War and Revolution in Asiatic Russia
a hot, dusty journey across the desert. An endless maze of mud walls surrounded the houses. Before several doors dust-covered sentries lounged, while down the narrow streets Cossacks on shaggy ponies dashed on errands. By the wall surrounding a leafy orchard, on the outskirts of the village, I halted and handed in my papers to the sentry. In a few minutes I was enjoying the shade of the apricot-trees, while a sparkling stream watered the dusty grass at my feet. In the orchard stood a round felt tent, like a great bee-hive, which I recognized at once as the abode of a Central Asian nomad, a Tartar or Turkoman from Trans-Caspia. But instead of a Mongol face in a long cloak and shaggy cap, I beheld the face and uniform of General Chernozubof, sitting at the edge of his tent, glancing over the telegrams and orders for the day. I was at once cordially welcome in this ingenious army head-quarters, so much in keeping with its Asiatic surroundings. We were soon joined by the Cossack commander, and the generals related to me with the aid of a map the recent operations of their troops against the Khurds and Turks. A cup of Russian tea was served, as we squatted on the ground; and before I took my leave I was furnished with passes to enable me to travel in the region occupied by the Russian army in North-western Persia.
On August 25th I left the Salmas plain for Urumiah, passing down the western shore of the lake. In the hills to the east of the plain, a little off the road, I went to see a bas-relief carved in the rock. A king is receiving two persons, who are apparently requesting something from him. In view of the fact that north of this point in the plain of Salmas and Khoy there are old Armenian churches,
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