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CONTENTS.
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| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| Panama—Island of Tobago—A boat comes for us—Negro porters—Succeed in collecting my trunks—What is seen on the road—The old town—Old Jesuit college—Ruins, ruins—The cathedral—The streets—Aspinwall Hotel—Promenade on the ramparts—The Invincibles and their uniform—A concert by subscription—Cottage piano, a hybrid—The climate—The president of the State—His mother an old negress—His father, bishop of Panama—A pretty girl, daughter of the priest—The French consul, Mr. De Y Ceramic art of the Indians from Chiriqui—Golden ornaments from Chiriqui—The happy idea of the agent—Richness of excavations at Chiriqui—Horrible taste of the Spanish religion—The picture representing purgatory (?)—Superstitious farmers—How to bless the crops!—The population—Uncivilized and ignorant—Dread of foreigners—English steamer—Voyage to Lima—Holy cargo—The little Indian girl with large black eyes—Sour grapes—Good sisters sing canticles—Boat rocks singularly—Canticles interrupted—Effect on the Polish and Peruvian priests—The little Italian Lazarist—What sea-sickness is—Procession at Guatemala during Holy Week—Horrible part of it—Payta—Extraordinary aridity—Misery and filth—The ship's toilet—Effect of arrival on passengers—Little priest becomes playful—M. Fournier's reply to the abbé—In harbour, Callao, no wharf—The Peruvian monitor—Frigate 'La Numancla'—Peruvian soldiers—The sisters delighted—Appearance of Callao—Train about to start—The counterfeit coin—Waiting for gratuity—First, second, and third class cars—Everything finished here—Lima—Description of Lima—Female devotees—Organ played out of tune—Cathedral—The picture of Murillo—What has become of it?—Lima founded by Pizarro, 1535—The old manuscript—Queen Madam Jane to Marquis Francis Pizarro | 401 |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| Streets of Lima, how paved—Filth and winged scavengers—Suggestion to the New York authorities—Houses and architecture—Hotels full—Refugees—Unfortunate moment for concerts—Revolution—Rebels and government—Civil war normal state of Peru—What I understand about political affairs—The outs against the ins—Corruption everywhere—Everybody lives on the government—The government robs her creditors—How the military rob the treasury—How the army is recruited—Arrogance of the military—How they pay their debts—What shall I say of Bolivia?—Cause of war between Bolivia and Peru—President Mezarijo a ferocious beast—Peru and public schools—"God protect us from religious liberty!"—When they construct railroads—Hate innovation, and go backward—Hatred for foreigners—What I said—Peruvian character—The government a military oligarchy—Unbridled corruption—Examination of Spanish American governments—The people who cry out against monarchy!—What they submit to—Battle of Lima —My friend Dupeyron—'Benediction des Poignards'—Letter to Mr. Dupeyron—Awakened by noise of firing—The fighting—Battery of artillery under our windows—What I see from behind the blinds—A ball lodged in the balcony—Horrible tumult—Battle continues—Indian musicians and soldiers—O Christian charity!—Heap of slain—The little gamin—The wounded—The Parisian joker—His care for the wounded—Dupeyron and the women everywhere—Charity, is she not feminine?—The dying Indian and the monk—Palace on fire—Sacking commenced—Those who surrendered assassinated—The revolutionary troops—Screams of the wounded—Whole army of Canzeco defiles—Description of them— No one found willing to assist the wounded—What do you teach in your convents?—French miscreants (!) assist with devotion—Those nice fellows who take the communion | 413 |
