PERU 673 summits terminating in sharp peaks or serrated ridges ; the lower slopes are covered with dense vegetation ; and everywhere there is flowing water in cascades or rushing torrents, the condensed moisture of the trade-winds hurry ing back to the Atlantic. The Andes lose their majestic height to the northward ; and beyond Cerro Pasco the eastern chain sinks into a lower range between the Hual- laga and Ucayali. But throughout the length of Peru the three ranges are clearly denned, Seions For purposes of description the sierra of Peru may be conveni- oferra. ently divided into four sections, each embracing portions of all three ranges. The first, from the north, comprises the upper basins of the Marauon and the Huallaga, arid is 350 miles long by 100 broad. The second extends from the Knot of Cerro Pasco to Aya- cucho, about 200 miles, including the Lake of Chinchay-cocha and the basin of the river Xauxa. The third or Cuzco section extends 250 miles to the Knot of Vilcanota with the basins of the Pampas, Apurimac, Vilcainayu, and Paucartambo. The fourth is the basin of Lake Titicaca, about 150 miles in length and breadth. Lt!S. The Lake of Chinchay-cocha, in the second section, is 36 miles long by 7 miles broad, and 13,000 feet above the sea. Its marshy banks are overgrown with reeds and inhabited by numerous water fowl. From this lake the river Xauxa flows southwards through a populous valley for 150 miles before entering the forests. Lake Titicaca, in the fourth or most southern section, is about 80 miles long by 40 broad, the frontier of Bolivia passing across it diagonally. It is 12,545 feet above the sea by the railroad-levels. The drainage is carried off southwards by the river Desaguadero to the great swampy Lake of Aullagas in the south of Bolivia, while it is fed by streams from the Andes and the Central Cordillera. The largest is the Ramiz, formed by the two streams of Pucara and Azangaro, both coming from the Knot of Vilcanota to the north. The Suchiz, formed by the Cavanilla and Lam pa streams, falls into the lake on the north-west side, as well as the Yllpa and Ylave. Much of the water flows out by the Desaguadero, but a great proportion is taken up by evaporation in the dry season from April to September. The waters are gradually receding under the combined influence of evaporation and the sediment brought down by the rivers. The deepest part of the lake is on the Bolivian side ; in other parts it is very shoaly, and along the shore there are many acres of tall reeds. The principal islands are Titicaca and Coati (at the south end near the peninsula of Copacabana), Campanaria (9 miles from the east shore), Soto, and Esteves. There are two other lakes in the Collao, as the elevated region round Titicaca is called. Lake Arapa, a few miles from the northern shore of Titicaca, is 30 miles in circumference. Lake Umayo is on higher ground to the west ward. The lake in Peru which is third in size is that of Parina- cochas on the coast watershed, near the foot of the snowy peak of Sarasara. It is 12 miles long by 6 broad, but has never been visited and described by any modern traveller. The smaller alpine lakes, often forming the sources of rivers, are numerous. Hi rs of The great rivers of the sierra are the Maranon, rising in the Lake sira. of Lauricocha and flowing northward in a deep gorge between the Maritime and Central Cordilleras for 350 miles, when it forces its way through the mountains at the famous Pongo de Mauseriche and enters the Amazonian plain. The Huallaga rises north of Cerro Pasco, and, passing Huamico, flows northwards on the other side of the Central Cordillera for 300 miles. It breaks through the range at the Pongo de Cliasuta and falls into the Maranon. The other great rivers are tributaries of the Ucayali. The Pozuzu, flowing eastward from the Knot of Cerro Pasco, joins the Pachitea, which is the most northern important affluent of the Ucayali. The Xauxa, becoming afterwards the Mantaro, receives the drainage of Xauxa, Huancavelica, and Ayacucho. The southern valleys of this part of the sierra furnish streams which form the main rivers of Pampas, Pachachaca, and Apurimac. These, uniting with the Mantaro, form the Ene, and the Ene and Perene (which drains the province of Tambo) form the Tambo. The classic river of Vilcamayu rises on the Knot of Vilcanota, flows north through a lovely valley, receives the Yanatilde and Paucartambo on its right bank, and, uniting with the Tambo, forms the Ucayali. Most of these main streams flow through profound gorges in a tropical climate, while the upper slopes yield products of the temperate zone, and the plateaus above are cold and bleak, affording only pasture and the hardiest cereals. Si ran The great variety of elevation within the sierra produces vege- flu. tation belonging to every zone. There is a tropical flora in the deep gorges, higher up a sub-tropical, then a temperate, then a sub-arctic flora. In ascending from the coast-valleys there is first an arid range, where the great-branched cacti rear themselves