35—VARIETIES OF THE CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
For Ducks.—Prepare the sauce as above, adding to it (for the prescribed quantity) one-half pint of duck fumet obtained from the carcases and remains of roast duckling, and finish it, away from the fire, with the juice of four oranges and a heaped tablespoonful of orange rind, cut finely. Julienne-fashion, and scalded for five minutes.
For Feathered Game.—Treat the Chaud-Froid sauce as indicated in No. 34, adding one-half pint of the fumet of the game constituting the dish in order to lend it that game's characteristic taste. Observe the same precaution for the cooling.
For Fish.—Proceed as in No. 34, but (1) substitute the Espagnole of fish for the half glaze; (2) intensify the first Espagnole with one-half pint of very clear fish essence; (3) use Lenten jelly instead of meat jelly.
Remarks upon the Use of Chaud-Froid Sauces.—The chaud-froid sauce may be prepared beforehand, and when it is wanted it need only be gently melted without heating it in the least. It ought simply to be made sufficiently liquid to give a good coating to substances immersed in it.
36—DEVILLED SAUCE
Put in a vegetable pan two oz. of sliced shallots and one-third pint of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, add one-half pint of half-glaze, reduce to two-thirds, season strongly with cayenne pepper, and strain through muslin. This sauce may be served with grilled fowls or pigeons. It also forms an excellent accompaniment to re-dished meat which needs a spicy sauce.
37—"ESCOFFIER" DEVILLED SAUCE
This sauce, which may be bought ready-made, is admirably fitted to accompany grilled fish and grills in general. In order to make it ready, all that is needed is to add its own volume of fresh butter to it, the latter being previously well softened so as to ensure its perfect mixture with the sauce.
38—GENEVOISE SAUCE
Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan; insert one lb. of Mire-poix (No. 228) without bacon. Slightly brown, add two lbs. of head of salmon and remains or bones of fish, and stew with lid on for twenty minutes. Let the stewpan lean slightly to
