CHAPTER XII.
BAALBEC AND LEBANON.
Departure from Damascus — The Fountains of the Pharpar — Pass of the Anti-Lebanon — Adventure with the Druses — The Range of Lebanon — The Demon of Hasheesh departs — Impressions of Baalbec — The Temple of the Sun — Titanic Masonry — The Ruined Mosque — Camp on Lebanon — Rascality of the Guide — The Summit of Lebanon — The Sacred Cedars — The Christians of Lebanon — An Afternoon in Eden — Rugged Travel — We Reach the Coast — Return to Beyrout.
"Peor and Baälim
Forsake their temples dim."
Milton.
"The cedars wave on Lebanon,
But Judah's statelier maids are gone."
Byron.
Beyrout, Thursday, May 27, 1852.
After a stay of eight days in Damascus, we called our men, Dervish and Mustapha, again into requisition, loaded our enthusiastic mules, and mounted our despairing horses. There were two other parties on the way to Baalbec — an English gentleman and lady, and a solitary Englishman, so that our united forces made an imposing caravan. There is always a custom-house examination, not on entering, but on issuing from an Oriental city, but travellers can avoid it by procuring the company of a Consular Janissary as far as the gate. Mr. Wood, the British Consul, lent us one of his officers for the
