CONTENTS Preface vii List of Illustrations xiii List of Works of Reference xxvii List of Abbreviations xxxii L Once again Eastward Ho! 1 U. From the Black Sea to the Caspian .... 12 m. Baku, the City of Oil Wells . . . . . .25 rV. The Oil-Fields and the Fire-Temple of Baku . . 39 V. Off to Derbent 58 VI. On the Caspian to Persia 81 VIL Along the Highway to the Shah's Capital . . 90 VIII. Teheran and a Newer Persia 94 IX. On the Track of Alexander the Great . . . 115 X. Through Places passed on Alexander's Route . . 139 XI. Through the Mountain Pass of Ahuan . . . 153 XU. Damghan and its Environs 161 XIIL Excursions from Damghan to Frat and Tak . . 176 XIV. Among Historic Sites 189 XV. Over the Ancient Battle-Ground of the Wars between Iran and Turan 202 XVI. On the Road to Nishapur 218 XVII. NiSHAPUR, the Home of Omar Khayyam . . . 229 XVHL The Tomb of Omar Khayyam 240 XIX. Historical Sketch of Nishapur 246 XX. Mashad, the Holy City of Persia 261 zi