fretting the blue deep, and girding each green oasis with a thin zone of silver. Stupendous are the agencies which first uplifted this human home from the deep. If to the 14,000 feet altitude of Mauna Kea be added the unmeasured mass of the mountain below the water-level, downwards to the general bed of the ocean, dim guesses may be hazarded of the entire elevation of a volcanic island, and of the gigantic forces which have built up such chimneys as safety-valves for the pent-up internal fires. Craters, extinct and active, are numerous throughout the islands. In one place a great lake or inland sea has been formed by the filling- up of a vast crater, which had either ceased to be operative, or was extinguished by the rushing in of the ocean. That of the Mountain Haleakala, in Mani, is the largest in the known world; being nine miles in diameter, and about 2000 feet in depth. At the base of the Mani crater some fifteen others are studded about, which, though dwarfed by contact with their gigantic chief, are themselves not inconsiderable hills. All these mouths are now quiescent; and when visited this autumn, the party which ascended the mountain found the huge cup that once had brimmed with fire, filled with fleecy clouds.
The principal member of the group, Hawaii, appears to be the volcanic centre. Earthquakes and eruptions take place at times on the other islands; but the most considerable manifestations of Plutonic energy have been, and still are, found here. Three remarkable peaks rise superior to the mountain-range of Hawaii. Two of them, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, are of nearly equal height — about 14,000 feet. The fires of the former volcano are extinguished, and it is from the sides of the latter that explosions and outpourings of lava principally take place. The mountain is indeed always in labour; and Dante might have gained ideas of penal fires could he have looked down the fearful orifice of Kilauea, a pit situated about 4000 feet up the mountain's side, six miles in circumference, and from 400 to 1000 feet in depth. In the native mythology, this abyss was chosen as the dwelling-place of the terrible goddess Pele. Here, with her attendant demons, she bathed and sported in the sulphurous waves; and here was the scene of Christian courage triumphing over material and supernatural terrors, when the converted chiefess, Kapiolani, in 1825, dared the horrors of the way and the anger of the invaded goddess, and ^Tjtirded the crater, casting from her hands into the liquid lava the sacred berries, as an act of desecration. Since that time many persons have visited the scene, and the writer’s brother has also made a descent into the crater.
For nearly three years the volcano has been in a state of more than usual activity. Rivers of burning lava have rolled downwards from the brimming cup. The streams have crept through dark silent forests, withering and burning the hard ko-trees and the fragrant young sapan-wood. They have poured themselves into deep pits, and over perpendicular palisy or precipices; past ruined Jmawy or idol -temples; have destroyed the native kalo grounds, and rendered villages uninhabitable; finally, they have held their downward way through grassy valleys even to the shore, till, in deadly struggle with the waves, their course has been stayed, but not till the temperature of the sea has been sufficiently raised to destroy great quantities of fish.
On the 23rd of January last, a great eruption commenced on Mauna Loa. The lava took a northerly direction, rounded the side of another mountain, and by the 28th had debouched over the plateau, and run some distance into the sea, destroying in its way a small fishing village. An interruption of the trade-wind took place about the same time, having some occult connection, probably, with the volcanic action. Sight-seers, of course, immediately started for the spot. They were rewarded by a spectacle of indescribable grandeur. The fire rose 250 feet above the mouth of the crater, sometimes taking the form of a cone of flame, at others that of a jet defeu , before which all artificial pyrotechnics would have to “pale their ineffectual fires.” The descending lava presented a head of fire 200 rods in width, curving over the mountain sides like a blood-red snake, and occasionally leaping sheer down a precipice.
On the 9th of February, a party left the college in Honolulu for the purpose of ascending to the crater. An unfortunate accident occurred to one of the number. In passing through the forest, a young man fell into one of the deep pits which exist there, probably extinct craters, the mouths of which are often concealed by trailing and orchidaceous plants. His fall was heard, and the sufferer was recovered and carried to a place where medical aid could be obtained. His spine, however, had been injured below the neck, and after lingering a few days he died.
On the 15th, Captain Montresor in H.M.’s Ship Calypso, having invited the king and his suite to accompany him, proceeded to Hawaii to observe the phenomena of the eruption. Among the party was the British Consul-General and Commissioner in the Islands, Mr. Toup Nicolas, intelligence of whose untimely death was received by the last mail. On the 19th, they landed at Kaawaloa, or Cook’s Bay, and found with surprise that the scene of the great navigator’s death was unmarked by any durable monument. A decaying stump of a cocoa-nut tree indicates the exact spot where he fell, and a few stones piled on a hill at a distance seem placed there for their own safety, or to prove an alibi. On returning to Honolulu, Mr. Nicolas set himself to promote the erection of a more fitting and permanent trophy, and was engaged in procuring subscriptions for the purpose when the failure of his health made it necessary for him to leave the islands.
In the account we proceed to give of the volcano the observations made in the Calypso expedition, and those by another exploring party, are combined. Seen from afar at sea and at night, the first view of the eruption had the appearance of a star, with two rays of light depending — a comet, in fact, — hanging two -thirds up the mountain side.
The Calypso’s party commenced their ascent, and passing through a wood seven miles in breadth, emerged on a plateau about 5000 feet above the
sea level, affording a good site for observation.