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Page:First Footsteps in East Africa, 1894 - Volume 1.djvu/184

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from my mule, and, sitting down, we were stung by the large black ants which infest these hills. [13] About half way up, we passed two cairns, and added to them our mite like good Somal. After two hours of hard work the summit of this primitive pass was attained, and sixty minutes more saw us on the plateau above the hills,--the second zone of East Africa. Behind us lay the plains, of which we vainly sought a view: the broken ground at the foot of the mountains is broad, and mists veiled the reeking expanse of the low country. [14] The plateau in front of us was a wide extent of rolling ground, rising slightly towards the west; its colour was brown with a threadbare coat of verdure, and at the bottom of each rugged slope ran a stony water-course trending from south-west to north-east. The mass of tangled aloes, ragged thorn, and prim-looking poison trees, [15] must once have been

populous; tombs and houses of the early Moslems covered with ruins the hills and ridges. About noon, we arrived at a spot called the Kafir's Grave. It is a square enceinte of rude stones about one

hundred yards each side; and legends say that one Misr, a Galla chief, when dying, ordered the place to be filled seven times with she-camels destined for his Ahan or funeral feast. This is the fourth stage upon the direct

road from Zayla to Harar: we had wasted ten days, and the want of grass and water made us anxious about our animals. The camels could scarcely walk, and my mule's spine rose high beneath the Arab pad:--such are

the effects of Jilal [16], the worst of travelling seasons in Eastern Africa.