up among the rocks. Farther inland, where the rains are more plenti ful, is the native home of the potato. Here also are other plants with edible roots the "oca" (Oxalis tuberosa), "ulluca" (Ullucus tuberosus), " massua " ( Tro2)ceolum hibcrosum), and " learco " (Polym- nia soncldfolia). Among the first wild shrubs and trees that are met with are the " chilca " (Baccharis Fcuillei], with a pretty yellow flower, the Mutisia acuminata, with beautiful red and orange flowers, several species of Scnecio, calceolarias, the Schinus Molle, with its graceful branches and bunches of red berries, and at higher elevations the " lambras " (Alnus acuminata), the "sauco" (Sambucus pcruviana), the "quenuar" (Buddleia incana), and the Polylepis raccmosa. The Buddleia, locally called " oliva silvestre," flourishes at a height of 12,000 feet round the shores of Lake Titicaca. The temperate valleys of the sierra yield fruits of many kinds. Those indigenous to the country are the delicious " chiri- moyas," "paltas" or alligator pears, the "paccay," a species of Inga, the "lucma," and the "granadilla" or fruit of the passion flower. Vineyards and sugar-cane yield crops in the warmer ravines ; the sub-tropical valleys are famous for splendid crops of maize ; wheat and barley thrive on the mountain slopes ; and at heights from 7000 to 13,000 feet there are crops of "quinua" (Cheno- podmm Quinua}. In the loftiest regions the pasture chiefly con sists of a coarse grass (Sfyja Ychu), of which the llamas eat the upper blades while the sheep browse on the tender shoots beneath. There are also two kinds of shrubby plants, a thorny Cfjmposita called " ccanlli " and another called " tola," which is a resinous Baccharis, and is used for fuel. The animals which specially belong to the Peruvian Andes are Fauna., the domestic llamas and alpacas and the wild vicunas. There are deer, called "taruco" (Cervus antiscnsis), the "viscacha,"a large rodent, a species of fox called " atoc " ; and the " puma " (Felis concolor) and "ucumari" or black bear with a white muzzle, when driven by hunger, wander into the loftier regions. The largest bird is the condor, and there is another bird of the vulture tribe, with a black and white wing feather, formerly used by the Yncas in their head-dress, called the "coraquenque " or "alcamari. " The " pito " is a brown speckled creeper which flutters about the rocks. There is a little bird, the size of a starling, with brown back striped with black, and white breast, which the Indians call " ynca- hualpa" ; it utters a monotonous sound at each hour of the night. A partridge called " yutu " frequents the long grass. On the lakes there is a very handsome goose, with white body and dark-green wings shading into violet, called "huachua," two kinds of ibis, a large gull (Larus serranus), frequenting the alpine lakes in flocks r flamingoes called "parihuana," ducks, and water-hens. Many pretty little finches fly about the maize-fields and fruit-gardens, and a little- green parakeet is met with as high as 12,000 feet above the sea. The third division of Peru is the region of the tropical Montana, forests, at the base of the Andes, and within the basin of the Amazons. It is traversed by great navigable rivers. The Maranon, having burst through the defile of the Pongo de Mauseriche, and the Huallaga through that of Chasuta, enter the forests and unite after separate courses of about 600 and 400 miles, the united flood then flowing eastward to the Brazilian frontier. After 150 miles it is joined by the Ucayali, a great navigable river with a course of 600 miles. The country between the Huallaga and the Ucayali, traversed by the eastern Cordillera, is called the Pampa del Sacramento. The forests drained by the Maranon, Huallaga, and Ucayali form the northern portion of the Peruvian montana. The southern half of the mon tana is watered by streams flowing from the Eastern Andes, which go to form the river Madre de Dios or Amaru-mayu, the principal branch of the river Beni, which falls into the Madeira. The region of the Peruvian montana, which is 800 miles long from the Maranon to the Bolivian frontier, is naturally divided into two sections, the sub tropical forests in the ravines and on the eastern slopes of the Andes and the dense tropical forests in the Amazonian plain. The sub-tropical section is important from the value of its products, and interesting from the grandeur and beauty of its scenery. Long spurs run off from the Andes, gradually decreasing in elevation, and it is sometimes a distance of 60 or 80 miles before they finally subside into the vast forest -covered plains of the Amazon basin. Numerous rivers flow through the valleys between these spurs, which are the native home of the quinine-yielding chinchona trees. The most valuable species, called C. Cali- saya, is found in the forests of Caravaya in south Peru and in those of Bolivia. The species between Caravaya and the head-Avaters of the Huallaga yield very little of the febrifuge alkaloid. But the forests of Huanuco and XVIII. 85
