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Contents
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CHAPTER XI The hills of Cintra—The Palace of Pena—An ancient Moorish Castle—The ruins of the mosque—Vasco da Gama's return—Unrivalled prospect from the dome of the palace—Park and villas or the slopes of the hills—São Pedro village—The historic villa of Ramalhão—The Prison—Soldiers on guard—The market—The peasants—Bullock teams and mules—Mafra—Its Church, Monastery and Palace—Joāo V and his vow—The famous bells—The library. 168 CHAPTER XII Valley of the Tagus—Santarem—Thomar—Roman Relics—Santa Irene—The River Nabão—Castle and Church of the Knights Templars—Gualdim Paes—The Moors—Prince Henry the Navigator—Convent of Christ—The famous Chapter House—The Cloisters—Torres Vedras—Historic Lines of fortification. 182 CHAPTER XIII Vallado—The Valley of the Alcoa—A hermitage dating from 1182—The Cistercian Abbey of Alcobaça—Alfonso Henriques, the founder—Peter I and Ignez de Castro—The cloisters—King Diniz—The Sala dos Reis—The Abbey sacked by the French—Batalha, the Battle Abbey of Portugal—The famous battlefield of August 14, 1385—The baker's wife, a Portuguese Jeanne d'Arc—Philippa of Lancaster—English builders—The Capellas Imperfeitas—Architectural comparisons. 199 CHAPTER XIV Calippo of the Romans—A ruined castle of King Diniz—The first printing press in Portugal—A river sung by poets—Coimbra—The beauty of its situation—The University—The students—Upper and lower towns—The River of the Muses—The place of the Inquisition—The Old Cathedral—The Monastery of Santa Cruz—Quinta das Lagrimas. 217 CHAPTER XV Bussaco—A national gift to a Crown Prince—Fertility of vegetation—The Cintra of the North—The vine country—English
