until I came to the cliffs where they breed, as they move about very little by day, being very nocturnal in their habits, like the other petrels. They are very seldom seen on the coasts of the “Long Island,” except after severe gales, or on dark foggy days, when they wander further away.
Soon after we entered the bay the people began to appear; and some of the men came off to the steamer in a large, clumsy boat, the only one, however, they have in which to go to the adjacent isles. Some years before, Captain Otter, R.N., who was employed for many years in surveying the district, got them a large and well-found boat, hoping thereby to encourage deep-sea fishing, which is totally neglected on account of the bad weather which so often prevails. This boat, unfortunately, in attempting to cross to Harris, was lost on some rocks called the Glorigs of Taransay, and all her crew, including seven or eight of the best men in the island, were drowned. This sad accident, together with the casualties which take place every now and then from the carelessness of the climbers, has very much reduced the able-bodied population of the island; and there are not more than twenty men now who can pursue their occupations on the rocks. The population at present (1868) is about seventy, and is not increasing, as many of the children die of a disease which appears to be almost peculiar to the place, and commonly carries them off beween the fifth and eighth days.
The men were all stout and hardy, well dressed in homespun cloth; and the younger ones were pleasant, merry fellows, and good companions during my stay, though none of them could speak a word of English.
Cf. Ibis, 1866, pp. 13, 14.
