War and Revolution in Asiatic Russia
Echmiadzin. I passed Talish and Talin on the way, following roughly the line taken by Mr. Lynch, as described in the first volume of his "Armenia." From Talish I made a side excursion for two days to the high country that surrounds Mount Alagyoz. I reached an encampment of Yezidis late in the evening, and next day set out with a native to ascend the snow slopes of the extinct volcano. I reached one of the three peaks at midday, but the mist came up and obscured the view. On the way down, however, it lifted, and I obtained a magnificent view of the volcanic plateau of Kars, the low-lands of the Araxes, and Mount Ararat, capped with eternal snow and sheathed in mystery. In the far distance to the south lay the South Armenian plateau and the basin of Lake Van, amid which the snowy cone of Mount Zipandar was just discernible. Amid this scenery of solemn grandeur I could not help reflecting how, while Nature was at peace, contemplating and regenerating, mankind was now engaged in murdering and destroying. But perhaps, after all, the war had no greater significance than the thunderstorm which just then was passing over the valley of the Araxes below me. It thundered and looked terrible for a while; then slowly dispersed. The sun came out, and the world went on as before.
I found that there are three villages and summer encampments of Yezidis on the slopes of Mount Alagyos. While staying with them I tried to find out about their beliefs, for I knew that they were supposed to reverence the Devil, whom they regard as a fallen angel. All I could discover was that they dress and speak like Khurds, but are less friendly to them than to the Christians.
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