Page:Face to Face With the Mexicans.djvu/26

CHAPTER IV.

THE LOAN OF A MOZO AND A TRIP TO PALOMAS.

Successive departures of successive mozos—Cosme, our borrowed mozo—We set out for Palomas—Cosme in the van—His John Gilpin ride Palomas—A typical Mexican home—A surgical operation—Inquisitive hospitality—Inherent courtesy—A Mexican dinner—Embroidery and fancy work—The "Pass of the Doves"—Our ride home—Poor Cosme!—He takes a mournful departure—His pious adios

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CHAPTER V.

FROM BORDER TO CAPITAL ALONG THE MEXICAN CENTRAL.

The Mexican "All aboard!"—El Paso and Paso del Norte—Chihuahua—Santa Rosalia, its manners and customs—Dr. Tarver and family—Strange notices in a meson—Stations and scenery along the road—Zacatecas—Mines and mining—Aguas Calientes—Historic associations—National Palace—Public bathing of the common people—Bridge at Encarnacion—Queretaro—Maximilian's monument—Other towns along the road—Memorial crosses and stone-heaps—Nochistongo Pass—Arrival at Mexico City—Hotel San Carlos—The all-important camarista

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CHAPTER VI.

TENOCHTITLAN—THE AZTEC CAPITAL.

The founding of the city—Invasion by the Spaniards—The three great causeways—The Spaniards' defeat—"Noche triste"—Atzcapotzalco—Mexico City—The Zocalo—Street—"Street of the Sad Indian"—Street cars—Pulque shops—Inundations and earthquakes—The Rome of America—Churches—Monuments—Industrial art and public schools—Public gardens—Markets—Charitable institutions—Pawn-shops—Theaters—Dry-goods stores—House-renting—Mexican flora—Art gallery and museum—The Viga Canal—Chapultepec—Climate—The Alameda—Funerals—Valley of Mexico—Popocatapetl—Iztaccihuatl

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CHAPTER VII.

THE MEXICANS IN THEIR HOMES.

Characteristics—Sincerity and faithfulness in friendship—Hospitality—How to meet them—Manners and customs—Middle class—Forms of greeting—Etiquette—Gesticulations—Family ties—Their charity and benevolence—Religion—Hospitality—Household rrangements—The Palacio mansion—Music—Poetry—Manners of