Page:Encyclopædia Britannica, Ninth Edition, v. 5.djvu/645

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physical features.]
CHINA
631

p one

ing over a belt of country about 12 miles in width, struck the bed of the Ta-tsing River, and having forced their way into that narrow, clean cut channel, followed it to the sea. The result of this change has been that the old course of the river is dry, and that the muddy dun-coloured watershence the name Hwang-ho, or Yellow Riverafter permanently flooding a large tract of country, are now leading up to another grand catastrophe by destroying the banks of the new channel which they have found for themselves. Already the increased volume of water has added another obstruction to those before existing to the navigation of the river by destroying a large stone bridge of seven arches at Tse-hoheen, a town situated 210 miles from the mouth, the ruins of which have seriously impeded the course of the stream. But the Hwang-ho is of little value for navigating purposes. At its mouth lies a bar having at its deepest part about from 7 to 9 feet of water only; further up, about 3 miles below Tse-hoheen, there is a shoal extending right across its bed, at the deepest point of which there is about 11 feet of water, while in the passage at the extremity of the sunken bridge at Tse-hoheen there is a depth of only about 5 feet.

A far more valuable river in every way is the Yang-tsze Keang, which takes its rise in the Min Mountains of Tibet, and after a course of 2900 miles empties itself into the Yellow Sea in about 31° lat. In common with most of the large rivers of China, the Yang-tsze Keang is known by various names in different parts of its course. From its source in Tibet to Seu-chow Foo in Sze-chuen, it bears the name of Kin-sha Keang, or River of the Golden Sands. From Seu-chow Foo to Yang-chow Foo in Keang-soo, its volume has gained for it the title of Ta Keang, or the Great River; and from the ancient name of the district through which it thence passes, it is known for the remainder of its course as the Yang-tze Keang, or the Yang-tze River. Chinese geographers state that it has two sources, the more northerly of which gives birth to the Kang-chuh ah-lin at a point about 1600 le to the south-east of the source of the Yellow River; and to the more southerly one of the two the Na-ko-to-moo-tsing ah-lin, which rises on the south of the range, owes its existence. Both these streams twist and turn eastward for upwards of 200 le, when they unite and form one stream, which flows in an easterly and afterwards southerly course until it enters the Chinese province of Yun-nan at the Hwang-shing Pass, or Pass of Imperial Victory. It then turns northward into the province of Sze-chuen, and thence after receiving several important tributaries it takes an east-north-easterly course, until passing into Hoo-pih it dips south wards to the boundary of Hoo-nan in the neighbourhood of the Tung-ting Lake, the waters of which contribute largely to swell its volume. From this point it makes a curve northwards as far as Han-kow, receiving on the way the waters of the Han River. From Han-kow it bends its course again southwards to the Po-yang Lake. Thence through the province of Gan-hwuy it proceeds in a north-easterly direction until it reaches Nanking, 200 miles from the sea. Here the influence of the tide begins to be felt, and beyond this point it gradually widens into the great estuary by which it is connected with the ocean. The basin area of the Yang-tsze Keang is reckoned to be about 548,000 square miles, and it is navigable for steamers as far as I-chang, upwards of 1,200 miles from its mouth. Unlike the Yellow River, along the navigable portion of the Yang-tsze Keang are dotted many rich and populous cities, among which the chief are Nanking, Gan-king, Kew-keang, Han-kow, and I-chang. Beyond this last-named city the navigation becomes impossible for any but light native craft, by reason of the rapids which occur at frequent intervals in the deep mountain gorges through which the river runs beteen Kwai-chow and I-chang.

