Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/181

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THE VALLEY OF THE ARABAH, AND WESTERN PALESTINE.
145

were gladdened by the sight of the doctor, accompanied by Mr. Schapira, making their way towards the camp. A wave from Mr. Schapira's hand was the first intimation of our release, and a telegram from Lord Dufferin was handed to me intimating the immediate prospect of this event. This I read out, and a cheer for his lordship burst forth from all the party. I immediately telegraphed our thanks, and also expressed to Mr. Schapira our gratitude for his friendly offices. Orders were given to prepare our horses for a ramble through and around Gaza, and my son returned to the city in company with the doctor, Mr. Schapira, and Bernhard Heilpern, to square up accounts—a most unpleasant transaction, as it afterwards proved.[1]

On Sunday, 6th January, after prayers in the tent, we left our camp at Gaza, in the forenoon, so as to reach El Medjet by the evening, on our way to Jaffa. Winding through the hedgerows of prickly pear, we entered an extensive forest of very ancient olive-trees, some of great size and girth, and some of which may have been at least a thousand years old. All along our way on the right the land was extensively cultivated, and numerous teams of oxen or camels were turning up the fallow ground. On the left, however, a different scene presented itself. The high sand-hills, under which we had camped at Gaza, continued all along, advancing inland or retreating towards the coast, but on the whole a continuous feature all along the sea-board of Philistia.[2] These enormous accumulations of fine sand, being driven by the westerly winds, are constantly advancing towards the east; swallowing up lands, gardens, farms, and even villages, in their resistless progress. They thus constitute a serious source of danger, and a constant menace to such towns as Gaza, El Jora, Ascalon (now partly buried in sand), Esdùd, and Yazûr, which are situated near their borders. It is well known, in fact, that ruins of the ancient Gaza are now lying buried beneath the sandhills;

  1. The early release of our party proved a great disappointment to the doctor, who, notwithstanding his attentions above stated, really expected to make a very handsome thing out of us—five Englishmen. Owing, however, to Mr. Schapira's interference we were not allowed to pay more than was legally due, amounting to 53½ dollars, the sum originally demanded being 20 dollars for each of the five travellers, and 10 to 15 dollars for each of the attendants and muleteers. They also wanted us to pay for the use of our own tents, and for the custody of our baggage which we had in the camp!
  2. The sandhills are clearly marked on the Ordnance Map of Western Palestine.