sea. In such musings we skimmed the still waters of the Gulf. As we approached the other side, we found the shore covered with tents, which were for the coast-guard that had been kept here for months to detain caravans of pilgrims coming from Mecca. At ten o'clock the boat touched a long stone pier that stretched out from the land, and we sprang ashore, and were on the soil of Asia. Here our camels were waiting for us. But we did not wait for them, but leaving them to load up the baggage, started off in advance, eager for our first walk on the desert. The fresh, pure air put new life into us, and we strode ahead in high spirits, although here and there the skeletons of camels that lay bleaching in the sun warned us that a desert journey was not without its dangers.
At the distance of a mile or two we came to the Wells of Moses, where there are a number of springs and palmtrees. The place may well bear the name of Moses: for as it is the first oasis on the desert, there can be little doubt that he camped here after his passage of the Red Sea, and here perhaps Miriam sang her song of triumph.
These Fountains of Moses might be made a very pretty spot. But like everything which the Arabs touch, the place is neglected and dirty. Green slime collects on the pools of water, yet underneath the springs bubble up as fresh as they did three thousand years ago, and with a little effort the surface might be kept clear, and the water be always sweet and pure. Even as it is, the palm-trees grow luxuriantly, the very sight of which, and of the pools of water, must be grateful to those coming from the desert. We were in a glow with our walk, and found it very pleasant to rest under the shade, and enjoy the coolness, as a gentle wind was stirring the palms above our heads. Generally parties camp here for the first night, and start fresh in the morning. But we had a day's work before us, and