Next in importance to the Yang-tsze Keang as a water highway is the Yun-ho, or, as it is generally known in Europe, the Grand Canal. This magnificent artificial river reaches from Hang-chow Foo in the province of Che-keang to Tien-tsin in Chih-li, where it unites with the Peiho, and thus may be said to extend to Tung-chow in the neighbourhood of Peking. After leaving Hang-chow it passes round the eastern border of the Tai-hoo, or Great Lake, surrounding in its course the beautiful city of Soo-chow, and then trends in a generally north-westerly direction through the fertile districts of Keang-soo as far as Chin-keang on the Yang-tsze Keang. Mr Ney Elias, who in 1868 travelled along the Grand Canal from Chin-keang to the new course of the Yellow River, thus describes the characteristics of this portion of its course:—


The Grand Canal between Chin-keang and Tsin-keang-pu, or in other words, between the Yang-tsze and the old bed of the Yellow River, . . . is everywhere in good repair, and the adjacent country well irrigated, and apparently in a thriving state, both as regards cultivation, and, to judge by the aspect of the towns on and near its banks, as regards trade also. After crossing the old Yellow River, however, a part of the canal somewhat less known is reached, and the flourishing condition of the country is no longer noticeable; on the contrary, for a distance of about 150 miles, though the canal itself is in tolerably good working order, the country in its vicinity has an arid, sterile appearance, and is but thinly populated. There are few towns or villages, and some there are seem neither populous nor busy, though they are not in ruins, and bear but few traces of the rebellion. . . . The canal, which at one time was so deep that at many places the level of the water was above that of the adjacent country, is now everywhere considerably below it, rendering irrigation at even a short distance from its banks, without mechanical appliances, almost an impossibility; even the dry bed of the Loma Lake is scarcely cultivated on account of its elevation above the level of the canal, though it is only separated from it in some parts by a bank of a few yards in width. It is true that this lake appears never to have been more than a shallow flood lagoon, nevertheless it was some feet below the general level of the country, and was connected with the canal by means of water-courses and sluice gates; and if this is difficult to irrigate how much more so must be the country above and beyond it! This 150 miles being passed over, the Wai Shan (sometimes called Yu Shan) Lake is reached at a small village, called Han-chuang-cha. This is the most southern of a chain of lakes or rather lagoons, which stretch from far to the south of Han-chuang-cha (I believe from near Su-chan-fu on the old Yellow River) to within a few miles of Tse-ning-chow, and which constitute the only important feeder of the Grand Canal to the southward. In the summer they merge one into the other, and form a continuous sheet of water, though very shallow in parts. In winter, when the water is low, these shallow parts are mere morasses, which divide the sheet into three or four separate lagoons. In former days the canal ran in some places by the side of these lagoons, and in others through portions of them, but being everywhere embanked on both sides, it was only dependent upon them for its supply of water, the canal itself forming an unobstructed means of communication through the year. Of late years, however, this section of the canal has been allowed to go to ruin, and those portions only are used which run through the morasses existing in the dry season, the lagoons themselves forming elsewhere the only channel for navigation. Near the northern limit of these lagoons stands the city of Tse-ning-chow; the first place of any importance on the canal north of Tsin-kiang-pu; it is said to be a place of considerable trade in ordinary times. . . . Still proceeding northward, a distance from Tse-ning-chow of about 25 miles, the summit level of the canal is reached near a small town called Nan Wang. It is here that the River Wen falls into the canal, a portion of its waters flowing to the south, and the rest to the north, precisely as described by Staunton and other writers. . . . About 30 miles beyond Nan Wang we come to the new Yellow River, the canal for that distance being extremely narrow and shallow—a mere ditch in fact,—running between embankments large enough to confine a stream of infinitely greater volume. The banks along nearly the whole of the Grand Canal between the old and the new bed of the Yellow River, excepting those portions bordering on or traversing the lagoons, are surrounded by earthen walls crenellated after the fashion of city walls, behind which are stockades at intervals of every few miles. All this work has the appearance of being recently constructed, though in many places it is already being broken up by the country people to make room for cultivation, for they can ill afford to lose that strip of land immediately adjacent to and irrigated by the canal. The villages