In our walks we met with many houses in the valleys that seemed to be quite deserted. The people lived on the ridges of hills in very slightly-built houses, or rather sheds. For what reason they have left the valleys we can only guess, maybe for air, but if so they purchase that convenience at a dear rate, as all their fishing tackle and lobster pots, of which they have many, must be brought up with no small labour.
We saw also an extraordinary natural curiosity. In pursuing a valley bounded on each side by steep hills, we suddenly saw a most noble arch or cavern through the face of a rock leading directly to the sea, so that through it we had not only a view of the bay and hills on the other side, but an opportunity of imagining a ship or any other grand object opposite to it. It was certainly the most magnificent surprise I have ever met with; so much is pure nature superior to art in these cases. I have seen such places made by art, where from an inland view you were led through an arch 6 feet wide, and 7 feet high, to a prospect of the sea; but here was an arch 25 yards in length, 9 in breadth, and at least 15 in height.
In the evening we returned to the watering-place, in order to go on board with our treasure of plants, birds, etc., but were prevented by an old man who detained us some time in showing us their exercises with arms, lances, and patoo patoos. The lance is made of a hard wood, from 10 to 14 feet long, and very sharp at the ends. A stick was set up as an enemy; to this he advanced with a most furious aspect, brandishing his lance, which he held with great firmness; after some time he ran at the stick, and, supposing it a man run through the body, immediately fell upon the upper end of it, dealing it most merciless blows with his patoo patoo, any one of which would have probably split most skulls. From this I should conclude that they give no quarter.
25th. Went ashore this morning and renewed our search for plants, etc., with great success. In the meantime Tupia, who stayed with the waterers, had much conver-
