elaborate farewells were taken, and we were left to our well-earned rest.
The sun was blazing through the shutters when a tentative rapping at the windows aroused us. Emerging from our sleeping bags, we opened the door and found breakfast awaiting us in the verandah. The guest-house was beautifully situated, well away from the village, and in an open, park-like country. Splendid trees and rippling water-courses were all around us, whilst above towered the great white pyramid of Tetnuld. In the other direction the rocky crest of Ush-ba just showed above the lower ridges. The flickering sunlight through the leaves suggested a delicious feeling of freshness and home, which was further accentuated by a plimge in a neighbouring stream. I then joined Zurfluh in his attention to the good things supplied by our host.
Our quarters were so peculiarly tempting that after breakfast we despatched the Tartar to purchase chicken, bread, eggs, potatoes, and such other luxuries as the resources of Mujal might afford. Meanwhile a native, knowing a few words of French, appeared and told us of the wonders of Ush-ba and the wealth of the Ingur valley. However, our plan was to cross to Chegem, so we deputed our friend to engage two porters to take us to the recognised camp for the Twiber pass.
Two years later I walked and rode along the
