subdivided, the body of its waters being known as the river Lek, which flows into the Maes, while the Rhine proper dwindles into an insignificant stream, and dies away among the canals and sands near Leyden.
On the southerly side, then, of the island of Voorn, situated as I have described it, stands the town of Hellevöetsluys. It is built on the banks of a large sluice, and is carried out by means of piers into the sea; thus forming a well-constructed and capacious harbor, large enough to contain the whole navy of the country, and having all the magazines, dock-yards, and fortifications, requisite for a great naval dépôt. Nothing could be more peculiar than the first aspect of the buildings. Constructed of very small bricks, profusely painted in bright colors, yellow, green, and white, having the gable-end contiguous to the street, and running up into acutely peaked roofs, covered with fluted tiles, they presented a whole, as whimsical as it was novel to the eye of a stranger. The large juicy strawberries and cherries, and the tender and delicate vegetables, of various kinds, for the table, which we found here, with the large white loaves of sweet and pure wheat, and the richly-flavored butter and milk, afforded a favorable idea of the quality of those productions, for which Holland is famed. Among the busy groups which thronged the streets, the women, in their trim lace caps and aprons, were not the least numerous, nor the least industrious. Most of the small traffic in the town seemed to be carried on by them; and indeed, where the business was such as to require the presence and aid of men, as in the shops for the sale of butcher's meat, a woman stood by to keep the accounts, and to give change from the well-stored pockets in front of her apron. The large trowsers and square contour of the sailors, although much reduced from the standard amplitude of the olden time, were yet equally characteristic of all we imagine of the Dutch.
The most direct route from this place to Rotterdam, is across the island of Voorn to the Briel, a small town celebrated in history as the post where the patriots made their first stand against the Spaniards, and also as the birth-place of the admirals Van Tromp and Witte de Witte. But the mouth of the Maes being obstructed by sand, will not admit of the passage of vessels of large draught, which are compelled to adopt a very circuitous course, passing up Hollands Diep, and thence, by the way of Dort, to Rotterdam. A ship-canal was commenced, and nearly completed, to take vessels directly across the island of Voorn into the Maes; but we were under the necessity of adopting the old route.
Preparatory to again setting sail, we were boarded by the health-officers and the officers of the customs. The ridiculous and idle ceremonies attending the visit of the health-officers, are a disgrace to the government and the country by which they are tolerated. When the quarantine-boat came alongside, the ship's papers were taken into the boat with tongs, and after being slightly sprinkled with vinegar, were returned in the same way. The whole ship's company were then required to exhibit evidence of their being in good health, by coming upon deck, and walking to the side of the vessel, so as to be seen by the physician, who did not so much as leave his boat, and who joined with us in a hearty laugh at this legal farce, which answers
