Page:First Footsteps in East Africa, 1894 - Volume 1.djvu/69

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II.—Life in Zayla.
23

the morning, he kisses his hand, and receives a salute upon the forehead. He aspires to the government of Zayla, and looks forward more reasonably than the Hajj to the day when the possession of Berberah will pour gold into his coffers. He shows none of his father's "softness": he advocates the bastinado, and, to keep his people at a distance, he has married an Arab wife, who allows no adult to enter the doors. The Somal, Spaniard-like, remark, "He is one of ourselves, though a little richer"; but when times change and luck returns, they are not unlikely to find themselves mistaken.

Amongst other visitors, we have the Amir al-Bahr, or Port Captain, and the Nakib al-Askar (Commandant de place), Mohammed Umar al-Hamumi. This is one of those Hazramaut adventurers so common in all the countries bordering upon Arabia: they are the Swiss of the East, a people equally brave and hardy, frugal and faithful, as long as pay is regular. Feared by the soft Indians and Africans for their hardness and determination, the common proverb concerning them is, "If you meet a viper and a Hazrami, spare the viper." Natives of a poor and rugged region, they wander far and wide, preferring every country to their own; and it is generally said that the sun rises not upon a land that does not contain a man from Hazramaut.[1] This commander of an army of forty men[2] often read out to us from the Kitab al-Anwar (the

  1. It is related that a Hazrami, flying from his fellow-countrymen, reached a town upon the confines of China. He was about to take refuge in a mosque, but entering, he stumbled over the threshold. "Ya Amud al-Din"—"O Pillar of the Faith!" exclaimed a voice from the darkness, calling upon the patron saint of Hazramaut to save a Moslem from falling. "May the Pillar of the Faith break thy head!" exclaimed the unpatriotic traveller, at once rising to resume his vain peregrinations.
  2. Mercenaries from Mocha, Hazramaut, and Bir Hamid, near Aden: they are armed with matchlock, sword, and dagger; and each receives from the governor a monthly stipend of two dollars and a half.