and exceeds every previous expectation. Again
and again did our travellers return, and always
discovered some fresh beauties. The governor re-
sides in a modernised comer of the building, not
far from the mosque, which has suffered from the
bad taste of the Christian spoilers. He is not a
good specimen of Spanish courtesy, as, in spite of
letters of introduction from the highest quarters,
it was with very great difficulty that our part}'^
were admitted to see anything beyond the por-
tions of the building open to the general public.
At last, however, he condescended to find the keys
of the Tower of the Infantas, once the residence
of the Moorish princesses whose tragical fate is so
touchingly recorded by Washington Irving. It
is a beautifiil little cage, overlooking the ravine,
with its fine aqueduct below, and rich in the
delicate moresque carving of both ceilings and
walls. Afterwards, crossing a garden, they came to
the gate by which Boabdil left his palace for the
last time, and which was afterwards, by his special
request, waUed up. The tower at this comer
was mined and destroyed by the French. Our
party then descended to a little mosque lately
etTor. Cette ricliesse, ces teintes vives, sont visibles encore partout. Enfin, mon ami, ce n'est point tin palais ceci : c'est la ville d'nn enchantenr ! '