he who penetrates through its crowded lanes is well rewarded by the sight of its ancient synagogues and interesting burial-ground. The latter presents an extraordinary appearance, so crowded with monuments, and raised by the successive additions of the “dust” of many generations, several feet above the level of the adjoining ground. Some of the stones are said to date from the fifth century. Some bear the lion of Judah, and some the two hands uplifted in the attitude of blessing, indicating that those interred below belong to the priestly house of Aaron.
But with all its attractions, and I have not told a fraction of them, I would not care to live in Prague. The greater part of the city is unhealthy in the extreme, the death-rate being among the highest in Europe; while house rents are enormously dear. And then the parental attentions of the Government are painfully intrusive. With us births, deaths, and marriages are the only events in our social life which we must report to the authorities, unless, indeed, under recent legislation, we must report also cases of epidemic illness. But in Austria the number of things one is expected to report to the police is perplexingly large. Thus you are bound to inform the police of all the inmates of your house. You cannot engage a servant-girl without registering the fact at the police-office; and when you part with her, you must again attend at the police office, and record the why and the wherefore. This ground of complaint diminishing, however, for a few years ago people were imprisoned for wearing their hair longer than the police regulation allowed, and a beard made you a “suspect.” The confiscation of newspapers, or the dispersal of a public meeting, is still a common thing. Such events are expected occasionally as matter of course.
Most British travellers will probably approach Bohemia from the north. The journey from Dresden to Prague is accomplished by rail in about six hours, the first two being occupied in the passage of the exquisite scenery of the Saxon Switzerland. If, however, one has time, and wishes thoroughly to enjoy this charming district, he would do well to take the steamer from Dresden to Leitmeritz, or, at least to Aussig. Going up stream the journey takes a long day, involving an
