Page:Incidents of travel in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatan.djvu/19

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CONTENTS.
ix


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Party to Mixco—A Scene of pleasure—Procession in Honour fo the Patron Saint of Mixco—Fireworks—A Bombardment—Smoking Cigars—A Night-Brawl—Suffering and Sorrow—A Cockfight—A Walk in the Suburbs—Sunday Amusement—Return to the City.153

Excursion to La Antigua and the Pacific Ocean— San Lucas—Mountain Scenery—El Rio Pensativo—La Antigua— Account of its Destruction—An Octogenarian—The Cathedral— San Juan Obispo—Santa Maria—Volcano de Agua—Ascent of the Mountain—The Crater—A lofty Meeting-place—The Descent—Return to La Antigua—Cultivation of Cochineal—Classic Ground—Ciudad Vieja—Its Foundation—Visit from Indians—Departure from Ciudad Vieja—First Sight of the Pacific—Alotenango—Volcan de Fuego—Escuintla—Sunset Scene—Masagua—Port of Istapa—Arrival at the Pacific.161

The Return—Hunt for a Mule—Overo—Masagua—Escuintla—Falls of San Pedro Martyr—Michatoyal River—Village of San Pedro—A Major-Domo—San Cristoval—Amatitan—A roving American—Entry into Guatimala—Letter from Mr. Catherwood—Christmas Eve —Arrival of Mr. Catherwood—Plaza de Toros—A Bullfight—The Theatre—Official Business—The Aristocracy of Guatimala—State of the country—New Year's Day—Ferocity of Party.178

Hunt for a Government—Diplomatic Difficulties—Departure from Guatimala—Lake of Amatitan—Attack of Fever and Ague—Overo—Istapa—A French Merchant Ship—Port of Acajutla—Illness—Zonzonate—The Government found—Visit to the Volcano of Izalco—Course of the Eruptions—Descent from the Volcano189

Sickness and Mutiny—Illness of Captain Jay— Critical Situation—Rough Nursing— Dolphins—Succession of Volcanoes—Gulf of Nicoya—Harbour of Caldera—Another Patient— Hacienda of San Felipe—Mountain of Aguacate—"Zillenthal Patent Self-Acting Cold Amalganation Machine"—Gold Mines—View from the Mountain-top 199

La Garita—Alajuela—A friendly People—Heredia—Rio Segundo—Coffee Plantations of San Jose—The Sacrament for the Dying—A happy Meeting—Travelling Embarrassments— Quarters in a Convent—Señor Carillo, Chief of State—Vicissitudes of Fortune—Visit to Cartago—Tres Rios—An unexpected Meeting—Ascent of the Volcano of Cartago—The Crater—View of the two Seas—Descent—Stroll through Cartago—A Burial— Another Attack of Fever and Ague—A Vagabond—Cultivation of Coffee 208

Departure for Guatimala—Esparza—Town of Costa Rica—The Barranca—Wild Scenery—Hacienda of Aranjuez—River Lagartos—Cerros of Collito—Herds of Deer—Santa Rosa—Don Juan José Bonilla—An Earthquake—A Cattle Farm—Bagases—Guanacaste—An agreeable Welcome—Belle of Guanacaste—Pleasant Lodgings—Cordilleras—Volcanoes of Rincon and Orosi—Hacienda of San Teresa—Sunset View—The Pacific again.220