Major Nixon's, the march was resumed. After visiting the ruins of the celebrated stronghold of Chittore, M. Rousselet entered the province of Ajmere, "almost the only portion of Rajpootan proper that the English possess," and on the 24th March reached the military station of Nusserabad, which then presented a miserable appearance, owing to the destruction effected by the rebels in 1857. Some days, however, were passed there very pleasantly, and M. Rousselet had "one more proof that there are few countries where travellers are treated with more disinterested courtesy and kindness than in the English cantonments of India." The next halt was at Ajmere, which town was approached through a country covered with flowers, and with fields of roses producing the famous attar. which reminded M. Rousselet strongly of the outskirts of Grasse or Nice. He was exceedingly well received by a Jaïn banker to whom Major Nixon had introduced him, and was grateful for the kindness shown, for he writes, "Let people accuse the Hindus of not understanding hospitality! It may be very true of the proud Baboo from the banks of the Ganges, or the superstitious Deckanees, who would let you die rather than receive you into their home, but assuredly not of the inhabitants of noble Rajesthan, whether they be Rajpoots, merchants, or peasants." And again, referring to a visit just paid to the Ajmere political officer. Major Davidson, he writes—"I found him as agreeable and kind as all the English residents with whom I had had any intercourse." M. Rousselet remained during ten days at Ajmere, which is, he says, "the Frankfort of Rajesthan, and its numerous Rothschilds have rivalled each other in enriching it with superb monuments." To M. Rousselet the principal attraction of Ajmere was the mosque of Araïdeen-ka-Jhopra, which is, he thinks, one of the most remarkable monuments in India. He found nowhere anything more beautiful than the roof of its long hall, and its mass of superb sculpture, which, reproduced in all its details, would "form such an album of Indian ornamentation as has never existed." It is very remarkable that this mosque, which is one of the finest buildings erected by the Mahomedans, should contain some of the best specimens of Jaïn architecture of the earliest period. We give M. Rousselet's explanation of this:—
When the Mahomedans first invaded India, they only thought of pillaging and destroying, without for a moment considering how they were to replace the magnificence they were overturning. But when they had become masters of the country, and wished to establish themselves firmly in it, their first emperors hastened to build temples to the true God, and, having no architects, were obliged to intrust the work to the Hindus. The palaces of the ancient kings, and the wonderful temples of their predecessors, furnished them with an inexhaustible supply of materials. They only had, therefore, to destroy the idols, make a few characteristic alterations, and give the final stamp to the mosque by adding a front of pointed arches. One may say that such was the origin of this grand style of architecture, which some call Indo-Saracen, and to which India owes some of its most marvellous productions.
At the sacred lake of Poshkur M. Rousselet remained for a few days. Here the shores are covered with temples and cenotaphs, built long ago by the princely families of India, forming, in a triple circle round the lake, a picturesque collection of buildings in various styles, and "quite unique of its kind." But the glory of the place has departed. An old priest told M. Rousselet, "This kind of thing does not answer in these days; one barely succeeds in getting a livelihood, and the valley is in the hands of infidels." A long stay was made at Jeypoor, whence the valley of Ambîr, the ancient capital, and the great salt lake of Sambher, fifty miles in circumference, were visited. In the beginning of October a farewell visit was paid to the Jeypoor chief, of whose kindness and hospitality M. Rousselet writes in very high terms; and a few days later Ulwur was reached. During M. Rousselet's visit the rao of Ulwur was summoned to attend a grand durbar to be held by the viceroy of India at Agra, and M. Rousselet thankfully accepted the rao's invitation to accompany him thither. At the end of October they started, accompanied by the rao's court and an escort of three thousand men. M. Rousselet's party were liberally supplied by the rao with every requisite, and with numerous luxuries; they had a separate camp, numerous servants, horses, etc., placed at their disposal, and the style of their table may be inferred from the following statement: "Baskets of Bordeaux, champagne, hock, etc., followed us; and as the jolting of the carts, or the swaying motion of the camels, might have injured these precious liquours, they were carefully suspended to long bamboos, and carried by banghy coolies." A short stay was made at the capital of the Jât principality of
